This is the fourth series in the rubric, in which we observe the formation of the style of the great women of the past and the present!

I love Chanel! True, I still haven’t bought a single bag of this brand :-) Apparently, I’m saving this pleasant moment and choosing the right mood:) But in my wardrobe there are several tweed jackets from Chanel, which, I hope, will be worn by my granddaughters and great-granddaughters!

As usual, first we read about the heroine, and then we look at how I adapted her style to my wardrobe.

Then write on Insta about your impressions, your opinion and support is very important to me :-)

History of Coco Chanel

House of Chanel is the most famous name in the fashion world of the 20th century. The epitome of luxury, style and elegance. Could young Gabrielle Chanel have thought that she would achieve such a stunning success? Indeed, at the dawn of her career, the founder of a cult brand could not boast of wealth, power, or belonging to high society.

Coco Chanel changed the attitude to women's clothing, rewrote the rules haute couture in your own way. And most of her "tricks" formed the basis of the style and are relevant to this day.

Many facts from the biography of Coco Chanel are shrouded in mystery and are already part of fashionable mythology.

Gabrielle Boner Chanel was born in 1883 in the French town of Saumur. Her mother died when the girl was twelve, and her father, in order to somehow make ends meet, was forced to send the children to a Catholic orphanage and was like that. Until adulthood, Gabrielle was raised by nuns.

In fact, nothing is known for certain about the childhood and youth of the young Chanel. At the beginning of the 20th century, few people were interested in the life of the poor, so no documents about Gabriel were preserved. Some sources claim that she was taught the art of sewing by her aunt, with whom she stayed every summer, according to other sources, Gabrielle was engaged in needlework in a shelter with nuns.

When Gabrielle turned eighteen, she moved to the nearby town of Moulin, where she got a job in a lingerie store. In her free time, Chanel worked part-time in a cafe, where she sang the song “Who saw Coco at the Trocadero?” and "Ko Ko Ri Ko". From here, later, the legendary name Coco originates. Many regulars called her that - baby Coco.

During her failed musical career, young Coco meets wealthy textile heir Etienne Balsan. The bourgeois is fascinated by a charismatic girl. Their romance is developing rapidly, and Koko moves to Vacation home Balsana in the status of his kept mistress. It was then that Chanel begins to get involved in the creation of hats, and Etienne encourages this hobby, compensating for all expenses so that her lover does not get bored during his absence.

High society, not without a scratch, accepts young Gabrielle into its ranks. She is well aware of her position and origin, but does not yet have enough funds to feel independent.

Life takes a new turn when, at one of the parties, Chanel meets Etienne's friend, Arthur Capel (friends call him Boy).

Falling head over heels in love with Boy, Gabriel moves from his country mansion to Capel's bachelor pad in Paris, where he begins making hats and trying to sell them. The business is gaining momentum, and a year later, Chanel (not without the financial help of Boy) opens her first tailoring studio with the bold name "Chanel Fashion".

In those days, men ruled the fashion world, dressing women in tight corsets, tons of lace and feathers. Coco Chanel pokes fun at this approach, stating that "Designers forget what's underneath their dresses." living woman flesh and blood." Uncompromising Koko thinks seriously about the fact that women's clothing can and should be not only beautiful, but also comfortable.

In 1913, Chanel moved to the resort town of Deauville, where he opened another clothing store. Gabriel starts working on his first collection. Koko understands that emancipation has gone quite far and is looking for a logical way out. Her task is to help women look elegant, regardless of their position.

By the way, Koko herself did not know how to cut, creating her outfits directly on the model, applying and pinning the fabric until it acquired the desired shape.

In 1914 the world was shaken by the First World War. Men go to the front, and wealthy families move away from the center of events to coastal cities. Women are forced to refuse servants and dress themselves. Ironically, it is these unfortunate events that give a powerful impetus to the Chanel case.

Inspired by military uniforms, Koko discovers a new material - jersey - thin knitwear, which is usually used for sewing linings for jackets. Such material drapes well, while being very cheap. What you need in wartime.

Women need simplicity and convenience, and Chanel's house gives them that simple elegance. Koko's outfits are diametrically different from those that women are used to, but they definitely like them. By the end of the war, Coco Chanel clothes turned into a very successful business, personifying the very “luxury of simplicity”.

The glory of Coco Chanel spreads at the speed of light throughout France. Laconic and practical things from Chanel are the dream of any woman.

In 1919, Boy Capel dies in a car accident. Another terrible event in the life of Chanel again gives vent to her work. Coco brings the little black dress to the fashion world. Perhaps if this tragedy had not happened, she would not have experimented with black fabric at all.

Chanel's first little black dress was made from flowy fabric. It was long-sleeved and revolutionary below the knee length. Mrs. Koko thought that it makes no sense to make it shorter, since not every lady can boast of the beauty of this part of the body :-)

Koko could not officially wear mourning, since she was not Capel's wife, but without expecting it herself, she dressed all of France in mourning for the Boy.

In the summer of 1920, Coco meets a Russian emigrant, Prince Dmitry Pavlovich. Their romance does not last long, but leaves an indelible imprint on the activities of the fashion house. At this time, Chanel meets Dmitry's friend, the outstanding perfumer Ernest Bo. The meeting becomes a cult for both. After a year of collaboration, Chanel releases her famous fragrance "No. 5".

Ernest created "a perfume for women that smells like a woman herself." It was the first perfume in the world of 80 components that did not repeat the smell of a single flower, as was previously customary. The designers enclosed the golden liquid in a rectangular glass bottle with a laconic label, which was also a kind of innovation - before that, the bottles had always had a bizarre shape. Their success has outlived its creators - until now, Chanel No. 5 perfumes are the best-selling on the planet.

