Senor Tomato is a positive hero of culinary creations, in contrast to the character of the famous cartoon. To enjoy the taste of a homemade vegetable, it is enough to know the peculiarities of the crop variety and a few rules for growing tomatoes.

Tomato, or tomato is an annual or perennial plant of the Solanaceae family. Until the 18th century, they did not eat it, considering the fruits of tomato poisonous. Tomatoes are rich in fiber, glucose, fructose and other elements. Tomatoes improve mood due to the presence of tyramine, which is converted into serotonin in the body. Eating tomatoes increases immunity, improves digestion, and lowers blood cholesterol levels. Types and varieties of tomatoes: characteristics and classification Depending on the height of the plant, the ripening period of the fruit, there are three main varieties of tomatoes: determinant, semi-determinants not, indeterminate. Determinant varieties Stunted. The height of the bush is from 25 to 150 cm. The tomato bush forms 3 to 5 clusters with inflorescences, the growth stops with the last cluster. The first brush is formed after 4-5 leaves. The rest grow in 1-2 leaves. Early ripening - from 85 to 110 days from germination to the first harvest. Planted in open ground. Planted at a distance of 40-60 cm between bushes, 60-70 cm between beds. A denser planting is possible depending on the variety and size of the bushes. The most popular varieties: Dubok, Yamal, Alaska, Sultan, Raketa, Agata, etc. Semi-determinant varieties Tall. The height of the bush is from 150 to 160 cm. May restrict growth after forming 3 to 4 brushes. Mid-season - from 85 to 110 days from germination to the first harvest. Planted in film, winter greenhouses. It is grown outdoors in the southern regions. Popular varieties: Chirchik, Partner Semko, Magnus, Chigan. Indeterminate They grow in the form of creepers, while there is an opportunity. Harvest 40 to 50 brushes. Form the plant into one stem. Late - ripening over 115 days from germination to the first harvest. Grown in greenhouses. Planted at a distance of 50-60 cm between bushes, 80-90 cm between rows. Such a long distance is due to the need to tie tall bushes to the supports. Popular varieties: Nada, Noemi, Star Gold, Christina Plume, Cherokee. Due to the fact that indeterminate varieties yield crops only in warm climates and ripen later than determinant ones, it is impractical to do planting in open ground. The determinants are divided into: Standard grades. They have a short stature, strong stem. Do not need shaping. A garter of plants is required. Determinant. They need shaping and pinning, i.e. removing unnecessary shoots. Form into two stems. Superdeterminate. Low-growing varieties. Do not require pinning, because the harvest is tied to the stepsons. Height no more than 0.8 m. Tomato varieties for open ground The early varieties of tomatoes for open ground are all representatives of the determinant group. The advantage of this group of tomatoes is the full yield of the crop and ease of maintenance. The most famous undersized tomatoes for open ground are: Mystery... Super early grade. Fruit ripening 85 days after sowing the seeds. Fruits are round, dense, weighing up to 150 g. The growth of plants reaches 40 cm. The bush must be pinned, otherwise the tomatoes will be small. Anastasia... Ripening of fruits 100-105 days after sowing. The shape of the fruit is elongated, the weight is from 100 to 150 g. The bush can reach up to 130 cm in height. Alpha... Superdeterminate variety. Ripening period from 85 to 95 days. Fruits are round, red, weight up to 120 g. Used in salads. Aphrodite F1... Ultra early grade. Fruiting occurs 75 days after sowing. The height of the bush is up to 50 cm.The fruits are fleshy, elongated, weight up to 140 g. Valentine... Ripens up to 98 days after sowing. The height of the bush is up to 70 cm. This species is resistant to cracking. Standard varieties are the most unpretentious type of determinant undersized varieties for open ground. Many varieties have proven to be cold-hardy. The best varieties of standard tomatoes for growing in the open field are distinguished: Rose of Wind... Ripening period up to 3 months. Cold resistant. The height of the bush is not more than 50 cm. Fruits weighing up to 130 g. Polyarny variety... Ripening period from 94 to 108 days. Height up to 30 cm.Fruit weight up to 150 g. Betta... Ripens within 2.5 months. Bushes up to 50 cm high.Fruit weight up to 50 g. Oak... Ripening period from 100 to 110 days. The height of the bush is up to 60 cm.The weight of the fruit is from 90 to 130 g. Yamal... Ripening period up to 83 days after germination. The height of the bush is from 25 to 30 cm.The weight of the fruit is from 90 to 110 g. Stages of growing tomatoes in the open field There are a number of simple rules that will help you avoid yield loss and plant disease. It is necessary to adhere to these rules even at the stage of autumn soil preparation for planting. Autumn soil preparation Features of compiling a good soil for growing tomatoes: Start preparing the soil in the fall, before frost. Assessment of predecessors in the garden. Recommended crops that could grow in the soil provided for planting tomatoes: cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, cucumbers, onions, parsley, carrots. During their growth, these plants introduce substances into the soil that have a beneficial effect on the growth of tomato. Tomatoes are not grown where potatoes, eggplant, and peppers used to grow in order to avoid infection with common diseases for these crops. Tomatoes are planted after harvesting potatoes in 2-3 years. Checking the acidity of the soil. A good soil for tomatoes is a soil with a neutral acidity of 6.5-7.0 pH. Tomatoes are also ready to be measured against slightly acidic soil. They do not tolerate acidic and alkaline soil. Increased acidity leads to the development of pathogenic bacteria and the cessation of the action of beneficial microorganisms applied with fertilizers. To neutralize the acidity of the soil, it is worth adding lime to the soil at the rate of 0.5-0.9 kg of lime per 1 m 2. Growing tomatoes in soil, in which tomatoes have already grown, leads to gradual acidification of the soil, so you can plant tomatoes after 3 years. In order to avoid an excess of calcium, which increases the alkalinity of the soil, it is better to apply lime under the previous crops. Fertilizers containing ammonia, in addition to calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate, can be used to acidify alkaline soil. The priority will be the soil where fertilizers were previously