Any, even very beloved, things are short-lived. Here are my cycling gloves, which have served faithfully for many years, one not-too-beautiful day tore. I really didn’t want to go to the other end of the city for new ones, but suitable leather, tools and materials turned out to be at hand. The thought has ripened: why not try to sew gloves yourself?

Conceived - done. In this article we will tell you how to sew short leather gloves.

Building a pattern of short gloves

It all started with finding the right pattern. Unfortunately, nothing was found on the Internet for short fingerless gloves. There were only patterns of models with long fingers. Well, this defect had to be corrected on its own. With the help of old gloves, a lot of calculations and recalculations, I made my own pattern, although it didn’t work out the first time.

The main pattern turned out to be fingerless gloves (plus 3 more details for sewing between the fingers, which will be discussed below).

I wear size S (hand circumference 18 cm).

You can draw the pattern yourself, you just have to take into account the size ratio.

• the width of the glove along the line of the pads is 3 cm larger than the hand
• the width of each "finger" of the glove is 2 times wider than the finger of the hand
• the place under the thumb should be 2.5 times wider than the finger (if it is too narrow here, it will be problematic to remove the glove)

We cut out the pattern from a sheet of A4 paper folded in half.

You can determine the size by measuring the circumference of the palm of the pads, as shown in the photo.

The resulting number is compared with the size table.

Men's gloves

Ladies gloves

Tools and materials for sewing short leather gloves

For sewing gloves, we need tools and materials:

• Pen, ruler
• Scissors or utility knife
• Awl, marker
• Hole puncher
• Needle with thread
• Buttons
• The actual skin

The skin should be soft, not thick (0.8 - 2 mm thick), elastic. It should stretch slightly, not tear from any effort, have a durable outer coating or color (so that it does not rub off on the steering wheel), and not slip. for work described in my previous material.

For the gloves I used 1.5mm thick pigskin.

Before cutting out details from the leather according to the pattern, it is worth trying on the pattern on your hand to make sure that the dimensions are correct. The seam along the line of the thumb and forefinger should converge.

If everything is fine, we proceed to the transfer of the pattern to the skin. Do not forget that there are 2 gloves and both blanks should be circled.

We lay it out in full width and circle with a ballpoint pen (you can use soap or a special marker for fabric) a template from the wrong side of the material.

The skin should lie flat, not be stretched or, conversely, gather into folds.

Carefully cut out our future gloves. We fold, check that nothing protrudes anywhere, and the lines converge on the hand as expected.

After that, we mark 3 parts that will be sewn between the fingers. All three different lengths:

• the part between the index and middle fingers - 2×5cm (1)
• part between the middle and ring fingers - 2 × 4.5 cm (2)
• part between the middle and little fingers - 2 × 4.7 cm (3)

We cut out 2 pieces of each part.

A complete set of blanks for gloves is ready.

Sewing gloves

Let's move on to marking holes and lines for sewing seams. If you have a sewing machine that can sew on leather, everything is much easier. It is enough just to sew the necessary parts together.

First, mark out the rectangular parts. Holes should be made at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge with a gap between them of 3-4 mm. We mark the holes with a marking wheel, then with an awl. If you don’t have a special tool, you can mark up using a regular ruler.

Then you should mark the holes on the gloves themselves. We carefully monitor that the blanks do not move apart and do not move to the sides.

When everything is marked, we proceed to the firmware of the details.

If your skin is soft and thin enough, you can sew it from the wrong side. But if the skin is denser than 1 mm, it is better to immediately sew from the front side, then the seams will not interfere with the fingers, press anywhere, bulge and affect the inner size of the gloves.

We start sewing from the bottom, from the thumb. The needle passes through the holes in a “dotted line”, then turns around and goes back, closing the gaps.

First we fasten the thread from the wrong side.

Then we move on to the firmware. We carefully monitor that there are no extra gaps between the holes, the thread is well stretched everywhere, the skin does not go in folds and does not move out of its place.

We reach the end of the line (upper part of the thumb), fasten the thread and go back.

Returning to the beginning of the seam, we also fix the thread, bring it to the wrong side, cut it, and glue the edge carefully so that it does not stick out.

After that, we sew the part between the thumb and forefinger.

With due diligence, the seam is smooth and neat.

