There are two answers to the frequently asked question about how to connect running lights. The first answer, the fastest, but not entirely economical, is to purchase branded car running lights, the connection diagram of which is fully reflected in the manufacturer's instructions.

How to connect daytime running lights yourself

The second option is to make daytime running lights yourself, spending more time, but significantly saving your family budget, since the manufacture and connection of daytime running lights running lights in this case, it will cost you at least two times cheaper, but you will also have to tinker. Since, with all the seeming ease that they write about on various web resources, connecting running lights requires certain knowledge of electrical engineering and the skills of an auto mechanic.

In both cases, no matter which version of the daytime running lights connection scheme you choose, first of all you will need information on regulatory requirements on what daytime running lights are, how to connect them, and how to operate them correctly . That is, you need to know the requirements of GOST R 41.48-2004, which covers the installation and operation of daytime running lights.

In accordance with the requirements of this GOST, the wiring diagram for running lights should provide automatic switching on and off of running lights, namely: “If installed, daytime running lights should turn on automatically when the engine start / stop control is brought to the “on” position. It shall be possible to activate and deactivate the operation of the automatic switching on of the daytime running lamps without the aid of a tool. Daytime running lights should turn off automatically when the headlights are turned on, except when the headlights are turned on for a short period of time to signal traffic participants.

Scheme of installation of daytime running lights from regular manufacturers, and the market today is dominated by Philips running lights and Hella running lights. quite simple, due to versatility. The kits already include connectors of the AMP series, which are installed according to the simple-click principle - with one click. That is, when purchasing such LED daytime running lights, the installation scheme is reduced to mounting the blocks on the car body.

But, this ease of installation is applicable to modern car models. And what about domestic cars or obsolete modifications? In this case, the optimal optional installation scheme for running lights, which is described in great detail in GOST. The technology for making daytime running lights with your own hands has already been described in the relevant topic.

Here you must understand for yourself that individually for each car, the scheme for switching on daytime running lights is different from each other. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to consult a specialist - an auto electrician.

Requirements for the daytime running lights

In the case when you will perform the second option for connecting running lights - with your own hands, you need to remember that in addition to the regulations for the optional installation of running lights, there is also a requirement for conversion. What are we talking about?

The scheme for switching on running lights, made independently, must avoid falling under the requirements of the same GOST R 41.48-2004, which says: "7.1 Any change in the type of vehicle or the installation of its lighting and light signaling devices or any change in the description referred to in 2.2.2 , shall be brought to the attention of the Certification Body which has issued the Type Conformity Certificate to the vehicle type. This body can:

• 7.1.1 either conclude that the changes made will not have a significant negative influence and the vehicle continues to comply with the requirements of this standard;
• 7.1.2 or require an additional report from the testing laboratory authorized to carry out the tests.”

These are the difficulties you may encounter, with the seeming ease of acquiring, manufacturing and installing car daytime running lights. But, if you think about it and calculate, then the indisputable advantages of LED equipment, plus the requirements of traffic rules, all lead to the need to install daytime running lights.

Good luck on the road, and in life too.

Here is such a tautology. But nevertheless, written, according to syntactic, spelling and semantic rules, has the right to life. Author's Note: A controller is an electronics control device; microcontroller - a miniature part of the controller based on an integrated circuit.

If your car is not equipped with standard daytime running lamps, and the use of headlights is too wasteful for you, Rules traffic The Russian Federation allows the use of fog lights to designate a vehicle during daylight hours.

But this option is rational only if the power of the bulbs in the fog lights is less than the power of the bulbs in the main headlights. If this is not the case, then the installation of DRL cannot be avoided. In general, at the moment, the installation of DRLs on a vehicle in operation is not mandatory, but by 2016, all vehicles must be equipped with daytime running lights.

As a result, the conclusion suggests itself - to unambiguously install DRL.

To do this, you can use the services of a specialized auto center, or you can independently perform this not very complicated operation. Of course, a lot depends on the car (the laboriousness of removing the dashboard and bumper) and on the origin of the DRL kit itself (factory production or homemade). It should be recalled that self-installed navigation lights must comply with the requirements of GOST R 41.48-2004 (UNECE Regulations No. 48 and No. 87) or clause 1.3.29 of Appendix No. 5 to the "Technical Regulations for the Safety of Wheeled Vehicles".