applied (compost, ash, lime). After choosing a place for planting tomatoes, dig up the soil to a depth of 22 to 25 cm. The soil is not leveled to accumulate moisture. Organic fertilizers are applied if the soil has not been fertilized earlier. For fertilization, you can use humus or compost. Fertilizers are covered to a depth of 25 cm. This will serve as the main supply of nutrients for the tomato root system. During fertilization, do not mix ash with manure, ammonium sulfate, in order to avoid loss of nitrogen. Mixing ash with superphosphate and lime reduces the availability of phosphorus. Choosing tomato seeds for open field Important factors are determined for choosing a tomato variety: Growing method: seedling or seedling. It is possible to grow tomatoes in a seedless way only in the southern regions, due to the long growing season. Sow in an open soil heated to 20 ° C. Growing area. When choosing seeds, you should pay attention to the fact that tomatoes should be intended for planting in open ground. This is indicated on the packaging. Ripening time of tomatoes. Determine the amount of harvest that you would like to receive. In spite of early date maturity, some early ripening tomato varieties have low yields. The purpose of growing the crop. These can be preparations for the winter, conservation, fresh consumption in salads, long-term storage of fresh vegetables, etc. Seed producers often indicate the purpose of the tomato variety. The amount of time to take care of the tomatoes. The range of variety selection will narrow if there is no time for pinching, tying and shaping the bush. Disease prevention. Knowledge of the basic parameters of the soil, climate, common problems in the region will help to choose a sustainable tomato species. Shape, color, size of fruits. There are many beautiful and attractive varieties, after seeing which you will want to try to grow in your area. Growing seedlings for planting tomatoes in open ground If you plan to grow seedlings at home, determine the duration of the growing season. To this figure is added the period for seed germination and for the adaptation of the plant. Knowing the desired harvest date, calculate the start date of seed preparation. Seed preparation. There are many tips for preparing seeds, this is heating and processing seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate, epin, zircon, etc. An important point in this matter is caution. It is believed that if the seed itself could not sprout at home, then the viability of such a plant is in question. Preparing seedling containers. These can be cups, cassettes that need to be disinfected. Seedling containers should have drainage holes for air circulation to avoid rot formation. The depth of the containers is chosen at least 10 cm. Substrate preparation. Tomato seedlings are not pretentious to the quality of the substrate, you can just buy peat soil, or do it yourself. The substrate is thoroughly steamed and moistened. The seeds are buried in the soil by 1 cm. After sowing, cover the containers with foil. Preparing a place for installing cassettes with seedlings. It should be a bright, warm place. The temperature in the room or greenhouse is maintained at around 23 ° C, until the first shoots appear. Watering is carried out only with a spray. The moisture content of the soil is checked by hand. After germination of all seedlings, the film is removed. Do this in the afternoon to avoid moisture evaporation. Provides additional lighting. Lighting fixtures should not be located too close to the seedlings. At least at a distance of 50 cm. Seedling hardening. After removing the film, the temperature is regulated: up to + 10 ° С at night, up to + 15 ° С during the day. Do this all the time before planting seedlings in open ground. Selection of purchased tomato seedlings for growing in the open field Basic rules for choosing seedlings for growing outdoors: Plant height should be no more than 20 cm. A good seedling for growing low-growing varieties has 6 to 8 leaves, for growing tall varieties - 11 to 12 leaves. Chopped seedlings are preferred. Such seedlings have a well-developed root system. The roots are located on the periphery, and not with the stem down. In open ground, seedlings are planted hardened. The leaves of such seedlings are bright green. Seedling age for early varieties tomato is no more than 60 days, for late - no more than 80 days. The thickness of the seedling stem is usually slightly less than a pencil. Thicker stems indicate the "overfeeding" of the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. The purchase of seedlings is made as close as possible to the time of disembarkation, it is recommended two hours before planting in open ground, no more. The seedlings will wither and may not be accepted. Spring soil preparation In the spring, a week before the planned planting of seedlings, the soil is prepared. Break up all clods of earth and level the soil to exclude evaporation of moisture that has accumulated over the winter and spring. During this time, the soil will warm up, weeds will begin to appear, which can be easily removed with a rake. Fertilizers are applied. Mineral fertilizers are applied for digging. It can be 20 g of potassium chloride and 80 g of superphosphate per 1 m 2. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied for digging, because they are necessary for plants after adaptation and the beginning of growth. Before planting, make holes with the required depth of up to 15 cm. The distances between holes and rows depend on the variety of tomatoes. Planting tomato seedlings in open ground Seedlings are planted when the frost has passed, and the above-zero temperature will persist for a week. For many districts this is the first third of June, for some it is the beginning of May. The area for planting tomatoes in open ground should be sunny and ventilated. These can be southern, southwestern, southeastern sections. The planting of tomato seedlings in the ground is carried out after the appearance of the first flower brush. At this time, the seedlings should form from 6 to 8 leaves. Typically, seedlings are between 50 and 60 days old, depending on the type of tomato. For seedlings, which are strongly elongated by the time of planting, a couple of lower leaves are cut off. After such pruning, the seedlings are planted deeply into the soil, and the adventitious roots on the lower part of the seedlings provide the plant with additional nutrition. Prepared holes are filled with water, at the rate of up to 1 liter per hole. Allow water to soak into the soil. Seedlings with a developed root