We try on the sewn part again: was everything marked correctly and is it comfortable for the thumb.

If everything is fine, we proceed to stitching the rest of the glove. We take the first rectangle (1), bend it in half with the front parts to each other and insert gloves between the index and middle fingers. On the index finger should be a "triangle".

After making sure that all parts fit together and nothing protrudes anywhere (if it does, the excess needs to be cut off), we begin to sew.

Particular attention should be paid to this recess between the fingers - the skin there should lie perfectly evenly, the seam should be tight, otherwise the fingers will be uncomfortable, and the gloves will wear out quickly.

We sew the seam, as usual, in both directions, fasten the thread, cut off the excess. We sew on the other side.

In the same way, we sew the two remaining parts between the middle and ring fingers and the ring and little fingers.

Reminder: the most important thing is to follow the correct arrangement of the parts to be sewn - the front side is directed in the right direction and the edges are without distortions (so as not to sew the left side to the right side or vice versa).

After both gloves are sewn, we try on our creation. The hand should be comfortable, the seams should not interfere, and the fingers should bend freely. Over time, the skin will still stretch and take the shape of a hand.

Glove decor

Since we have cycling gloves, mostly for the summer, they need to be lightened and ventilation added. Yes, and it will be much easier to remove them with a clasp on the wrist.

We outline where we should have a button and cut a strip of leather right on the top of the glove. Strip 1 cm wide (according to the size of the button).

For better ventilation, we also make a round hole in gloves, expecting that it should be located 2-3 cm below the knuckles (when the fist is bent) with an indent of 1.5-2 cm on each side of the palm.

We put it on the hand, tighten it on the brushes, mark where the button should be located.

After that, we make two holes with a hole punch: under the top and bottom of the button.
Using the installer, we fix the buttons (you can use improvised tools - a pin of the desired diameter and a hammer, but this is not very convenient).

We connect the front part of the “hat” button with the bottom part, which is in the form of a “donut” on the longer part of the strip that we cut out.

We fix them with a button installer.

In the same way we fix the lower part of the button.

We put the upper and lower parts tightly on top of each other: the pin from below, the button from above.

We check whether everything is well connected and whether it works correctly. Several times open - close the button.

At the end, you can make additional perforation in a semicircle above the cut hole to provide additional ventilation. To do this, we make the same holes at regular intervals (about 1-1.5 cm) with a hole punch.

We perform similar operations with the second glove.

After the final fitting, you can go for a ride without fear for the safety of your hands.

A few notes:

1. The skin tends to stretch, so even if you initially miscalculated a little with the size, everything may not be so critical.
2. Gloves should not be wetted. Water can stain their hands. And if you got caught in the rain on a bike and rode for a while, the gloves will then take the form of hands on the steering wheel.
3. If you ride a lot and under the sun, a “bicycle” tan appears on the back of your hand, which will come down only by winter.

So, cycling gloves, what should they be? They should breathe well and absorb moisture. For most, it will be difficult to decide which cycling gloves to choose: with fingers or cut off. It is logical that fingerless gloves will breathe better and for infrequent bike rides this will be the best option. And if you prefer extreme skiing, then it is better to choose full gloves, which provide better protection for the entire hand, including fingers.

Of course, choosing gloves “by beauty” or by the color of the bike is the last thing. First of all, you need to choose their size. And it is worth trying on bicycle gloves from different manufacturers - everyone sews differently. Before buying gloves, be sure to measure. Dress, spread your fingers - you should not press anywhere. Cycling gloves should not be tight-fitting. Ideally, you need to grab the steering wheel and make sure that nothing is pressing anywhere, and the helium inserts (if any) are under the protruding parts of the palm.

When choosing closed cycling gloves (with fingers) make sure that there is about 3-6 mm left in each finger. At a shorter distance, the fingers will freeze, and at a greater distance, the gloves will look untidy. It is logical that only closed gloves are suitable for winter, but you should not buy very warm ones. They also need to breathe well so that their hands do not sweat so much.

If your bike has wide soft grips, then gloves should be chosen thinner and without helium inserts. Conversely, with hard thin grips or handlebar wraps, cycling gloves should be softer (and this will also better protect and soften the impact when falling) with foam padding or helium inserts.