DRL controller based on relay

Most cars have stock factory fog lights. But not all drivers use them. The reasons are different: there is no need, the headlights are too voracious or simply inefficient. Here they can be converted into running lights. Light bulbs, of course, will have to be changed to LED-analogues (light-emitting diode). This will give good savings. energy and, importantly, will allow neglecting the consumed current when calculating the electrical mnemonic circuit.

Next, you will need to change the regular switching scheme. This is where you will need (with a high degree of probability) the removal of the dashboard and bumper. According to the reviews of the workers, this is done in a little over an hour. After gaining access to the onboard wiring, we switch everything as follows:

It is important to ensure the correct operation of the navigation lights: they must turn on when the ignition key is turned to the position that ensures the operation of the engine, and turn off when the dipped / main beam of the main headlights or parking lights (dimensions) is turned on. To do this, the size signal can be taken directly from the backlight of the button. So you will never forget to turn off the DRL. This scheme has been tested by many car owners and has no complaints.

But what to do if in the car access to the wiring inside the cabin is extremely difficult or even impossible? For a lazy car enthusiast with an uninquisitive mind, this will be a real obstacle. We need another solution. Consider the following option.

Variant on ATmega8

DRL lamps can be purchased separately, without a control module, at a reasonable price. There are already holes in the bumper (from fog lights), if not, cut it out. The entire installation consists in fixing the fixtures with four self-tapping screws. It's up to the controller. In the proposed version, consider the use of the "good old" ATmega8, an 8-bit Atmel microcontroller.

By the way, with its help it is also possible to implement additional functions, for example, an indication of the operation of the PZD, which tends to turn off when the car is running. The algorithm of the circuit on the ATmega8 is as follows: if the car is turned off, the battery voltage is less than 13.5 V, if it is turned on, it is charging, and the voltage is higher than 13.5 V.

Running lights turn on automatically .. From the connections 2 wires to the battery and 2 wires to the DRL. With careful installation, DRLs of the middle price category will fit very harmoniously into the exterior of the car.

There is another option for assembling a DRL control controller based on a comparator.

DRL controller circuit on the LM358 comparator

In this circuit, the comparator is implemented on the basis of a low-power two-channel operational amplifier LM358. The circuit turns out to be very cheap, besides, there is no need for a voltage regulator, the unipolar power supply of the LM358 is designed for 3 - 30 V, again, savings. circuit diagram below, everything is simple and clear.

The setting of this controller is reduced to setting the threshold for the operation of the circuit by the trimmer when the generator is running, i.e. when the voltage in the on-board network is higher than 13.5 V.

Everything is assembled very quickly, works reliably even in severe frost.

Review-review of the Chinese LED Daytime Running Lights control unit - LED DRL controller.

Daytime running lights should turn on when the car is moving (for example, when the engine is turned on), but at night they should be turned off (for example, when the headlights are turned on) or their brightness should be reduced to the level of the marker lights so as not to blind oncoming traffic. On the Internet, you can find many options for self-powered connection of DRLs to implement such an algorithm for the operation of lights, from the simplest ones, using the car’s standard electrics, to very fanciful ones, using electronic circuits with integral logic. In any case, with such a connection, intervention in the electrician of the machine is required, and this is far from always useful and safe.

It is much easier to connect DRLs through a ready-made control unit (controller) - they can also be found on the Internet without much difficulty: there are options for working with incandescent high beam headlights, there are just for working with LED DRL. There are also controllers for working with combined DRLs with turn indicators, the cost is about 8…10 c.u. in our country or in China, but there is - purely for DRL without frills: on AliExpress for just 3.5 c.u. It is about such a controller that our review will be.

Unboxing and first impressions

After shipment by the seller, the controller from China arrived after as much as 40 days, as it should be for products of this type and size, in a regular parcel package with a “pimple”. The control unit did not cause any special impressions and emotions: a sealed plastic box the size of Matchbox, wires for connection, fuse on the power wire - everything well done and well done.