In the same year, Coco Chanel began to work on the creation of jewelry, boldly mixing gems with artificial ones.

In the mid-20s, Coco begins dating the English Duke of Westminster. Chanel moves in the circles of the English aristocracy, often visiting the UK and Scotland. And among the new acquaintances of Koko even such personalities as Winston Churchill himself appear.

From the Scots, Chanel adopts a love for tweed, which he later embodies in no less iconic clothes, like all his previous ideas. And among the British, Coco is imbued with a love for sweaters and shows women that jewelry can be worn even over a sweater, which no one has done before.

The Chanel collections of that time are full of tweeds, jockey outfits, sports coats and vests. As Coco herself said: "I took English masculinity and made it feminine."

The affair with the duke lasted 14 years and ended by the end of the 30s. By that time, Koko was at the peak of her career. But the world is again overshadowed by the news of the war. In 1939, Chanel was forced to close her factories.

At the same time, Koko is carried away by an employee of the German embassy, ​​Hans Gunther von Dinklage, who, after the liberation of Paris, will play a cruel joke with her. Allegedly for complicity with the Nazis, she is arrested, but released the same evening. According to legend, all charges were dropped from Koko, thanks to her old friend Winston Churchill, who personally asked for her. The only condition that grants her freedom is the immediate departure from France.

Koko leaves her homeland and goes to Switzerland for 10 years. During this time, the fashion world is undergoing drastic changes. Men are back in power. Dior with his New Look and meters of fabric, Balmain with brocade and lace. Everything that Coco despised so much shines on the fashionable Olympus with renewed vigor.

Dior Balmain

1953 Chanel returns to Paris to take revenge. A new generation of fashionistas has matured, who only know about her as a perfume creator.

Chanel's first collection failed miserably. Society has not yet forgiven her after the war. French journalists did not understand the designer's laconic outfits, and headlines flaunt in all newspapers that "Chanel did not offer anything new." But that was her secret - conciseness, elegance and functionality.

It took Mademoiselle Chanel only a year to rehabilitate herself. She has already taken her second post-war collection to be shown across the ocean - to America. Local fashionistas gave her a standing ovation.

It was new era tweed suits, a little black dress and massive jewelry. The concept of "Chanel style" has forever taken its place of honor in fashion terminology. This style implied that the suit should be not only elegant, but also comfortable. All the buttons on it were fastened, and did not serve as an ornament, there were pockets on the skirt where a business woman could hide cigarettes, and the shoes were certainly low-heeled, since you couldn’t run far in high stilettos.

And another year later, in 1955, Chanel gave the fashion world her iconic 2/55 handbag on a chain, thereby freeing the hands of millions of women.

Coco Chanel has died at the age of 88. Until her death, she continued to develop collections of her own brand and collaborate with other companies. She left quietly and alone after a long day at work in her suite at the Ritz.

Koko had no heirs, she never married and had no family. She sacrificed all this for the sake of her dream, going a long way from blatant poverty to abundance and prosperity. The name of Mademoiselle Chanel is forever inscribed in the world history of fashion. She created a true empire, becoming a trendsetter for several generations.

Coco Chanel style in a modern interpretation

Tweed, jersey with piping, quilted handbag, beret, shoes with a dark cape - the standard set for my trip to Paris. Where am I now, by the way, and I am :)

These things are always in my wardrobe, so the preparation for the photo shoot took a couple of minutes. Unlike the fifth heroine, whose style is, to put it mildly, atypical for me!

So, to be continued :-)

Modern fashion is multifaceted and diverse, so women of fashion get a lot of room for imagination when choosing clothes. But there are things that have not gone out of fashion for several decades.

way good style and impeccable elegance is a suit in the style of Chanel. Such a thing will successfully complement a business or casual wardrobe, in addition, such an elegant suit will be appropriate at any celebration.

Now it is difficult to imagine a basic women's wardrobe, without such a thing as a skirt suit and. Meanwhile, for centuries, women have worn very uncomfortable clothes with corsets and long skirts. And only in the 20th century did women finally get freedom in choosing clothes.

One of the most famous "revolutionaries" in the field of fashion, of course, was Coco Chanel. Thanks to her efforts, women radically changed their wardrobe, they began to wear comfortable and stylish clothes, including trousers, which at that time was considered something incredible.

The first fashion collection was presented to the public in 1913, the main fabric for tailoring was jersey. Then Mademoiselle "introduced" the ladies of the whole world to such a wonderful fabric as tweed. Although, it should be noted that the first tweed collections were not very successful. This fabric made a real sensation much later, when already 70-year-old Chanel presented fashionistas with a tweed suit consisting of a straight skirt and a jacket.

Despite the fact that Mademoiselle was French and worked in Paris, at first her collections were appreciated by residents of Great Britain and the USA. And only then all the charm of stylish and elegant clothes was appreciated by compatriots.

After the death of the great designer, the Chanel trademark continued to exist. And today it is one of the most famous brands that produce luxury goods.

Not every fashionista can buy a real Chanel suit, as clothing prices are high. But many democratic clothing brands produce suits "in the style of Chanel." Their main differences are elegance, style and grace.

Classic

The costumes are presented in a variety of models. Still popular is from Chanel, consisting of two elements - a skirt and a jacket.

There are options for jackets with patch pockets or with welt, but made diagonally. There are long and short versions.

You can also see a suit with a one-button closure on the back, such models have a straight silhouette and a shortened length.