system are placed in the holes strictly vertically, buried to the cotyledon leaves. Elongated seedlings are placed obliquely and buried to half the stem. Wells with seedlings are watered again and sprinkled with dry earth. Do not plant seedlings where plants grow, the neighborhood with which can harm tomatoes: potatoes, zucchini, fennel. The growth of tomatoes will be favorably influenced by the proximity to basil, celery, onions, bird cherry. Tomato care Periodically remove the lower leaves of the tomatoes, which can lead to stagnation of air in the lower part of the hole. Remove no more than three leaves at a time. After a day, the plant needs to be watered. Removal frequency - at least once a week. They loosen, weed the soil, tie up the tomatoes at least three times a season. They huddle the soil on the 12th day after planting the seedlings. A good temperature for the normal development of tomatoes: in sunny weather - up to 25 ° С, in cloudy - from 18 to 22 ° С, at night - not lower than 15 ° С. Suitable humidity 65%. Dry air is important during pollination. Watering tomatoes outdoors Over-watering tomatoes is harmful. Pour tomatoes with water at room temperature. Watering the tomato in the ground is carried out carefully, trying not to get on the leaves and trunk of the plant. This causes burns. Tomatoes are watered in the evening, with the exception of hot sunny days. Watering is carried out as the earthen coma dries out, trying to moisten the entire depth of the layer with humus, fertilizer. Before hilling, during the flowering period of the first and second brushes, the plant must be watered. Formation of tomatoes Tomato picking is carried out during the growing season. Indeterminate plants form one stem, determinant plants form two stems. The stepsons are removed at a length of 5 to 7 cm. To accelerate growth and accelerate ripening of the tomato, the tops of the shoots that bear fruit are removed. This is done in mid-August. At the same time, remove all brushes with barren flowers. Fertilization In order not to harm the plants and their own tomato harvest, they follow simple rules. Organic fertilizers Organic nitrogen fertilizers are used in limited quantities. Excessive application of manure, compost, vermicompost is fraught with "fattening" of the tomato, while the stems become thick and the leaves are wide. If organic fertilizers were applied for the predecessors of tomatoes (cabbage, cucumber), then these fertilizers are not applied for early tomatoes. For late varieties of tomatoes, organic fertilizers are applied only during autumn soil preparation. Mineral fertilizers Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers has a positive effect on the growth of tomatoes and leads to a long growing season. If mineral fertilizers were not applied before planting the seedlings, then the first feeding with nitrogen and phosphorus is done already 2-3 weeks after planting. The second feeding with ammonium nitrate is done at the beginning of fetal formation. Mineral substance Importance in the growth of a tomato Signs of a lack of substance Nitrogen Accelerated ripening of fruits when using this element together with potassium and magnesium It can occur when transplanting seedlings into open ground is delayed over time. In this case, only the lower leaves fall. The plant turns light green, stunted Potassium Increased resistance to temperature extremes, diseases. Responsible for the formation of large fruits and high yields Lack of potassium is accompanied by staining of the edges of the leaves in yellow-green and orange colors. In the future, the stalk becomes lignified. Magnesium Increases the possibility of fruit setting. Influences their development and growth Leaves roll up and turn yellow Phosphorus Improving the root system. Renders positive influence on the taste of fruits, on their quantity and speed of ripening Rain and cold weather interfere with the absorption of phosphorus. The plant reacts sharply to a lack of phosphorus during the growing season and after transplantation. During this, the leaves of the plant darken, become a purple hue, and subsequently fold. At the same time, the tomatoes turn purple Fertilizer overdose An excess of nitrogen leads to a reduced immunity of the plant, the period of fruit ripening increases. Excess chlorine is harmful. To avoid this, fertilizers should be applied in the form of potassium sulfate. It is impossible to give up potash fertilizers, tomatoes can get chlorosis. In general, with an excess of nitrogen and phosphorus, the amount of potassium may decrease, which entails a lack of magnesium and calcium in tomatoes. Harvesting and storage of crops With the beginning of September, the moment comes when tomatoes are removed from open ground. During this period, a large number of fruits cease to ripen. Due to uneven ripening, tomatoes are harvested daily. Collecting brown tomatoes makes it possible for the bush to throw all its energy into ripening green tomatoes. Brown will be able to reach houses in warm and dark. The fruits are harvested without stalks. Store in a dark place at room temperature. In the refrigerator, the ripening process slows down. Photo of tomatoes in the open field The main diseases of the tomato in the open field Late blight... One of the most common tomato diseases. The causative agent is a mushroom "phytophthora". For the development of phytophthora in tomatoes in the open field, the most favorable conditions are. It develops at high humidity of 75%, moderately warm weather from 15 to 20 ° C, fluctuations in night and day temperatures and with abundant dew. All this is observed by the middle of summer. Mainly fruits are affected, they rot. The pathogen settles on the soil, on potatoes, on plant debris. For prevention, it is possible to use biological and chemical preparations. Alternaria... Leaves and fruits are covered with black spots, then completely blacken. Develops with high temperatures and humidity. Changes in the weather accelerate the development of the disease. In the open field, Metaxil is also used. Septoriasis(white spot). The lower, old leaves are the first to fall ill, become covered with dark spots, curl and fall off. It develops at temperatures from +15 to + 17 ° С, air humidity 76% and above. The fungus remains in plant debris. No chemical approved measures. Many tomato varieties have a gene for resistance to septoria blight. Growing tomatoes in the open field is painstaking, but not difficult. The main thing is to follow simple rules and know the laws of nature. And then she will give you a generous harvest of this delicious fruit.