Connection

Connecting the controller is elementary even for an average person who is not very versed in technology. We connect the output wires "OUT" to the DRLs themselves, the input wires "IN" to the power supply of the on-board network, for example, to the battery: red - to "plus", black to "minus". The yellow wire is used to control the brightness of the DRL - we connect it to the "plus" from the dipped beam. That's all: no shamanism with jumpers and switches, etc. - for everything about everything - 10 minutes with smoke breaks.

We check in action

The principle of operation of the controller is as simple as the corner of a house. If the on-board voltage is higher 13V(when the engine is running), the controller turns on the DRL, if the voltage drops below, it turns off the DRL with a delay of about 15 seconds. A small delay, apparently, was made so that the DRLs would not blink for no reason if your engine suddenly stalled when starting off or the voltage “dipped” for a short time. In reality, the duration of the pause to turn off the DRL after turning off the ignition can vary from a few seconds to a minute, depending on how quickly you reduce the voltage of the on-board network when you turn off the engine. If your DRL turns on / off somehow differently, this is an occasion to show the car to an auto electrician.

The voltage drop across the controller with DRLs on was only 0.23V- this is only 1.5% of the total power consumed by the lights.

To control the brightness, the yellow wire was connected to the low beam power of the left headlight. When the dipped beam is turned on, the total power supplied to my DRLs is reduced by almost 3 times, although visually from a distance of several meters this is not felt much. Even at 1 watt per headlight, DRLs are much brighter than parking lights.

When working with the yellow wire connected, there is a strange “jamb” in the behavior of the controller: if the lights are turned off (the engine is turned off) before applying to the yellow wire “+12”, after applying “+12” to it, for example, turn on the headlights, the lights turn on at full power . If you start the engine, the lights will go down as they should.

On the territory of the Russian Federation, for more than 8 years, amendments to the rules of the road (SDA) have been in force, according to which a moving vehicle during daylight hours must be indicated by dipped beam headlights, fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). The use of head and fog lamps for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made navigation light modules and install them on their own in their car. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict applicable laws?

The nuances of turning on running lights

The main requirements regarding the installation, technical parameters and connection of navigation lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional diagram of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights automatically turn on when the ignition key is turned (engine start). At the same time, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.

Paragraph 5.12 of this standard states that the headlights (FGS) should be turned on only after the dimensions are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs independently, this feature must be taken into account.

The correct connection of DRL is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, the resistors act as a current limiter, however, due to voltage drops, the resistors cannot limit the current at the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the navigation lights connection circuit is essential. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant changes in on-board voltage. Some motorists say that you can connect running lights without a stabilizer.

Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because DRLs on LEDs regularly shine for months without any stabilization ...

However, this assertion is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each power surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the direct current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the radiating crystal. The brightness of the LEDs is reduced, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task- warn drivers of oncoming vehicles from afar, and over time they will begin to flicker and fail.

Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means throwing away at least a few hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.

For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without the use of a stabilizer.

The simplest circuit

The most simple circuit turning on the DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the "+" terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in a convenient place. In this form, the scheme has a significant drawback. LED daytime running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of the other headlights, which means that they do not meet the requirements of GOST.

Switching on through the dimensions or dipped beam

The second version of the DRL connection scheme involves using the power supply circuit of the marker light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the navigation lights is directly connected to the "+" from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the "+" side light, which is currently electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the case, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp coil remains extinguished.
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the plus side of the marker, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.

This circuit solution has several disadvantages:

• running lights remain in operation when the engine is turned off, which is contrary to current regulations;
• the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
• the circuit will not work correctly if powerful SMD LEDs are placed in the DRL, the rated current of which is commensurate with the current of the light bulb;
• for safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.

This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the “+” of the battery, but to the “+” of the ignition switch, thereby getting rid of the first drawback.
Some motorists use circuits for switching on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, and in other cases they work. In addition to the above disadvantages, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic regulations.

When the car is parked at night, parking lights are used to indicate it, the use of DRL traffic rules is prohibited.

Connection via 4 contact relay from generator or oil sensor

The two following methods have a common basis and involve the operation of daytime running lights only after the engine is started. The DRL switching circuit from the generator is based on switching four contact relays and a reed switch.
DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:

• 85 - on the positive wire to the dimensions;
• 86 - to any output of the reed switch;
• 87 and the second output of the reed switch - to the "+" of the battery.