The lower part of cycling gloves is usually made of suede, it is good when there is an additional patch between the thumb and forefinger (otherwise it will quickly rub off). The upper is made from synthetic, highly wicking and breathable fabrics. On top there may still be additional rubber niches to protect against branches and everything that you have to face when driving over bumps). You can also find seals with terry inserts on the back, they are needed to wipe sweat from the forehead, which is undoubtedly a useful feature in hot weather.

It is worth paying attention to the Velcro on the clasp - it must be made with high quality, because. you will often unfasten and fasten it, and the worse the quality, the faster it will stop fastening. Sometimes, to make it easier to take off, cycling gloves have loops between the fingers.

But you should not rely only on gloves, you should change the grip of the steering wheel every 15-20 minutes to avoid numbness of the hands, and every half hour it would be good to completely remove your hands from the steering wheel and shake them to disperse the blood. Happy riding and soft landings!

The right model of cycling gloves will not only improve the grip of the steering wheel and insure against fractures during a fall, but also relieve problems such as calluses, rough skin and numbness after a long ride.

Types of cycling gloves

• Mittens- one-piece model in which there is a separate hole only for the thumb. The design is used for winter options.
• Reinforced– the model is equipped with additional latches, inserts and fasteners made of durable materials and plastic, protecting hands from slipping and injury. Used in extreme cycling.
• Classic- standard gloves with compartments for each finger.
• Mitts- Fingerless gloves. Allows you to easily shift gears, brake and hold the handles. In mittens, the hands are constantly ventilated, so they do not sweat.

Specifications

The complete set and properties of the accessory depend on the season. Allocate winter and summer options.

Summer models have the following characteristics:

• ease;
• breathable material;
• open fingers;
• moisture absorption;
• additional inserts that protect fingers and wrists from injuries and bruises.

The winter accessory meets the following set of criteria:

• layering - layers of leather, textiles and foam retain heat;
• density;
• frost protection - models are different depending on weather conditions;
• convenience - despite the high density, the fingers should bend easily and be free.

Demi-season models should be warm and breathable, but their main functions are water resistance and protection from dirt and wind. For this, synthetic products with leather inserts are suitable.

Most often, cycling gloves are made from the following materials:

• Leather - individual elements made of natural material are sewn on the folds of the palm and on the fingertips. Leather creates the effect of natural grip of the palm on the steering wheel and protects the surface of the hands from abrasions.
• Leatherette - synthetic coatings, which in their properties resemble natural leather.
• Gortex is a membrane fabric that is made from Teflon. Differs in high waterproof quality and vapor removal, from which the skin of the hands does not fog up.

• Neoprene and fleece are dense materials that do not allow moisture, cold and air to pass through. Used for sewing warm winter items.
• Airmesh is a 3D woven synthetic mesh.
• Nylon and spandex are synthetic materials used in sportswear. Tightly adhere to the skin, taking the form of hands, and accumulate excess moisture. An indispensable material for the manufacture of summer gloves.
• Gel and carbon - are used as separate protective inserts.

High-quality specimens are combined models sewn from several layers of different materials in terms of texture and properties. This makes them durable and practical to use.

Modern models can have nice bonuses that will make their operation easier:

• The ability to work with a touch screen will be useful in conditions harsh winter when being outside with bare hands is not possible.
• Moisture protection - a special coating prevents the penetration of liquid inside, which is useful in the rainy season.
• Protective inserts for joints made of polymeric materials will protect the knuckles from bruises and scratches during a fall.
• Terry inserts on the back are made in summer models so that the cyclist in the heat can wipe sweat from his forehead.
• Reflective elements are useful for traveling at night.

• Integrated turn signals are indicators that respond to hand movements while driving. When turning the arm, an arrow lights up on it, indicating the direction of the cyclist for other participants. traffic.
• Loops between the fingers facilitate the process of fastening and unfastening.
• Anti-slip coating is useful for those who have smooth handlebars, without shock-absorbing and massage nozzles.
• Stitched ring and index fingers will insure against fracture during a fall.

Flaws

• Products are capricious in care and require thorough cleaning.
• Frequent washing, in turn, leads to wear and tear.
• An incorrectly selected model hinders movement.
• In winter gloves, it is difficult to shift gears and apply the brakes.
• Accessories are short-lived and require replacement every season.
• On sale there are no universal models that would be suitable for all weather conditions and seasons.