They can have shortened sleeves - to the elbow or even shorter. Such suits are worn without a blouse, tightly buttoned.

The shape of the skirt can also be slightly modified. In addition to straight skirts, there are narrower ones, less often you can see a year-style skirt.

No less popular option - in the style of Chanel. Pants in such a tandem are used straight or flared. There are also youth options - with cropped tight trousers.

Who will suit?

Many mistakenly believe that Chanel's style is exclusively for adulthood. In fact, costumes are perfect for any girl, the main thing is to choose the right model.

Young women should pay attention to suits with trousers and. You can also wear a set with a skirt, but it is better to choose the option with a fitted jacket. The skirt can be shorter than in the classic version, straight or trapezoidal.

In addition, young girls can "break" the costume and wear elements of it with other things. For example, you can wear jeans, this combination looks very original and fits perfectly into the youth style.

Mature ladies will perfectly fit the classics. A classic suit will make you look emphatically elegant.

They can also afford a Chanel-style suit, but not every style will suit them. When choosing a model for overweight women, it is worth abandoning tweed and boucle fabric models, as they add volume due to their loose texture. Models with patch pockets will not fit.

The best option for a jacket is a straight model without a fastener and a triangular neckline. Classic jackets have a round neckline, but this option shortens the neck, so they are best avoided.

Choose a jacket either shortened (above the hip line) or, on the contrary, elongated. Make sure that the top of the ensemble does not end at the level of the widest place of the figure.

The lower part of the set can be represented by both a skirt and trousers. But the model must be straight. A pencil skirt and skinny pants are absolutely not suitable.

When would it be appropriate?

Where can you wear a Chanel suit? These clothes fit perfectly into a business wardrobe, so you can buy a suit for work.

In addition, the model will look great at any social and formal events held during the daytime. Ladies aged 40+ will look especially elegant in this outfit.

In everyday life, many fashionistas wear a suit, combining its parts with other things. This allows you to slightly "reduce the degree" of the solemnity and formality of the thing.

fabrics

The classic version of the suit is made of tweed or jersey, but other fabrics can be used. Depends on the type of material appearance suit, so you need to carefully consider the selection of fabrics.

Tweed

Woolen fibers are used to produce tweed, but modern manufacturers often add a small amount of synthetics to natural raw materials. Such additives improve the performance of the fabric, it becomes more rigid, so it keeps its shape perfectly and does not wrinkle.

A characteristic feature of the fabric is the herringbone pattern., it is formed due to a special way of weaving threads. The traditional colors of tweed fabrics are black, brown or gray-green.

Decorates a tweed suit, fringe, which is obtained by unraveling the weaving of the fabric. There are also models trimmed around the edge with contrasting braid.

Jersey

The first costumes presented by Mademoiselle Chanel were made of jersey. At that time, the fabric was a novelty, it began to be produced at the beginning of the 20th century. This material is not woven, but knitted, that is, in fact, it is a knitted fabric. The material stretches well, but if it is made of natural raw materials (wool), then it does not differ in elasticity. That is, the fabric can stretch, but not restore its original shape.

The jersey is virtually wrinkle-free, so the suit will look great even if you've been wearing it all day. The fabric is quite light, but has good thermal insulation properties.

Currently, not only wool is used for the production of jersey, but also other types of fibers. Therefore, before buying a thing, be sure to look at the composition of the label.

Boucle

The suits are made of boucle and look stylish. This is a plain weave fabric of textured threads. This type of thread is distinguished by the fact that there are thickenings and nodules on its surface, so the surface of the fabric is not smooth, but has a peculiar texture.

Boucle is made from wool yarn with the addition of synthetic raw materials, but there are also lighter fabric options, for example, based on cotton. Thanks to the loose weave, the fabric is soft and light. In addition, the fabric has a certain degree of elasticity, which makes products made from it comfortable to wear.

knitted

The knitted version of the suit with a Chanel-style skirt is also quite popular. In order for such a product to keep its shape, it is usually made on a lining.

For knitting can be used different types yarn. The most popular yarn option is wool, that is, the suit will turn out to be quite warm. If you knit products from angora, then the costume will turn out to be very delicate with a soft pile. But, of course, this version of clothing is not suitable for a strict office style, knitted items fit better into a casual style.

Colors

The classic color of a suit from Chanel is a combination of black and white. It can be a black suit with snow-white trim, or a white jacket with a skirt trimmed with black braid.

In addition, the classics of the genre include textured patterns obtained by interlacing fabric threads, that is, the herringbone pattern on tweed or the salt and pepper pattern on boucle fabric.

The only print option that is used in the manufacture of the classic version of the costume is the “chicken foot” check (pie de bullet).

In this pattern, the cell has a non-standard shape - with an elongated corner. The pattern is made in black and white, but the inlay for decoration can be used in black and white.

In a modern version, Chanel-style suits are also produced in other colors. It looks very gentle and feminine or the blue version with white trim. More elegant option. It can be made of plain fabric or in a white and red checkered. The most restrained and neutral can be called. Such a model will look especially good in summer and warm autumn.

With what to combine?

To make the image stylish, one suit is not enough. You need to choose the right accessories and accessories for it.

("little black dress").

According to Forbes magazine, the Chanel brand is now jointly owned by Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, who are great-grandchildren of Chanel's early (1924) partner Pierre Wertheimer.

Brand History: Era Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, née Gabrielle Boner Chanel, was born in 1883 in the town of Saumur in the center of France. From 1985 to 1900, the girl lived in an orphanage, where her father gave her after the death of her mother. Then, until 1902, Gabrielle was brought up by nuns, who taught her how to sew. Subsequently, she worked at the Au Sans Pareil hosiery store in Moulins.