After checking the reliability of all contacts, proceed to the setting. To do this, start the engine and, moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its operation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermotube and fixed in the found place with the help of nylon ties.

At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and the relay are closed, supplying voltage to the LEDs of the running lights. At the same time, the indicator lamps remain off, since the current through the relay coil is small to ignite them.

In the absence of a reed switch, it is possible to power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, the 86th contact is connected to an oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated.
Both schemes have a common drawback. They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.

Connection via 5 pin relay

Now it's time to learn how to connect running lights through a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most universal, and is assembled in order to eliminate the shortcomings of the previous options.
First, about connecting the relay for DRL:

• 30 - to the positive terminals of the LED modules;
• 85 - on the positive wire of the marker lamp;
• 86 - on the car body;
• 87a - to "+" from the ignition switch;
• 87 - do not connect (isolate).

The circuit with five contact relays works as follows. When the key is turned, +12 V is supplied to the DRL, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close the inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRL will go out and the dimensions will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and SDA and can work with side lights even based on LEDs.

However, the scheme still has one negative point - DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition, but do not start the car, the DRLs will burn.

Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to properly connect the DRL through a five-pin relay, it will be necessary to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.

This switching option is interesting in that the current flow path through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in the headlights and DRLs.

DRL control unit

The most reliable and simplest is the option of connecting DRLs without a relay, but using a special running lights control unit. It ensures that the DRL is turned on after starting the engine, guarantees safe operation, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamps, including LED ones.

Unfortunately, among the whole variety of industrially manufactured DRL blocks, the vast majority does not comply with GOST and has a mediocre build quality.

This concerns, first of all, products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all respects.

Among all the variety, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight + DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight+ control unit was developed by the Russian radio engineer Fedor Isachenkov, taking into account all the features of the car's on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:

• there is a built-in voltage stabilization;
• full compliance with GOST;
• the maximum long-term load power is 36 watts (significantly less is required for DRL);
• the simplest wiring diagram.

In addition to the points described above, the DayLight + unit is universal and fits all cars with a 12-volt on-board network, and also has good build quality and a high degree protection against moisture and dust.
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the advantages of the DayLight + unit described above, however, German control units are only supplied with daytime running lights and are more expensive.

Read also

Many motorists have already heard about the benefits of DRL and are starting to look for a decent model in stores. The range is widely represented by Chinese junk costing from 300 to 5000 rubles. Some do not understand why put them on a car and buy rubbish for 500 rubles, which shines a little brighter than the dimensions, the power is 2 watts. Probably you have seen such ones, they still shine with blue light, and some of the LEDs are not lit or blinking. Then they have a problem, how to connect running lights so that they work longer. Garage craftsmen offer various DRL connection schemes, the most difficult thing is to choose the right one.

Common names to be used in the text: DRL "Daytime Running Lights", daytime running lights.

• 1. Types of connection
• 2. Mode of operation
• 3. How to connect DRL with control unit
• 4. DRL controller
• 5. Choose a stabilizer
• 6. Connection via relay
• 7. Other less popular methods
• 8. Checking the installation
• 9. An example of benefit

Connection types

DRL Eagle eye, eagle eye

The wiring diagram for navigation lights depends on the configuration and your budget. There are 3 types of equipment:

1. the most inexpensive, only DRL;
2. average in price, stabilizer included;
3. expensive, with a control controller.

If you have the cheapest and worst ones, then there is no controller or control unit included. Such a unit performs the function of a voltage stabilizer and control on and off.

In the middle configuration there is a voltage regulator for 12v. There are power surges in the car network, and the LEDs do not like this very much and fail. The stabilizer will significantly extend the life of the LEDs. But in this option, you will have to choose a place to connect so that they turn on only when the engine is running. There are many places for this, for example, an oil pressure sensor or a generator.

domestic model

The expensive version is equipped with a control unit that connects directly to the battery in the car. According to the principle of operation, they are of two types:

• determine the difference between the number of volts with the engine turned off and running;
• cheaper, this is the inclusion when the voltage rises above 13V.