Otherwise, it is a safe and easy-to-use thing that does not cause discomfort and trouble to the owner.

How to choose cycling gloves

Color, appearance and the design of the equipment is the last thing you should pay attention to when buying a product. The priority is the convenience, strength and functionality of the model:

• Winter models should not be too tight - this provokes profuse sweating.
• In closed gloves, there should be 3-5 free millimeters in the compartment for each finger. If more, they will look untidy; if less, the fingers will be cold and uncomfortable.

• It is worth giving preference to materials that allow air to pass through.
• For the mountain with massive soft-coated handles, thin gloves or mitts without silicone inserts are suitable.
• If the bike is city or walking, with hard plastic handles, gloves should be tight, with foam filling and additional protective inserts.

• The wrist cuff should be made of soft suede.
• It is preferable that an insert made of genuine leather or other dense material be sewn between the thumb and forefinger - this part is easily erased and stretched.
• The upper part should be made of synthetic fabrics with good flow properties.
• Rubber inserts and patches on the knuckles will protect them from the blows of branches while riding through the forest.

• For extreme cyclists, closed counterparts made of dense materials with silicone inserts on the palms and back are suitable.
• Ventilation in the form of perforated leather and mesh materials will be relevant in the summer.
• The clasp should be strong, preferably with Velcro.

Each manufacturer has an individual dimensional grid, so before buying it is advisable to try on the model in the store, guided by the following rules:

• The winter model should be one size larger - this will allow you to wear another pair of textiles under the bottom for additional insulation.
• Going to the store is at the end of the working day - at this time, the limbs swell a little and increase in size.
• Every person different shape brushes, so the guideline should be not only the length of the fingers, but the location of the stripes and inserts - they must be in place.

• The clasp on the wrist should fit snugly and be with a margin in both directions.
• There should be a few free millimeters between the compartments for the fingers.

If it is not possible to make a fitting, you can order the goods through the online store, having previously made the following measurements:

• palm width;
• wrist girth;
• the distance from the brush to the tip of the middle finger;
• middle finger length.

Having these measurements and the manufacturer's size chart, you can easily determine the size. The international system uses a simplified method - the girth of the palm near the thumb in centimeters is divided by 2.54. The resulting number is the circumference of the arm in inches.

How to use bike gloves

In order for the accessory to last as long as possible and not lose its properties, it is important to adhere to the following care rules:

• Washing after each use will help to avoid the accumulation of dirt and germs.
• Can't use strong chemical substances and hot water. It is enough to manually rinse the product in warm water with soap.
• Remove excess moisture by squeezing your hand. Twisting is strictly prohibited - this will change the structure of the working material and weaken the seams.

If the product is made of hard fabric and contains plastic parts, it is gently blotted with a dry terry towel.

• You need to store in a dry place, protected from direct sunlight, in a cotton bag or in a box with soft walls.
• Do not dry under the influence high temperatures or in dryers- from this cycle gloves will lose their shape and decrease in size.

• Leather inserts coarsen and deform over time. To prevent this from happening, they need to be regularly moisturized with special creams.
• After washing, the surface is treated with a water-repellent agent for additional protection from rain.
• To gently remove dirt from the surface, gloves are put on hands and lathered under a stream of water, simulating hand washing.

It is necessary to dry the product exclusively in a dark place in a natural way, which will take more than a day. If the cyclist does not have a change of equipment, instead of washing, the gloves are wrapped in a damp towel and left for 3-4 hours.

Then wipe dry and leave to dry until morning.

Before putting on gloves, you need to make sure that your hands are dry and clean. The clasp on the wrist should not be pulled too tight - this will lead to its deformation and limit blood flow.

This is not critical for short distances, but at a marathon or while traveling, it will cause discomfort and immobilize the hand.

The minimum warranty period for cycling gloves is 1 month, but it can be longer depending on the manufacturer and type of model:

• Guarantee for products made of genuine leather - at least 40 days.
• European manufacturers provide a guarantee for a period of three months to six months.
• Equipment from companies that produce goods for professional athletes has a warranty line of up to one year.