Outdoor tomato care

Caring for tomatoes at the same time is very easy if you are not chasing a particularly large harvest, and at the same time troublesome if you want to get as much fruit as possible. The trick is that, although a tomato in itself is not too demanding (it can bear fruit even when it is only occasionally watered and protected from weeds), but it is very responsive to almost all agrotechnical measures pleasant for it. The better he is taken care of, the more fresh tomatoes he will produce. But taking good care of a tomato does not mean that he needs a lot of everything, on the contrary, a sense of proportion in caring for a tomato is rule number one. After all, he does not like either excess water, or drought, or lack of fertilizers, or overfeeding with them, especially nitrogen, from which the bush will immediately begin to "fatten".

The necessary care for tomatoes includes watering, feeding, loosening the soil, tying tall varieties to supports and re-tying them as needed, light hilling, as well as weeding and, if necessary, protection from pests and diseases.

Watering a tomato

Tomatoes do not like excess water or drought. They should be watered as the soil dries up, preventing it from drying out completely, rarely, but abundantly, on average once a week, if there is no rain, and when they come, even less often. The most important thing is that the tomatoes have enough water from the moment the ovaries form until the end of the fruit filling. If at this time the tomato falls under a drought, the ovaries may crumble, and the fruits that grow from those that survive will turn out to be atypically small. A little later, when they have already developed, lack of watering can cause the fruit to crack. Tomatoes like drip or "underground" irrigation most of all - where it is used, yields are usually higher. If you water them in this way, as well as under the root or along the furrows, and only in the evening, they will never get sick with the top rot of the fruit. And here's another little secret: tomatoes are less likely to get sick and grow better if you add a little ash to the water for irrigation (a couple of pinches per ten-liter bucket). They will bear fruit better even if, as soon as the ovaries begin to appear, sprinkle the soil around them with ash (also about a handful per 1 m 2). It is necessary to loosen the soil every time you notice a hard crust on it, and it usually forms after watering or rains.

Top dressing

You need to feed the tomatoes at least three times a season, and even better - do it constantly, every two weeks. Fertilizers can be used in different ways, the main thing is that there is less nitrogen in them than phosphorus with potassium, for example: 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. However, they also respond well to a solution of bird droppings. Of micronutrients, they need magnesium and boron most of all: magnesium - constantly, and boron - when they bloom, because flowers and ovary can begin to crumble from a lack of it. For top dressing, you need to take 1 g of boric acid per 1 liter of water and spray the herbs in the afternoon.

Tying bushes to supports

It is necessary to tie tall tomatoes to the pegs immediately after the seedlings planted in a permanent place take root well and start growing, and with a non-seedling method, when the seedlings have 5-6 leaves. The stakes must be driven into the ground from the north side to a depth of about 40 cm from the plant and at a distance of 10 cm from the stem. The height of the peg must be matched to the height of the variety (usually from 1 to 1.5 m). However, some varieties can be tied not to pegs, but to a wire horizontally stretched between rows (trellis), tilting plants from adjacent rows in pairs to each other. Then their fruits will be slightly larger (why is difficult to say, but in practice it usually turns out like this), and it is easier to harvest them. This applies not only to tall, but also to medium-sized varieties.

It is necessary to sprinkle tomatoes 2-3 times per season.

Tomatoes must be protected from weeds constantly, from the very first days, preventing weeds from growing. It is most convenient to do this together with loosening and hilling.

Formation of bushes

But the formation of a bush and the removal of stepchildren are techniques that are needed not by the tomatoes themselves, but by us in order to get more good fruits.

It is not necessary to form bushes in all varieties (in some, only one main stem grows as it is). Most often, one main stem is left, but varieties with powerful stems and with medium-sized, but numerous fruits can be formed into two stems or three. The farther south you live, the more stems you can leave, because the long southern summer will allow all the fruits that have set to ripen. True, they may be smaller than on the main stem.

There is nothing difficult in forming. If you need one stalk, it is necessary to remove all the stepsons appearing in the leaf axils as soon as they appear, not allowing them to grow to a length of 2-4 cm.First of all, you need to remove those stepsons that have grown immediately under the brushes, otherwise the tomato may shed flowers and ovary.

If you form a bush into two stems, leave a lateral shoot that will appear near the first brush, and if in three, then besides it, it is also the strongest of those that will appear under the second stem.

In this case, the stepsons should not be pulled out, but broken out, carefully grasping them with your thumb and forefinger, and pulling to the side, and not towards yourself. If they managed to grow too large, it is better to cut them off with a sharpened knife or razor.

It is necessary to constantly pick up tomatoes, no matter how many stalks they have left. There is, however, one important limitation: during too strong summer heat, it is better to temporarily refrain from breaking off leaves and pinching, because the bushes do not tolerate injuries in such conditions. But if in the summer there are prolonged rains with a cold snap, it is advisable not only to pinch the tomatoes, but also to remove parts of the shoots and all the lower leaves from them, so that the bushes warm up faster and better ventilate.

In addition, for a better harvest, somewhere in the middle of August, it is worth pinching the tops of all fruiting shoots and removing those flower clusters on which fruits have not set, then those fruits that have already set will fill up better and ripen faster.

Grasshopping is one of the important agricultural practices when growing a tomato bush. There are certain rules and terms for its implementation, as well as various schemes for open ground and greenhouses. They depend on the category to which the tomato variety or hybrid belongs. Therefore, in order to get a bountiful harvest, you need to take into account all the nuances. Let us consider in the article step by step how the pinching of tomatoes occurs in the open ground.

Stepsons and Tomato Pinching

Lateral shoots that appear on tomato bushes are called stepchildren. They begin to grow out of their leaf axils and are located at the junction of the leaf and stem. If the stepchildren are not removed, they begin to grow, forming new leaves, in the axils of which the stepchildren of the second order develop. Over time, flowers and ovaries may also appear on them. In this case, an overload of the plant occurs, which cannot provide all the fruits with nutrition.

Stepsons are lateral shoots that appear in the leaf axils, they must be removed

That is why all unnecessary lateral stepchildren are removed in time, correctly forming tomato bushes and adjusting the permissible load on each bush. Grazing provides an increase in yield, timely ripening of fruits and a decrease in plant density. Removing unnecessary stepchildren allows the plant to efficiently distribute nutrients, directing them to the fruit.

Timing of correct pinching of tomatoes

• For certain varieties of tomatoes, pinching will have to be done constantly, this is a necessary measure for caring for plants. Since the growth activity of stepchildren is different and depends on both varietal characteristics and weather conditions, it is necessary to make it a rule to check for new shoots and remove them at least once every 7-11 days. Sometimes you have to get rid of unnecessary shoots already at the stage of growing seedlings.
• It is advisable to remove emerging stepchildren immediately, preventing growth over 4-5 cm. This is necessary so that the plant does not waste its energy and nutritional resources on their development. In addition, young shoots are easier to remove. Such an operation will be painless enough, tomatoes will be less injured. Read also the article: → "".
• It is advisable to carry out this operation on dry and warm days. In this case, the damage will sooner overgrow, and the infection will not have time to penetrate them.
• Usually, vegetable growers try to leave a small stump of the shoot (up to 1 cm), which is believed to prevent the further appearance of fresh shoots in this place.