During the years of her singing career, Gabrielle met the influential French aristocrat Etienne Balzan. It was he who helped Koko open his first store.

• 1909-1920: Beginnings and first recognition

In 1909, in the apartment of Étienne Balzan, Gabrielle Chanel opened a small shop that became the initial step towards one of the world's greatest fashion empires. Meeting place of the most respected representatives of the French elite, hunters for new novels, mistresses and husbands - Balzan's apartment became the perfect place to introduce into high society new fashion on the clothes that Chanel made in her small atelier. Then the first thing that brought Coco popularity and success was neat hats. They were radically different from those richly feathered models that the couturier made fun of, creating casual and minimalist headdresses for women.

At the same time, Chanel had a relationship with the Englishman Arthur Capel, a member of the Balzan men's club. He saw Coco as a promising businesswoman, and in 1910 he helped to acquire space in a house on rue Cambon in Paris. However, the house already housed a clothing store, so Chanel was not allowed to set up a dressmaking atelier there. Soon, Coco opened her first store at this place, specializing in the sale of hats.

Chanel boutiques opened in 1913 French cities Deauville and Biarritz. In both stores, the designer presented her first collection of sportswear for women.

Coco simply hated the style of those ladies who came to resort towns and dressed up in ridiculous and uncomfortable things in her opinion. So the designs of Chanel's wardrobe items were simple and devoid of excessive luxury.

During World War II, another Chanel store opened on the Rue Cambonne in Paris. It was located right in front of the Ritz Hotel. They sold flannel, straight, jackets, long jersey sweaters and blouses.

Coco bought jersey fabric, first of all, because of its cheapness, because in the first years of her design career, the financial situation of the fashionista was extremely unstable. However, the soft material, which was used mainly for lining clothes, was great for Chanel's simple cuts.

In 1915, the fame of Chanel spread throughout France. Her clothes, due to their conciseness and practicality, have become incredibly popular with women. In 1915 and 1917, the magazine noted that the name Chanel was on every woman's shopping list. The designer's boutique on Rue Cambon at that time offered ladies simple casual ensembles "+" and black evening dresses, embroidered or decorated with tulle.

By the 1920s, Chanel had already gained a reputation as an extremely picky and uncompromising couturier. Following the trends of her time, she designed a dress embroidered with beads. Also, the ensemble of two or three items proposed by her became a model of female style and is still so. It was introduced as a "form for the afternoon and evening" as early as 1915.

• Chanel No. 5: the creation of a legendary fragrance

In 1921, Coco Chanel introduced the first women's perfume - Chanel No. 5 perfume. The history of the creation of this perfume is closely connected with the relationship between Coco and the Great Russian Prince Dmitry Pavlovich Romanov.

Chanel and the prince met in Biarritz in 1920 and spent the next year together. It was then that Dmitry Pavlovich presented his passion to the perfumer of the Romanov family - Ernest Bo, who, at the request of the milliner, helped her in creating her own perfume. As conceived by Coco, the fragrance was to embody the smell of a woman entirely. In addition, she wanted the composition to include more different essences, and not just one or two, as in the perfumes of those times.

Ernest Bo worked on the perfume for many months, mixing many components. At one of the meetings with Koko, he showed her several versions of the fragrances he had created. Chanel chose the fifth bottle in a row, and, in addition, Chanel's favorite number was also 5. The designer decided to dwell on this mixture of essences and called her first perfume Chanel No. 5.

The composition of the fragrance consisted of 80 ingredients, including ylang-ylang from the Comoros, orange blossom, jasmine from the fields of Grasse, May rose, sandalwood, bourbon vetiver and aldehydes - artificial components, the concentration of which in Chanel perfume was a record for those years. According to legend, when creating the fragrance, Beau accidentally overdosed on aldehydes in the fragrance, but that is why Chanel liked the smell so much. And the couturier was not mistaken in her choice, because the perfume became a hit. In addition, Chanel No. 5 to this day are timeless classics, the standard of elegance and one of the most exquisite women's fragrances according to perfumers.

Toilet perfume Chanel No. 5 based on the original was created in 1986 by the perfumer of the Fashion House Jacques Polge.

• Mid to late 1920s

The founder of the successful French department stores Galeries Lafayette introduced Coco Chanel to her future partner Pierre Wertheimer. Bader himself was already a business partner of Chanel and owned 20% of the Chanel perfume label. Wertheimer became the owner of 70% of the enterprise, while Koko herself retained a modest 10%.

Coco was forced to keep her fashion business separate from her perfume business.

In 1924, Chanel introduced her first line of jewelry, consisting of two pairs of pearl earrings: black and white. In addition to her success with Haute Couture, Coco has expanded the business and diversified the brand and her own legend more expansive and multifaceted.

In 1925, under the Chanel brand, a women's was introduced, in 1926 - a little black dress and tweed, inspired by trips to Scotland. Chanel soon opened her own near the Louvre.

Due to the success of the Chanel perfume line, Coco was increasingly unhappy with the fact that she had only 10 percent of the profits from her own brand of perfume. On this basis, her relationship with partners deteriorated significantly.

In an attempt to increase her percentage of the profits, Chanel hired a lawyer to renegotiate the terms of the partnership with Wertheimer, but this process ultimately came to nothing.

• Chanel in the 1930s-1950s

In 1932, the premiere of the Chanel jewelry exhibition dedicated to diamonds took place. Some of the necklaces that were presented on it, again appeared before the public in 1993. Among them are the famous necklaces "Comet" and "Fountain".