If during this period the buyer has found malfunctions or defects in gloves, he can return them back or exchange them for a high-quality analogue if he adhered to the following operating rules:

• The product was correctly sized and used for its intended purpose.
• Seasonal gloves were worn in the weather for which they were designed. For example, textile gloves should not be worn in the rain or in the cold, and reinforced gloves in the summer heat.
• Gloves were used while cycling and not on other vehicles.
• The buyer kept the warranty card and receipt of payment.

The warranty for seasonal gloves comes into effect from the moment the seasonal period begins and lasts for the period specified in the warranty card or in accordance with the following standards:

• Winter season - from November 15 to March 15.
• Summer season - from May 15 to September 15.

When contacting the store, the buyer must provide a receipt.

Due to frequent washing, gloves wear out quickly and tear in the most fragile places: between compartments, on the palm and at the wrist. Minor problems can be solved by yourself.

Downsizing and deformation

• Soft leather and textiles can be stretched in this way: after washing from gloves, they absorb excess moisture with terry cloth, and then they are left to dry in a dark place protected from the sun.

When the product is 90% dry, put it on your hands a little wet and hold it for 20-40 minutes.

• Alcohol or cologne is sprayed in a thin layer on the inside of the product, and then put on and worn until the moisture has completely evaporated.
• To stretch and shape the hands of leatherette, leather and neoprene products, hands are smeared with glycerin or cream, and dressed until absorbed;

The gloves can only be stretched one size without damaging the seams.

stretched gloves

To reduce the size, the seals are washed with shampoo and then dipped in hot water for a few minutes. Then they are left to dry, and the leather parts or the entire surface are smeared with a moisturizer.

This method should be resorted to last, because it leads to the appearance of cracks and creases on the surface.

Worn insert between thumb and forefinger

A common problem that occurs due to constant friction between the index finger and thumb.

In high-quality models, there is a special suede insert in this place - if it is not there, you can sew on a patch or replace the existing one in the atelier with a more durable one.

Worn pads

This defect cannot be repaired, so damaged gloves can be turned into mitts by cutting off the torn ends and hemming them.

Velcro stretched

The fastener or Velcro on the wrist can eventually come off or stretch so much that it ceases to be fixed on the hand. An additional fastener or replacement with a new Velcro can fix this.

Opened seams along the contour of the fingers

First you need to unscrew the gloves and carefully, using a blade, cut the seams, removing the cut threads with tweezers.

Warm models with a flannelette lining and large inserts cannot be turned inside out, therefore, in order to get to the seams, it is necessary to open the side seam under the lining.

The seams are stitched with strong threads, pushing them through the old punctures. Then the lateral incision is sewn under the lining.

Manufacturers of cycling gloves

An Italian brand that produces universal cycling gloves that are designed for all weather conditions. The model range is wide: from lightweight textiles to reinforced warm items.

The materials used are high-tech breathable fabrics with additional perforations: Airmesh, Gore-Tex and rubberized TPR material. Reinforced seams protect against rips, and stretchy Lycra inserts ensure arm mobility.

The brand offers a wide range of accessories for all weather conditions - 11 summer models and 10 winter ones. A huge advantage is the availability of copies for children and adolescents, which take into account the structure of the hand.

In summer models, the back of the hand is made of perforated leather, which provides airflow, and additional elastic elements between the fingers are made of innovative Clarino textile, which makes wearing comfortable.

Winter counterparts are made using Far InfraRed technology, which helps keep you warm during long marathons.

Bright and stylish design distinguishing feature this brand. Each model is presented in 5-6 colors, from classic black to bright neon colors.

The manufacturer's priority is a combination of high functionality and ease of wear, so the models are not bulky and compact.

Cube has a network of service centers that provide parts replacement and repair services for products that are damaged under the warranty period.

Large selection of men's, women's and teenage products for all seasons. Simple models for winter are made of natural wool, the back side has a rubber coating that provides a strong grip and slip protection.

Summer open options are made in a retro design, but have a modern filling: breathable fabrics that absorb moisture; 3D mesh for air circulation and perforated nylon on the outside.

Weatherproof models are protected against dirt and moisture, while silicone fingertips guarantee a strong grip even in the rain.

Large manufacturer of sporting goods from Russia. Summer mitts are made of natural suede and textiles, and are also equipped with inserts and foam material with shock-absorbing and protective properties.