Tip # 1.It is better to remove stepchildren in the morning. At this time, they break off more easily and the wounds have time to dry out until evening.

It is better to remove stepchildren in the morning, they need to be slightly tilted down and then broken off

Methods and rules for pinching

Shoot stepsons can be removed in two ways:

1. Breaking or pinching with your hands is the most common method;
2. Cut with a knife or scissors.

In order to exclude the spread of infections when pinching, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules:

• work with rubber gloves;
• use a sharpened tool, then damage to the stem will be minimal;
• after cutting off stepchildren on one plant, the instrument should be disinfected by immersing in a solution of manganese or bleach (1%);
• all removed shoots are destroyed.

Please note: if the plants are sick, it is better to break off the stepsons by hand, it is easier to exclude the spread of infections through insufficiently disinfected instruments.

Tip # 2.Don't let the plants grow thicker with useless side shoots. After the belated and one-step removal of all overgrown stepchildren, tomato bushes can hurt and lag behind in development.

Principles of pinching individual shoots

It should be noted that sometimes not all stepsons are deleted. Left shoots can additionally form new stems, and in some cases pinching can be omitted altogether. The formation of bushes depends on the biological characteristics of the tomato varieties or hybrids chosen for growing.

According to their characteristics, they are divided into categories. Usually this information is written on a bag of seeds, as well as information on the formation of a given variety. Therefore, in order to correctly make pinching and get a good harvest, special attention must be paid to this.

The diagrams clearly show how to form tomatoes in 1, 2 or 3 stems (click to enlarge)

1. Superdeterminate. They are distinguished by early maturity, very early. Can grow and bear fruit without pinching.
2. Indeterminate. Their biological feature is their unlimited growth. During cultivation, at special conditions and top dressing, form up to 40 brushes on one plant. They are formed into one, less often into two stems.
3. Determinant. Usually short. They stop growing after a certain number of brushes are tied. To obtain a larger yield, they need to be formed into 3-4 stems.
4. Stamp. One of the varieties of determinant. They have a single, strong and undersized stem. Stepsons can start to form, but they quickly stop growing and do not affect yields. Therefore, plants of this category do not need pinching and garter.
5. Semi-determinant. They occupy an intermediate position, since after a while they stop their intensive growth. Form into 2-3 stems, leaving the strongest shoots.

Tip # 3.If there is no time or desire to deal with the removal of stepchildren, pay attention to varieties that do not need it.

Formation into one stem

A method in which all the stepchildren-shoots on the main stem are regularly removed. The bush turns out to be single-stemmed, only leaves and flower brushes are located on it.

All stepchildren, when forming indeterminants into one stem, must be removed in a timely manner.

• As noted above, this formation scheme is suitable for indeterminate and semi-determinant varieties.
• Fruit clusters of such varieties are laid every 3 new leaves, and the growth in height is unlimited. Therefore, there is no need to create additional stems.
• Experienced gardeners usually keep no more than 7-12 brushes on the bush, then pinch the top. Plants should not be overloaded with fruits as they will shrink and may not ripen.
• If the summer in the regions is short, then it is optimal to reduce the number of peduncles to 5-7 pieces.
• A large number of brushes are left with intensive cultivation in specialized farms, the constant use of stimulants and special dressings.

Formation of a bush in 2-3 stems

It is mainly used in the cultivation of determinate plants. Their peculiarity is that only a few inflorescences appear on the main stem. Then its growth stops, and a flower brush appears at the end.

• To increase the yield, you need to take care in advance of the additional stems that are formed, leaving the stepchildren. New fruit clusters can form on them.
• From strong stepchildren (usually up to 3 pieces are left), the second and subsequent stems are obtained. They should be located under the first peduncles. All other stepchildren-shoots are regularly removed.

The stepson, located under the first brush, can be left to form 2 stems

• On low-growing bushes, it is advisable to leave 5-7 brushes with fruits. In this case, 2-3 brushes are formed on the stems. Then the ends of the additional stems must be pinched, leaving a few leaves above the last brush.
• Remember that illiterate pinching will lead to education a large number ovaries. As a result, they will not receive sufficient nutrition and will not have time to mature.

Features of the formation of tomatoes in the greenhouse

For closed ground, there are certain features of the formation of bushes. First of all, they depend on the capabilities of the greenhouse economy in creating optimal conditions for the cultivation of crops.

• For the most efficient use of useful areas and obtaining a bountiful harvest, indeterminate varieties are usually grown, forming a bush into one stem. The plant is placed on trellises, tied with twine. Upon reaching a certain height, the growth point is usually pinched, the stepsons break off in time.
• Indeterminants are often grown in 2 stems. This technique is especially justified in greenhouses with low ceilings, where tomatoes are limited in growth. 3-6 brushes are left on each stem.
• Determinants are formed into 2 or 3 stems. The stepsons are kept under 1 and 2 brushes, the rest are removed. When 3-4 flower brushes appear on the additional stem, it is transferred to the replacement shoot (strong stepson of the second order), pinching the growth point. This is in contrast to the formation of tomatoes in the open field. Read also the article: → "".

The diagrams show how tomatoes are formed in 1 or 2-3 stalks in greenhouses (click to enlarge)

• Growing in a greenhouse makes it possible to increase the time required for fruit ripening. Therefore, more flower brushes can be left on the bushes than in the open field, and an increase in yield can be obtained. At the same time, not forgetting that tomatoes will need more intensive care and nutrition.
• In the greenhouse, stepchildren can appear on plants much more often than in the open field due to the intense and more favorable growing conditions. This should be taken into account in order to remove them in time.
• Another feature is that to get an early harvest (in home greenhouses), it is better to plant super determinants and early maturing determinants. The number of fruit brushes on the bush is reduced (up to 3-4 pcs.), So that the tomatoes form and ripen as soon as possible. The tops are pinched, the bush is formed into one stem, the stepsons are removed in a timely manner.