With the advent of the 30s, evening dresses from Chanel acquired a more feminine style and became elongated. Dresses from the summer collections were distinguished by bright contrasting colors, and the couturier used crystal and silver straps as decor. In 1937, Chanel first developed a clothing line for petite women.

In 1940, when France fell under the control of Nazi Germany, Chanel's partner Pierre Wertheimer fled with his family to the United States. This allowed Coco to take full control of the brand's perfume production. At this time, the famous scandal occurred with the couturier, caused by her connection with the Nazi officer Hans Günther von Dinklage. Chanel was accused of complicity with the Nazis, and immediately after the liberation of France was taken into custody. Important role Winston Churchill played in the release of Coco from custody. However, these events left a heavy imprint on the personality and reputation of the designer, which forced Chanel to flee to Switzerland at the end of the Second World War.

After the war, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and naturally intended to regain control of the holdings owned by his family. To spite him, Coco Chanel created her own collection of perfumes and put them on sale. Wertheimer decided to resolve the conflict without legal proceedings. He settled with Koko, paying her $400,000, a 2 percent royalty, and giving her limited rights to sell her own perfume in Switzerland. Having entered into an agreement, Chanel stopped creating perfumes and sold the partner the full right to produce them under the name Chanel, for which she began to receive a monthly stipend from Wertheimer. With this scholarship, Koko and her German beau could support themselves.

• Return of Chanel: 1950s-1970s

Chanel returned to Paris in 1953. Then the fashionable ball was already ruled by its feminine. Koko had to accept that fashion and the fashion market had changed, and she had to adapt to this evolution. Chanel needed to return to the big stage and make herself known in areas such as Haute Couture, Pret-a-Porter, jewelry and perfumery.

The couturier swallowed her pride and turned to old partner Pierre Wertheimer for help, who could provide legal and financial support for Coco herself and her brand. At the same time, he was busy trying to get all the rights to release products under the name Chanel. However, having decided to resume cooperation with Chanel, Wertheimer did not lose. The revived union again paid off with a whole list of benefits: the label regained the title of one of the most prestigious in the fashion market, the unconditional style of Chanel was accepted with a bang.

In addition, in 1953, Coco collaborated with Robert Goossens, a well-known jeweler of the time, who developed an explosive line of jewelry that reflected Chanel's iconic style. The release of branded tweed suits, consisting of a jacket and embellished with threads of black and white pearls, was also resumed.

In February 1955, quilted leather Chanel bags were introduced on metal chains in gold or silver. Their release date - 2/55 - became the internal name of the line, which became legendary. Like the brand's tweed suits, these bags have not gone out of fashion.

Throughout the fifties of the twentieth century, the great taste of Coco Chanel continued to pave the way for her success and worldwide recognition in the fashion field. Another breakthrough was Chanel's first men's fragrance, Pour Monsieur. It was also released under the name "A Gentleman's Cologne" ("Gentleman's Fragrance") and became number one among all men's fragrances.

Chanel's spring 1957 collection won the Fashion Oscars at the Fashion Awards in Dallas. In the meantime, Wertheimer bought from Bader his 20% stake in Chanel perfumes, raising his family's total stake to 90%. In 1965, the son of Pierre Wertheimer, Jacques, began to manage this share.

• Death of a legend: Chanel after Coco

On January 10, 1971, Gabrielle Coco Chanel died at the age of 87. Until her death, she continued to develop her own brand collections and collaborate with other companies. For example, from 1966 to 1969, the couturier designed uniforms for the flight attendants of one of the most luxurious and prestigious Greek airlines, Olympic Airways. Before Chanel, he was only honored with such an honor.

After Coco's death, Yvonne Dudel, Jean Quezubon and Philippe Guibourge were appointed Chanel leaders. After some time, the entire Fashion House was bought by Jacques Wertheimer. However, critics stated that during the entire time he was in charge of the label, he never paid enough attention to him, as he was more passionate about horse breeding.

In 1978, the Chanel brand launched Cristalle eau de toilette, created during Coco's lifetime. The same year was marked by the launch of a ready-to-wear line and the distribution of Chanel accessories around the world.

Chanel under Karl Lagerfeld

In the 1980s, more than 40 brand boutiques were opened around the world. By the end of the decade, these boutiques were selling luxury items such as $200 an ounce perfume, $225 ballerinas, $11,000 dresses, and $2,000 leather handbags. The rights to Chanel perfume belonged only to the brand itself and were not shared by other distributors.

In 1983, a German designer was appointed to the position of chief designer of the Chanel Fashion House. He became responsible for the design of all collections, while other designers were engaged in preserving the classic style of the House and maintaining its legend. Lagerfeld modified the brand's style, moving away from the old Chanel lines for new short strokes and exciting designs.

The release in 1984 of the new fragrance Coco by Chanel, named after the founder of the Fashion House, supported the success of the brand in the perfume market. Chanel marketers say:

“We release new fragrances every 10 years, and not every three minutes, as other manufacturers do. We do not mislead customers and do not confuse them, putting them before a choice. They know what to expect from Chanel. That is why they come back to us again and again, at any age.”

In 1987, the House of Chanel presented the first "Premiere".

At the end of the decade, the company's offices moved to New York.

• 1990s

In the 1990s, the company became a leader in fragrances and marketing. Huge investments allowed to significantly increase income. The success brought the Wertheimer family about $5 billion in profits. The brand's product lines, such as watches (which cost an average of $7,000 per piece), high-quality shoes, jewelry, and cosmetics, have been significantly expanded.