Warm gloves boast terry elements and strong fasteners for additional fastening in cold weather.

The advantages of the brand are a 1-year warranty, service from the official manufacturer and a wide dimensional grid.

Special loops are sewn on the cuffs for a strong fixation on any hand, and the technology of the compartments sewn together between the fingers protects against fracture.

The company offers customers a wide choice in all price categories - from affordable textiles to reinforced ones with gel inserts, additional seams and joint protection.

Equipment from this brand is focused on a strong grip on the steering wheel and cushioning. Soft, non-slip Serino fabric on the back of the hand fits snugly and conforms to the shape of the hand, while Lycra provides comfort and mobility.

The main differences of the company are affordable prices and bright design.

A modern cyclist must be fully equipped, like a medieval knight - a helmet, an "iron horse" and, of course, special gloves. When riding, heavy loads fall on the hands that control the bike, shift gears, and brake. Due to the unevenness of the road, vibrations and shocks are transmitted to the hands, calluses are rubbed on the palms from constant contact with the steering wheel handles, and if the steering wheel is not gripped correctly, numbness of the fingers or hands may occur. Falls can also cause serious injury to the hands. For these reasons, the cyclist's hands must be protected by cycling gloves.

Cycling gloves can be with cut fingers or completely closed. The choice depends on their purpose. If you are thinking about cycling

or just ride a bike, then gloves with cut off fingers are suitable - the hand “breathes” in them. Extreme cycling requires fully enclosed gloves that protect the entire hand and fingers well, even when in contact with thin protruding objects. There are also winter breathable cycling gloves with insulation. They are knitted, fleece, neoprene, semi-gloves. Very warm bike gloves make your hands sweat and get cold. You can wear thin gloves under the main gloves that will absorb excess moisture.

The working surfaces of bicycle gloves are made of leather or leatherette, and top part made of spandex, lycra or other material that wicks moisture well and, due to its elasticity, fits snugly on the hand. For fixing on the hand on the wrist of the glove there is either a wide elastic band or Velcro. Some cycling gloves have terry inserts on the back - to, if necessary, wipe the face from sweat. Such gloves need to be washed more often, because. they quickly become soiled from wiping the face.

Cycling gloves come in different sizes and even gloves of the same size from different manufacturers can vary in fullness. When buying bicycle gloves, it is better to try on products from different manufacturers, choosing the most optimal size for yourself. Spread your fingers in a cycling glove, determine if it makes it difficult to move. If the glove is too tight, it can lead to poor circulation and numbness in the hand. When trying on cycling gloves with fully closed fingers, pay attention to the fact that the fingers go almost to the end, leaving only a small gap, no more than 3-6 mm, so that they do not freeze. It is best to buy cycling gloves in the evening, when the hands swell a little and it would not be bad to grab the handlebars of the bicycle in the chosen glove in order to determine it in case of any discomfort.

Bicycle gloves, like other equipment, serve many purposes. They not only help your hands feel comfortable when riding a bicycle, but first of all they protect the skin of the hands from friction, and also perform protective functions in dangerous situations - in case of falls and bumps.

There are two types of cycling gloves, each with its own characteristics. The first type is gloves with open fingers. Many cyclists find them more comfortable. Such gloves, which partially cover the hand and, as a result, have lower safety characteristics, are suitable for relaxed cycling. This is a good option for summer out-of-town trips, wearing open gloves is both comfortable and not hot.

If you prefer high-speed sports biking or overcoming difficult mountain biking trails, then the second option of gloves is more suitable for you - gloves that completely cover the hand. They are good for winter and off-season, protecting hands not only from the cold, but also from rain and snow.
The cost of cycling gloves ranges from $ 15 to $ 60, while the rule “the more expensive the better” does not always work. Sometimes economy gloves provide maximum comfort and fit your hands better than expensive ones..

The lower part of cycling gloves is usually made of suede, it is good when there is an additional patch between the thumb and forefinger (otherwise it will quickly rub off). The upper is made from synthetic, highly wicking and breathable fabrics. On top there may still be additional rubber niches to protect against branches and everything that you have to face when driving over bumps). You can also find seals with terry inserts on the back, they are needed to wipe sweat from the forehead, which is undoubtedly a useful feature in hot weather.