Before engaging in pinching and shaping tomatoes, it is important to decide for what purposes they are grown (early production, summer consumption, conservation). In accordance with these needs, leave a certain number of fruit clusters.

Answers to current questions

It is believed that such an arrangement does not slow down the emergence of new fruit clusters and the ripening of fruits.

Question number 2. How to properly form a tomato in the greenhouses of the northern regions?

As a rule, determinants are grown in greenhouses in the northern regions. They can be formed into 2 or 3 stems, leaving up to 5-7 clusters per bush. They will have time to mature in a short summer.

Question number 3. I wanted to leave my stepchildren for the formation of a determinant in 3 stems, but they do not grow, why?

In some varieties, stepchildren do not develop, this is their biological feature.

Question number 4. How to find out where the stepson is at the tomato?

First, a leaf appears on the stem, and then a step-son appears between the leaf and the main stem (from the leaf axil).

Review of tomato pinching

On the site I grow mainly tall tomatoes. To get good yields, I act according to a certain method when I form bushes. I plant 2 plants in the hole at once. When they grow up, I begin to tie them to the supports, connecting them in pairs. Thus, the design is more reliable, the plants seem to support each other.

I spend the step-by-step without removing the first two lower stepsons on each plant, and I break off the rest as they appear. I grow the lower stepsons and sprinkle them with earth, they very quickly form roots. Due to this, the bush receives additional nutrition and can form fruit clusters more intensively.

I tie the tops of the stepsons to the main stem, and after a while they grow and begin to bear fruit. In total, I leave up to 10-12 brushes on the plant, after which I pinch all the tops. This method helps to get an excellent harvest.

How to avoid mistakes when deleting stepsons

Mistake # 1. The stepsons do not leave on time, they outgrow. The plant expends food and energy on useless shoots.

Regularly remove stepchildren, preventing them from overgrowing over 5-7 cm.

Mistake # 2. Too many fruit brushes are left on the bush, the fruits do not have time to form and ripen.

Do not overload the bush, shape it correctly, leaving only the amount of fruit that has time to ripen.

Mistake number 3. Determinants are formed into 1 stem, resulting in a decrease in yield.

Form determinants in 2-4 stems, which will allow for additional flower clusters and increase the yield of fruits.

Every gardener, both an experienced specialist and a beginner, dreams of growing a delicious red-sided appetizing. But if an avid gardener already knows how to make a dream come true by resorting to certain planting care, then a novice amateur needs to know when to properly loosen, form seedlings, the timing of feeding and periods for full watering. Main feature good, fast and prolific growth of tomatoes is a careful planting care.

After the plant has been placed in the ground, the first thing to do is to spill it well with warm water. Moisture is the main food for tomatoes, but this is not a reason for overfilling the soil. Tomatoes do not tolerate marshy substrates, so irrigation should be moderate, as the earthy coma dries up, but not dry out. Otherwise, excess moisture causes fungal diseases.

It is advisable to water the tomatoes using standing water in the room. Until flowering, the bushes are moistened 1 time in 7-8 days with a volume of water up to 1 liter. In drier areas, this figure decreases to 4-5 days.

Irrigation must be carried out during the period when the sun has already set.

When watering, make sure that water does not fall on the delicate leaves. Otherwise, the sun that has not yet sat down can cause burns to young greenery through water droplets. carried out so as to shed all layers of the earth completely, moistening the soil around the root system.

To get a rich harvest, watering alone is not enough; fertilizers should be applied. The minimum care is feeding with nitroammophos once a season. For better growth and fruiting, it is advisable to feed the plant once every 2 weeks. When entering fertilizers, you must follow the rules:

1. Organic additives (nitrogen) are used in small amounts. With excessive fertilizing, the plant stops bearing fruit and grows.
2. If there were or were at the planting site before the time of planting, then fertilization is not worth it.
3. For varieties of late fruiting, fertilizers are prepared during the preparation of the soil in the autumn.
4. The first top dressing is applied 14-21 days after planting in open ground.
5. Overdose is dangerous for shrubs. There is a decrease in immunity, the duration of maturation increases.

During the period of growth of shrubs for the entire period, two mineral dressings must be applied and - in early June and in mid-summer (in July). It is during this period that tomatoes most need a nutrient medium for the growth and formation of fruits. The input of useful elements and minerals must be carefully monitored, since their shortage, as well as an overabundance, entails poor growth and development of the plant. Ultimately, there is no harvest and plant death.

Carried out at the time of landing. Covering the ground is done with different materials, such as:

• Chopped straw, cut grass.
• Fallen autumn foliage.
• Wood sawdust or chips, tree bark.
• Compost.
• Newsprint.
• Inorganic shelter methods (purchased products).

There are many options, each gardener chooses the method as he wishes. Thanks to mulch, the following processes take place:

1. The ground remains wet for a long period - there is no need for daily watering.
2. The substrate retains nutrients in its structure.
3. Prevents weeds from growing.
4. Promotes the retention of the soil in its place - does not allow it to wash out from under the running water from under the roots.

Of the most revered options for mulching, straw is distinguished. It is not laid out immediately after mowing, but allowed to dry out for a while under the hot rays of the sun (2-3 days). After that, it is placed under the plant so that the ground next to the trunk completely covers, and falls 15 cm in height.After a few days, the grass will sag and a good layer of mulch of 5-6 cm is formed.

Thus, by covering the soil, a longer period of soil moisture is achieved, as well as saturation of the soil with the nutrient properties contained in the mulch.

The soil is loosened as the top layer of the earth hardens. Such a crust prevents water from passing to a depth, allows the soil to be saturated only by 2-3 cm. Loosening not only has a fruitful effect on the flow of life-giving moisture to the root system, but also saturates the roots with the necessary oxygen.