In 1996, the women's fragrance Chanel Allure was released, as a result of the success of which in 1998 the brand presented its masculine version - Allure Homme. Even greater success awaited the company after the purchase of Eres, a swimwear and beachwear label. In 1999, a skin care line was launchedChaneland then the first garment is presented. In the same year, under a license agreement with Luxottica, the brand introduced the Chanel line and frames.

• Chanel from the 2000s to the present day

During these years, the chairman of Chanel was Alain Wertheimer. Francoise Montaigne was the CEO and President of the Fashion House.

In 2000, the first from Chanel, the J12, were launched.

In 2001, the brand presented a small line of men's clothing, which became part of one of the shows and was sold in the brand's flagship boutiques.

Chance was released in 2002. The house of Chanel also founded the Pataffection company, which included five multi-purpose ateliers:

• Desrue, which makes jewelry;
• Lemarie, working with feathers and camellias;
• Lesage, engaged in embroidery;
• massaro, shoe studio;
• Michel, which makes women's hats.

Pret-a-Porter collections were developed by the chief designer of the House - Karl Lagerfeld. They are traditionally presented every December.

In 2002, Chanel continued to increase its sales in the US. So, by December, there were already 25 brand boutiques in the United States. In the same year, a rumor was circulated about a possible merger between Chanel and one of the largest luxury goods manufacturers -. These data gave rise to a lot of anxiety, because such a merger could give rise to the largest holding company - a rival to the famous one. Perhaps that is why the merger was never destined to take place.

To meet the wishes of younger buyers, in 2003, Chanel presents the fragrance Coco Mademoiselle and the line of youth clothes B-C wear. In the same year, Chanel Haute Couture is experiencing such a surge in popularity that the brand opens a second boutique on Cambon Street in Paris. Looking to expand into the Asian market, Chanel is opening a 2,400-square-meter boutique in Hong Kong and is also building a $50 million boutique in Ginza, Tokyo, Japan.

Influence on world fashion

Coco Chanel revolutionized the fashion world by introducing loose suits and long, straight dresses to replace traditional corsets. The couturier introduced many elements of classic men's fashion into women's clothing. Her simple lines led to the popularity of the boyish build of the female body, the rejection of and excessive luxury in a suit. Coco Chanel clothes also gave women more comfort in everyday life, allowing them to be more active.

Coco made jersey fabric fashionable, and her signature tweed suits became a symbol of fashion in the 20s and timeless classics in the women's wardrobe.

Quilted chain bags, boxy jackets and pearl necklaces are also some of the iconic luxury items from Chanel.

Chanel logo and fakes

The Chanel trademark consists of two letters "C" intertwined with each other, one of which is depicted in its original form, and the other is its mirror image. This logo was first introduced in 1925 on a bottle of Chanel No. 5 fragrance. Many believe that the symbol of good luck, depicted by Vrubel, served as its prototype. According to another version, the two letters "C" are the initials of Coco Chanel.

The company is currently fighting the illegal use of its logo on counterfeit products. According to Chanel representatives, the largest number of fake handbags are produced in China and Vietnam. Since 1990, all genuine Chanel bags have been serialized.

Chanel stores around the world

Today, there are about 310 Chanel brand boutiques in the world: 94 of them are located in Asia, 70 are located in Europe, 10 are in the Middle East, 128 are in North America, 2 - in South America, 6 - in Oceania.

Chanel stores can be located in prestigious areas and shopping malls, departments of large department stores, airport buildings.

Official site: www.chanel.com

A legendary fashion designer, a woman who revolutionized fashion, bold, stylish and desirable - this is all about Coco Chanel. Once she promised to dress women elegantly and simply, so that the main accessory would be sophistication, and the clothes would not expose, but emphasize the beauty of the body. Coco kept her promise, her rules made a splash in society in the first half of the 20th century, and Coco Chanel's style is still considered relevant. This is what is considered to be a model of good taste, this is what is called the capacious word "classic".

Clothing in the style of Coco Chanel is not only fashionable, but also practical, allowing a woman to feel well-groomed, beautiful and elegant. Only thanks to the fashion designer, the fair sex can wear short haircuts, boldly put on vests and trouser suits and use pearls instead of jewelry and at the same time look unusually feminine and attractive.

Rule number 1. Skirts, dresses without frills

Clothes of a simple cut, laconic colors - that's what Coco offered fashionistas. “The more expensive the clothes, the poorer they look,” Chanel proclaimed and created a pencil skirt that was just below the knee. This style emphasizes a thin waist, a soft curve of the hips, chiseled calves, hiding the knees from immodest glances. A pencil skirt is combined only with one-color or two-color shoes with high, but certainly comfortable heels.

Appeared in contrast to the lush and bright Coco created it "to develop the taste" of her contemporaries. The little black dress has become a classic, relevant for any age, skin type and hair color. It will emphasize the freshness of a young beauty and the elegance of an adult woman. According to Koko, the black color gives mystery, which means it can restore youth, in addition, such an outfit cannot be spoiled by ineptly selected accessories.

The style of Coco Chanel in everyday dresses was expressed mainly in such styles as sheaths or models with a simple, fitted top and full skirt. All of them are perfectly combined with a string of pearls on the neck or wrist. Black / white at one time became the hallmark of the Chanel house, as well as a hallmark of her own style. Minimalism, inconsistency, brightness in the absence of color - the main idea of ​​the fashion designer. Clothing should emphasize the charm of its owner, and not dominate the image.