It is worth paying attention to the Velcro on the clasp - it must be made with high quality, because. you will often unfasten and fasten it, and the worse the quality, the faster it will stop fastening. Sometimes, to make it easier to take off, cycling gloves have loops between the fingers (see picture).
But you should not rely only on gloves, you should change the grip of the steering wheel every 15-20 minutes to avoid numbness of the hands, and every half hour it would be good to completely remove your hands from the steering wheel and shake them to disperse the blood.

From the loads transmitted to the hand from the steering wheel, the gasket protects - one of the very important parts of bicycle gloves. They are made from isoprene. There are also gel pads. Such gaskets protect the hands as much as possible, prevent friction between the hand and the steering wheel. This is important when doing trials, when the grip on the steering wheel must be very reliable. Isoprene gaskets are cheaper and quite flexible. If the bicycle handles are good, but the hands are not high sensitivity, it is enough to purchase bicycle gloves with foam pads.

First we need to decide what type of gloves we need - open or closed. That is, with cut off fingers or not.
In open gloves, the hand breathes better, it is not so hot in them, it is more convenient to slow down, and it is more comfortable to switch gears. But the disadvantage is that in cold weather, the fingertips will freeze, and when falling, respectively, the hands are less protected. This type is suitable for people who just like to ride sometimes and cyclists.
An indisputable plus of closed gloves is best protection when falling and in cold weather, they are warmer. This type is more useful for people practicing various cycling tricks, as well as those involved in extreme cycling.
Gloves should not press anywhere. In order to understand if this is your size, spread your fingers apart, squeeze - unclench your fist and, if possible, grab the handlebars of a bicycle. BUT! When trying on closed gloves, pay attention to the fact that the fingers go all the way in, so that the gap is a maximum of a few millimeters (no more than 5), otherwise it will be cold.

What's next? Material. The bottom layer (the side of the palm) is most often covered with leather, leatherette, and the upper part is made of spandex. Also, isoprene inserts are added to the working side (side of the palm), which gives maximum comfort and reduces the level of vibrations.

1. Task 1 of 15

   1 .

   Are the Rules violated in the situations depicted?

   Right
   

   f) tow bicycles;

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   d) hold on to another vehicle while driving;

   f) tow bicycles;

2. Task 2 of 15

   2 .

   Which cyclist does not break the rules?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   b) move on motorways and roads for cars, as well as on the carriageway, if there is a bicycle path nearby;

3. Task 3 of 15

   3 .

   Who must give way?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.5. If the cycle path crosses the road outside the intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles moving on the road.

4. Task 4 of 15

   4 .

   What loads are allowed to be carried by a cyclist?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   22. Shipping

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.4. A cyclist may only carry loads that do not interfere with the cycling and do not obstruct other road users.

   22. Shipping

   22.3. Carriage of cargo is permitted provided that it:

   b) does not violate the stability of the vehicle and does not complicate its management;

5. Task 5 of 15

   5 .

   Which cyclist violates the Rules when carrying passengers?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   e) carry passengers on a bicycle (with the exception of children under 7 years of age who are transported on an additional seat equipped with securely fastened footrests);

6. Task 6 of 15

   6 .

   In what order will the vehicles pass through the intersection?

   

   Right
   

   16. Passage of intersections

   
   

   Not properly
   

   16. Passage of intersections

   16.11. At the intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving along a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways along the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

   16.12. At the intersection of equivalent roads, the driver of a non-rail vehicle must give way to vehicles approaching from the right.
   This rule should be guided by each other and tram drivers. At any unregulated intersection, a tram, regardless of the direction of its further movement, has an advantage over non-rail vehicles approaching it along an equivalent road.

   16.14. If the main road changes direction at an intersection, drivers of vehicles moving along it must be guided by the rules for passing intersections of equivalent roads.
   This rule should be guided by each other and drivers moving on secondary roads.

7. Task 7 of 15

   7 .

   Cycling on sidewalks and footpaths:

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.6. The cyclist is prohibited from:

   c) move along sidewalks and footpaths (except for children under 7 years old on children's bicycles under adult supervision);

8. Task 8 of 15

   8 .

   Who has the right of way at the intersection with the bike lane?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.5. If the cycle path crosses the road outside the intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles moving on the road.