Most often, such a crust forms after frequent heavy watering and with heavy summer rain.

Loosening and hilling alternate with each other. Each of the events must be carried out 3 times per season, then the plant will respond with lush growth and an abundance of red-cheeked tomatoes.

To obtain an abundant amount of fruit, the formation of a bush is carried out. For this purpose, they constitute from 1 stem on large-stem (tall) varieties and up to 3 main sprouts on low-growing types of tomatoes.

The circumcision period occurs during the active growing season, as well as as needed.

There are varieties that do not give stepchildren at all; you need to cut off the top in order to get additional branches. Others, on the contrary, throw out shoots at each branch. Stepsons grow in the axils of the leaves. When they reach 5-7 cm in size, it is advisable to remove them. Otherwise, they do not allow the formation of fruits, thereby taking away all the nutrients for their own growth.

The grown sprouts are carefully removed with a sharp knife or broken off, leaving a stump of no more than 2 cm. Such a need so that the plant does not re-start new growth in this bosom. In the case of a cold, rainy season, tomatoes not only stepchildren, but also cut out the lower greens and excess shoots. This is done so that the plant warms up and ventilates better, allowing the fruits to fill and ripen in time.

Any culture is susceptible to disease attack, especially one as delicate as tomatoes. There are several diseases that tomatoes are exposed to:

• Late blight - manifests itself with an increase in humidity up to 75% (while the optimal environment is 65%), it is also possible to develop on cool days when the temperature drops to + 15 + 20 C. Often the cause of the disease is abundant morning dew, which appears more often by the middle June. Fruit rotting occurs on the plant. Infected vegetables are removed so that the disease does not spread to neighboring tomato clusters. The fight against the disease is carried out by irrigation with biological and chemical substances.
• White spot - dark spots appear on the lower tops of the bush. They completely affect the entire leaf, which subsequently falls off. The bush becomes infected at low temperatures and night drops up to + 15 + 17 C. The disease cannot be cured, it remains in the genetic predisposition of the plant. However, many modern varieties are immune to it.
• Alternaria - dark spots appear on the tops, then the leaf completely blackens and falls off. This process takes place at elevated air temperatures and high humidity. The process is oppressed by the frequent change of weather conditions. The fight is carried out using the chemical "Metaxilin".

Thus, you should periodically review your plantings for diseases that can affect not only one shrub, but also lead to the death of the entire garden.

If you control the process of plant growth, you can notice the appearance of harmful insects. In this case, they must be removed from the sheets until the moment of their reproduction and increase in number.

Tomatoes are considered one of the most popular vegetables, so it is difficult to find a vegetable garden that does not have one. However, not every owner can boast of a generous harvest and large fruits. The main part of the problem of growing tomatoes is non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

To get a rich harvest, you need to take care of the plants properly, because in order to grow a vegetable in different regions, not all varieties are suitable.

Many amateur gardeners believe that the whole care of tomato beds is watering and weeding. In fact, with such scant attention, even the most prolific and disease-resistant hybrids will not yield great yields. Let's try to understand in more detail the generally accepted rules for growing tomatoes.

Agrotechnology for growing tomatoes consists of the following points:

• selection of seeds (in particular varieties) - certain varieties of tomatoes are suitable for each region;
• preparation of seed for planting (soaking in order to disinfect and stimulate growth);
• creating conditions for growing seedlings (lighting, temperature conditions, watering, feeding);
• picking seedlings;
• choosing a place for a bed and preparing the soil;
• transplanting seedlings to the beds;
• watering;
• fertilization;
• disease prevention;
• weeding and loosening of the soil;
• formation of bushes and pinching, garter of tall plants ( even if the tomato is undersized, you should not deviate from these rules);
• harvesting.

The choice of seeds and varieties of tomatoes is one of the first stages of agricultural technology.

In addition to the main stages, additional activities contributing to the better development of culture:

• mulching the garden;
• treatment of seedlings with growth stimulants;
• construction of a temporary shelter to protect against spring frosts (made of film or agrofibre);
• planting in the neighborhood of crops that drive away pests.

In order to adhere to routine plant care, experienced gardeners draw up an action plan at the beginning of the season.

What kind of soil do tomatoes like?

Tomatoes can grow on almost any soil, the question is the amount of preparatory work.

The best cultivation results are noted on nutritious loose soils with good moisture and air permeability... Such qualities are possessed, for example, by loams. The medium should be neutral or slightly acidic, but not acidic.

Before boarding, you need check pH level using laboratory tests or litmus paper. If the indicator exceeds the value of 5.5-6.5, then treatment should be carried out to adjust the acidity. To do this, dolomite flour or crushed lime is sprayed on the surface of the soil, which is then gently mixed with the ground with a rake.

The soil for tomatoes should be fertile, enriched with potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, zinc and other trace elements.

When applying fertilizers at the stage of preparing a site for planting seedlings, both organic fertilizers and complex mineral fertilizers are used. However, it should be noted that you should not get carried away with nutritious mixtures, you can burn out young shoots or provoke intensive growth of greens to the detriment of the formation of fruits.

When choosing a place for a tomato bed, you need to take into account what crops were grown on it last season.

The predecessors can deplete the soil so much that it is unlikely to get large tomato fruits. The same applies to the rule of crop rotation; it is not recommended to plant crops in the same area.

How to prepare the soil for tomatoes

Depending on the degree of nutrient content of the soil and its structure, the optimal fertilizer options are selected.

In the greenhouse

To get rid of possible pests in the greenhouse soil - it needs to be disinfected

You should start preparing the soil in the greenhouse in the fall. For starters it's worth get rid of all plant debris, pests and pathogens successfully winter with it.

To obtain vermicompost, it is recommended immediately after harvest plant siderates(such as mustard). By winter, they will grow up, and they can be cut off. It will be possible to evaluate the results of labor in the spring, the soil will be healed, cleaned of weeds and enriched with nutrients.