Rule number 2. Perfect pants

Rebel Chanel first invited ladies to go out in trousers, although she herself almost never wore them. The fashion designer created women's trousers with straight, shortened, but always covering the knees. At the premiere, they were presented with a sweater. Trouser suits in the style of Coco Chanel are classic, most comfortable and functional models. The silhouette in this case is looser, with patch pockets, zippers and buttons.

Rule number 3. Jacket and jacket

Clothing should not restrict movement. This rule corresponds to a jacket, the model of which is made just below the waist. Distinctive features style - narrow sleeves and no collar. Such a jacket may either have no buttons at all, or be fastened with small fasteners of the same tone as the fabric. This piece of clothing should be worn with a simple, preferably silk blouse in white or pastel color.

A Coco Chanel-style jacket is made only from thin fabrics, which allows you to beautifully beat the female silhouette. Colors in no case should be bright and flashy. Preference is given to shades of blue, gray and brown. If you need to create it is acceptable to use red.

Jackets were brought into fashion by Coco back in the 30s of the last century, and they still remain relevant due to their simplicity and elegance. The fashion designer considered such a thing to be basic, allowing the lady to feel noble and comfortable at the same time. A Coco Chanel-style jacket is designed for discreetly sophisticated ensembles, and will also look harmonious even with jeans. For this element of the wardrobe, the following nuances are characteristic:

• three-quarter length sleeves;
• raw edge;
• main colors of jackets: white, black, sky blue, pale pink, beige, red.

Rule number 4. Handbag 2.55

Traditional clutch bags are alien to Coco's style. Under the number 2.55, which means "February 1955", a handbag with a shoulder strap is "encrypted". This accessory is not uncommon these days, but it matches Coco's style if the following conditions are met:

• monophonic, dim color;
• without large shiny details (except for the logo);
• strap in the form of intertwined chains;
• medium size, classic rectangular shape;
• secret pocket for storing money;
• a secret rounded pocket, which is called the “Mona Lisa smile”, the main purpose of which is to store love notes;
• clasp-square "Mademoiselle".

Today, the Coco Chanel style is used to create handbags from a wide variety of materials, such as cotton, velor, silk and even denim. You can find modern models, decorated with rhinestones and sequins. Such a handbag can save literally any boring look, giving it delicacy. An excellent option would be powder shades that look really stylish in the evening and during the day.

Rule number 5. Perfume

"Perfume that smells like a woman herself" - this is how the fashion designer called the legendary "Chanel No. 5", an important touch to the image of sophisticated elegance. A straight bottle with a black CHANEL lettering on the outside, a tart fragrance with hints of lily of the valley inside...

What do you wear at night? Marilyn Monroe was once asked.

Only 5 drops of Chanel, the beauty answered.

Rule number 6. Bijouterie, jewelry

Koko had a passion for accessories, but insisted on their thoughtful and limited use. Costume jewelry is incompatible with jewelry. It is unacceptable to use several varieties of stones or metals in the image. The Coco Chanel woman looks elegant thanks to the simple cut of the dress, embellished with a white collar, artificial flower or jewelry. It was proposed to simply change accessories, turning the dress from everyday into evening and elegant.

Rule number 7. Haircut

The combination of masculine and feminine is the secret of attractiveness from Coco, who was a fan of short boyish haircuts. But what really distinguishes a lady from a boy is her carefully groomed, impeccably styled hair. The style allows women to wear "boyish" hairstyles such as kare, bob, page.

Modern look from the house "Chanel"

A century later, the image created by Chanel was democratized. More color has appeared here, models of dresses and skirts open the knees, and summer collections include shorts. But the following details remain the unshakable features of Chanel's style:

• minimalism of color and accessories (maybe a red handbag, shoes or a scarf, but you should not wear a red jacket);
• a pencil skirt is complemented by tights, shoes of the same tone (black under a black skirt);
• patterned tights are unacceptable;
• in the finished image there should not be anything superfluous, all elements are interconnected in color and style;
• clothing must be comfortable, and the silhouette must be clearly defined;
• ideally, the neck, hands, shins, ankles remain open.

Time is inexorable, it moves by leaps and bounds, but the style of Coco Chanel remains the same. Photos depicting girls dressed in accordance with all of the above requirements and canons are sure to arouse admiration for the femininity and extraordinary elegance of the models. When choosing the perfect outfit, remember that Coco Chanel always put a woman in the first place with her tenderness, beauty, modesty and sexuality. “Fashion comes, but style remains,” these words have survived the era, and ladies who follow wise advice continue to captivate the eye.

The legendary Coco Chanel gave women all over the world the opportunity to dress simply and comfortably. Becoming a revolutionary in the world of fashion, she brought to everyday ladies' outfits what all the fair sex had been dreaming of for a long time - comfort. A Chanel-style suit is a time-tested classic that is still relevant today. Let's find out what such an outfit should be in our days.

A bit of history

She burst into the world of high fashion like a breath of fresh air: Coco Chanel gave women all over the world the opportunity to get rid of suffocating corsets, puffy skirts, and most importantly, “legitimized” women's trousers.

Today it is almost impossible to imagine a business woman's wardrobe without an elegant tweed trouser "two". It was this fabric that Chanel first gave with her unique women's suits. great life, and then the new associations: modern classic, self-sufficient woman, business casual style.

The modern suit a la Chanel has a long history and a long way transformations. Chanel released their first collection of tweeds in 1926. But this clothing was not appreciated. Year after year, Koko changed the cut, styles, leaving only one invariable component of her things - tweed. And now, already a 70-year-old woman, in 1954, Chanel finally gets recognition: a short tweed jacket and a classic-length skirt (well covering her knees) become real favorites of the fashion community around the world.