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.5. If the cycle path crosses the road outside the intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles moving on the road.

9. Task 9 of 15

   9 .

   What distance should be between groups of cyclists moving in a column?

   

   Right
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   Not properly
   

   6. Requirements for cyclists

   6.3. Cyclists, moving in groups, must ride one after another so as not to interfere with other road users. A column of cyclists moving along the carriageway should be divided into groups (up to 10 cyclists in a group) with a distance of 80-100 m between groups.

10. Task 10 of 15

    10 .

    Vehicles will pass the intersection in the following order

    

    Right
    

    16. Passage of intersections

    16.11. At the intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving along a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways along the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

    Not properly
    

    16. Passage of intersections

    16.11. At the intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving along a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways along the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

    16.13. Before turning left and making a U-turn, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the opposite direction, as well as to vehicles moving on an equivalent road in the opposite direction straight or to the right.

11. Task 11 of 15

    11 .

    The cyclist passes the intersection:

    

    Right
    

    16. Passage of intersections

    Not properly
    

    8. Traffic regulation

    8.3. The signals of the traffic controller take precedence over traffic signals and traffic signs and are mandatory. Traffic lights, except for flashing yellow, take precedence over road signs of priority. Drivers and pedestrians must comply with the additional requirements of the traffic controller, even if they contradict traffic signals, traffic signs and markings.

    16. Passage of intersections

    16.6. When turning left or turning around at the green signal of the main traffic light, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as vehicles moving in the opposite direction straight or turning right. This rule should be guided by each other and tram drivers.

12. Task 12 of 15

    12 .

    Flashing red signals of this traffic light:

    

    Right
    

    8. Traffic regulation

    Not properly
    

    8. Traffic regulation

    8.7.6. To regulate traffic at railway crossings, traffic lights with two red signals or one white-lunar and two red signals are used, having the following meanings:

    a) flashing red signals prohibit the movement of vehicles through the crossing;
    

    b) a flashing white-moon signal indicates that the alarm system is working and does not prohibit the movement of vehicles.

    At railway crossings, simultaneously with a prohibitory traffic signal, it can be turned on sound signal, additionally informing road users about the prohibition of movement through the crossing.

13. Task 13 of 15

    13 .

    Which vehicle driver will pass the intersection second?

    

    Right
    

    16. Passage of intersections

    16.11. At the intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving along a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways along the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

    16.14. If the main road changes direction at the intersection, the drivers of vehicles moving along it must be guided by the rules for passing the intersections of equivalent roads.
    

    This rule should be guided by each other and drivers moving on secondary roads.

    Not properly
    

    16. Passage of intersections

    16.11. At the intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving along a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways along the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.

    16.14. If the main road changes direction at the intersection, the drivers of vehicles moving along it must be guided by the rules for passing the intersections of equivalent roads.
    

    This rule should be guided by each other and drivers moving on secondary roads.

    16 Crossings

    Not properly
    

    8. Traffic regulation

    8.7.3. Traffic lights have the following meanings:

    A signal in the form of an arrow, allowing a left turn, also allows a U-turn, if it is not prohibited by traffic signs.

    The signal in the form of a green arrow (arrows) in the additional (additional) section (sections), turned on together with a green traffic light, informs the driver that he has an advantage in the direction (directions) of movement indicated by the arrow (arrows) over vehicles moving from other directions;

    f) a red signal, including a flashing one, or two red flashing signals prohibit movement.

    The signal in the form of a green arrow (arrows) in the additional (additional) section (sections) together with a yellow or red traffic light signal informs the driver that movement is allowed in the indicated direction, provided that vehicles moving from other directions are allowed to pass unhindered.

    The green arrow on the plate, installed at the level of the red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals, allows movement in the indicated direction with the red traffic light on from the rightmost lane (or the leftmost lane on one-way roads), subject to the provision of an advantage in traffic to its other participants moving from other directions to a traffic light signal allowing movement;

    16 Crossings

    16.9. While driving in the direction of the arrow switched on in the additional section at the same time as the yellow or red traffic light, the driver must give way to vehicles moving from other directions.

    While driving in the direction of the green arrow on the table set at the level of the red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals, the driver must take the extreme right (left) lane and give way to vehicles and pedestrians moving from other directions.