If outbreaks of diseases were noticed during the season, then the soil will need to be changed. For this, a 20-30 cm layer is completely removed and taken out of the greenhouse. All surfaces of the structure must be treated with fungicides. Additionally, a sulfur checker is used.

A new layer of healthy soil follows enrich with manure, compost or complex mineral fertilizers... The best soil mix for a greenhouse includes the following components:

• fertile garden land;
• peat;
• river coarse sand;
• compost;
• rotted manure.

In the spring, the greenhouse surfaces need to be cleaned again, and treat with a special solution(for example, Baikal-EM) for disinfection, and pour boiling water over the bed to warm up the earth.

2 weeks before planting seedlings, superphosphate (30 g), ammonium nitrate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (15 g) are introduced into the soil. Fresh manure is not used in spring, it provokes the growth of tops, slowing down the formation of fruits.

To get an early harvest, warm beds are arranged. With this technique, the landing dates are shifted 2-4 weeks earlier.

In the open field

A garden bed in the open field is also prepared in the fall. For this one should remove all plant debris and dig up the ground with the depth of immersion of the tool on the bayonet of the shovel. Simultaneously with digging introduce organic matter(compost, manure) at the rate of 6-8 kg per 1 m2.

In the spring, the bed is dug up again and 1-2 weeks before planting the seedlings processed with a hot solution of copper sulfate(for disinfection). So that the soil does not cool down, it is covered with a film before planting the seedlings.

During planting, a nutrient mixture is poured into each hole: humus, compost, peat, wood ash.

Rules for growing tomatoes to get a good harvest

Fertilizers

During the growing season, tomatoes are necessary feed several times, then you can significantly increase the yield.

In the open field the first portion is introduced a week after planting the seedlings. For this, a solution of 10 liters of water is more suitable, Art. l. nitrophosphate and 500 ml of liquid mullein. Each bush consumes about 0.5 liters.

The second time, complementary foods are introduced during the flowering period. At this stage, a solution of 10 liters of water, 500 ml of liquid chicken manure, art. l. superphosphate, tsp potassium sulfate.

After 10 days, the plant can be fed with a solution based on Agricola Vegeta or Signor Tomato. After another 10-14 days, the beds are enriched with a product based on 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. potassium humate (or sodium).

In the greenhouse the first feeding is applied to the holes when planting seedlings, the hole is filled with compost, humus and wood ash.

The second portion of the nutrient mixture is introduced after 2-3 weeks. Fertilizers are diluted in the Bucket of water: nitrogen (25 gr.), Potash (15 gr.), Phosphoric (40 gr.). 1 liter of working solution is poured under each bush.

The next top dressing is applied during the period of mass flowering. From nutritional mixtures, a composition based on water (10 l), liquid mullein (500 ml) and potassium sulfate (15 g) is suitable. 1-1.5 liters of liquid is poured under each bush.

Subsequent procedures are carried out at intervals of 10-14 days (nitrophoska, potassium humate and other agents are used).

Bush formation

In order for the plant not to waste energy in vain, it is recommended to form bushes into 1, 2, 3 stems.

The main stem extends from the root, from it leaves below, in the axils of which stepchildren are formed. Thanks to them, the plant branches out, taking on most of the nutrients.

The whole process proceeds to the detriment of the formation of ovaries and fruits due to lack of nutrition. therefore stepchildren must be removed every 5 days, and form a tomato with a certain number of stems.

This procedure is performed regardless of where the crop is grown, whether it is open ground or a greenhouse.

Proper watering

Irrigation in open beds is carried out 1-2 times a week... In hot dry weather, watering frequency increases up to 3-4 times... However, the decisive factor is the degree of soil moisture. The increased moisture content provokes the development of fungal infections, so you should not get carried away with irrigation.

In the greenhouse, irrigation rates are regulated depending on the humidity of the air and soil. As a rule, procedures are carried out using a drip or underground irrigation system.

Loosening and mulching

To enrich the soil with oxygen and prevent the formation of a crust in greenhouses and open ground, loosening is carried out, which is often combined with weeding.

The first procedure is carried out after the first watering with immersion in the ground to a depth of 8-10 cm. Subsequent loosening provides for a deepening of 3-4 cm. The frequency of activities is 3-4 times per season, but until the moment the bushes grow. After complete formation, unnecessary passages between plants can injure them.

In the greenhouse, the first loosening is also done after watering. Subsequent procedures are carried out every 2 weeks until the rows close.

To retain moisture in the soil, tomato beds are mulched with dry straw, sawdust or peat.

The thickness of the interlayer should be within 6-7 cm(after the material has shrunk). Also used as mulch are: burlap, newsprint, chopped bark, dried cut grass, etc.

Secrets of growing tomatoes and getting a rich harvest of fruits

Each experienced gardener has his own secrets that guarantee high yields even in adverse weather conditions. The following tips stand out among the effective and interesting ones.

• To increase the yield during the flowering period of the second and third brush, it is recommended spray the plant with a boric acid-based solution(weak concentration). Boron promotes pollen germination, ovary formation and fruiting.
• Most tomatoes are self-pollinating. But under unfavorable conditions, the pollination process is poorly carried out, so the plant will not interfere with human help. For this you need a little shake the bush every 3-6 days.
• Mulching tomato beds prevents the soil from drying out and crusting on the soil surface. In addition, mulch reduces the growth rate of weeds - the main enemy of vegetable crops.
• Autumn soil preparation provides an increase in yield if compost, manure in combination with peat are used as fertilizers.
• For many gardeners, grazing remains an undeveloped activity, therefore, not everyone can get fruits with the characteristics described on the seed label. Removing useless shoots redirects the flow of food and energy towards the formation of large tomatoes. In addition, they have time to mature before the end of the season.

In general, agricultural technology is not complicated, although it has some features, but it is quite possible to increase the yield. After gaining experience in growing tomatoes, you can reasonably make your own adjustments and developments in the care rules, and then share with them on the forums.