Peculiarities

This classic Chanel jacket is crafted from soft tweed. The length is short - barely reaches the top line of the skirt belt. The pattern is always very elegant - in an intricate cage or with a melange effect. The silhouette of such a jacket is necessarily semi-adjacent, there is no collar, the fastener is buttoned or absent. The last option was very fond of Coco herself: a delightful trendsetter stabbed such a jacket with a brooch or cameo.

The legendary jacket from Chanel has always had such specific traits like patch pockets - two or four. They were decorated with original braid, the color of which either matched the tone of the costume or contrasted with it. In the course of the evolution of the Chanel suit, models of jackets equipped with a collar - fur or English (short, velvet) - began to appear.

An important trademark of Mademoiselle Coco's costumes was high-quality fittings and expensive finishes: buttons marked with the company logo, a thin chain sewn into an expensive silk lining.

Varieties

Of course, the models produced by the fashion house today meet all the requirements of the current style for a modern woman. But there are things that will always be in demand. This is a classic. Therefore, in many modern collections, a lot of space is still given to tweed twos - both trouser and ensembles with a skirt.

For admirers of a purely feminine style, the “skirt and jacket” option remains a priority. So, the most popular today can be called options with a pencil skirt, the length of which barely reaches the knee. In this case, the jacket is most often chosen with or without an English collar.

For lovers of modernity in clothes, Chanel offers both options with non-classical skirts, for example, pleated, as well as sets with shorts or tight trousers. At the same time, a shawl collar, fringe trim and other interesting innovations are possible in the design of the jacket.

In the modern collections of the fashion house, you can find a number of innovative techniques:

• combination of tweed with chiffon;
• fitting the buttons with the fabric from which the jacket is made;
• decorating the jacket with a belt made of contrasting fabric.

All this suggests that the costumes once created by Gabrielle Chanel are constantly evolving in accordance with the spirit of the times, but still remain classics.

Color solutions

Pink remains one of the most popular colors among connoisseurs of Chanel's feminine style, so the designers of the fashion house are trying to release new collections using a variety of shades of this delicate color.

However, black and white are still considered classic - both individually and in pairs. The latter option allows you to achieve a bright contrast - very important element in a Chanel suit.

However, this is not all. Modern collections of the eminent brand delight their admirers with a variety of color schemes for every taste. So, you can find your favorite tweed suits made in pastel colors (cream, lemon, mint, lavender) with the same contrast in decoration (most often it is White color). The fantasy of designers also provides a rich selection of costumes in bright colors.

Fashion trends 2020

Of course, Chanel's classic style is fertile ground for inspiration for many other brands, designers, and fashionistas. The laws of style, dictated in an outfit from a famous fashion house, are respected today even without the use of clothes from this brand.

Many fashionistas prefer to create outfits "under Chanel", using more affordable clothes from imitator brands. And it's not just about the costumes. Chanel-style dresses are still incredibly popular.

However, true admirers of high fashion still prefer clothes created by the hands of great masters. And in this sense, the creations of the Chanel house will never lose their relevance. So, today we can distinguish two main categories of Chanel clothes.

Youth style

This direction is characterized by short skirts with a trapezoidal or narrowed cut. The belt is too high, the jacket is extremely short, maybe even a bolero. Representatives of the younger generation are very fond of three-piece suits, consisting of a skirt or trousers, a jacket and a top, made in one fabric. A set of a sheath dress and a cropped jacket can also be called fashionable today. Chanel's youth collections differ from the classic ones in that they often deviate from the traditional material - tweed.

Suits for women 40-50 years old

In adulthood, femininity blossoms to the fullest, and it is no longer so important to emphasize it, but to complement or even restrain it. That's why a Chanel-style suit is a must-have for any lady in her 40s and 50s. After all, it was the sophisticated Coco who knew how a woman should look in these years.

A few important points that will become the basis of an impeccable style:

• Colors. If you use black, keep it company with delicate pinks or deep reds. The first option is suitable for every day, the second - for special occasions. Love monophonic ensembles? Then pay attention to pastel colors.
• Print. Any pattern in the style of Chanel is simple, unobtrusive, but at the same time it is the pinnacle of style and grace. So feel free to choose any you like and wear it with pleasure!
• Style. The best options for this age are skirts up to the middle of the calf or a little higher, as well as loose trousers. But, in general, each fashionista can focus on her individual features of the figure. Many beauties, even in these years, can afford both mini and skinny, the main thing is that the outfit matches the situation.

Star images from Chanel

At one time, the first lady of the United States - Jackie Kennedy - became one of the main popularizers of the Chanel tweed skirt suit. The pink suit that became the hallmark of Jacqueline Kennedy is now forever associated with the modern business woman.

Style icon - Victoria Beckham - has always demonstrated great taste. Even during her participation in the popular Spice Girls band, whose members were distinguished by memorable flashy (and sometimes completely tasteless) costumes, Vicky stood out with beautiful stylish and restrained outfits. And now the singer and model prefers strict simplicity to outrageous styles and colors: a shortened jacket from Chanel is an excellent proof of this.

Ashley Olsen sets an example of how to complete a formal outfit with a classic Chanel jacket. "Black bottom and white top" of other brands, the actress perfectly complemented the little thing in a masculine style from Mademoiselle Coco.

An even more masculine version of the Chanel-style ladies' outfit is shown by the heroine of exciting blockbusters - Milla Jovovich. Such a trouser suit is especially well suited for a woman of mature age, it will emphasize the solidity of her status and, possibly, her domineering character.