The first option is the best, regardless of the voltage on your battery, always turn on and off correctly. The second option is budgetary and does not always work. With the engine off, the volts must drop below 13V for the controller to turn off the DRL. But if your battery is new or well charged, then even after the engine is stopped, the voltage on it will be higher than 13V for up to several hours. That is, the daytime running lights will not turn off on their own until there is less than 13V. The only drawback will be its own power consumption when the controller is waiting for the engine to start. It will discharge the battery along with the burglar alarm.

Working mode

According to the technical regulations for cars, DRL should automatically turn on when the engine is started. When you turn on the dipped beam, they should automatically turn off so as not to blind in the dark.

On sale there are also combined models with installed turn signals. The direction indicator duplication section is connected separately in parallel with the standard turn signals. Having a stable diet is also a must.

DRL with turn signal

For models with additional control, there is an accompanying backlight function that works for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off. It illuminates your path to the house or dugout, depending on where you live. Osram DRL has a mode in which they do not turn off, but dim by 50%. I just don’t know how legal it is and whether it will blind.

How to connect DRL with a control unit

DRL controller

I prefer the DRL connection scheme using the control unit, the most reliable way, suitable for any car and does not require any knowledge. Many motorists buy a DRL control unit from AliExpress - it is inexpensive, and the reviews seem to be good. However, most reviews are left either at the time of receipt of the goods, or after a few days of use. In fact, absolutely all DRL controllers from AliExpress are short-lived and have the following disadvantages:

1. the principle of operation does not comply with GOST;
2. no stabilization (in most);
3. poor quality of materials and assembly;
4. the features of the on-board network of the car are not taken into account;
5. no guarantee;
6. some are not waterproof.

Of the quality options, I can single out the DayLight + DRL control unit from a Russian manufacturer, which fully complies with GOST and is of good quality. Also, the DayLight+ controller has built-in stabilization, which will significantly increase the life of navigation lights.

Choosing a stabilizer

In this form, the first and second methods will be combined. Even if your daytime running lights do not have a stabilizer, I recommend purchasing one or making it yourself.

You can buy Chinese modules at a price of 50 to 120 rubles, so as not to order on Aliexpress, look at Avito, there are very reasonable prices. The most common modules are pulse LM2596 and linear LM317. Of course, they are outdated, but the current will be pulled by 1 ampere, it will be a power of 12 watts.

Modern for 2016 are considered on XL6009, XL4015 microcircuits. They have higher efficiency and heat up much less. Withstand a current of 2 Amperes without a cooling system for the microcircuit, this is equivalent to a load of 24W.

Connection via relay

On forums and websites, you will find different ways to connect daytime running lights with your own hands, it will be different for each brand. Specialized relays are also sold, for example, Forget-Me-Not, designed for any car.

The principle of operation is simple. Power for the daytime running lights is supplied from the ignition switch wire. The positive wire from the far and near breaks the circuit when voltage appears on it. For this, 5 contact relays are sufficient. First, look at the solution on forums that specialize only in the brand of your car. Perhaps you will find a simpler solution.

For example, in the Duster, you can connect the DRL to the cigarette lighter, it is energized only when the ignition is on. It's better than looking for an ignition wire in the wiring. In any case, I recommend putting a fuse in case of a short circuit.

In many circuits, a gauge wire is used to disable the DRL. This is wrong DRL should not go out when the dimensions are turned on, only with low beam.

Another type of daytime running lights connection scheme is the installation of a relay in a standard car relay unit without any upgrades. It includes a distant 30% or 50%, which will be enough to indicate the transport on the road. If the far one consumes 120W, then 30% is equal to approximately 36W, 50% is equal to 60W.

Other less popular methods

Many people are interested in how to connect DRL without a relay on their own, but it depends on the electrics of your car, look for a solution in online clubs dedicated to your car. The most important thing is that power is supplied in this place after starting the engine.

The main DRL connection diagram, through a 4 or 5 contact relay, which turns off when the dipped one is turned on. Whoever is not too lazy to rummage through the wiring of a car is connected from an oil pressure sensor or a generator. On any vehicle, when the engine is started, the oil pressure light on the dashboard lights up, the signal from this wire is used to supply power. The second way, how to connect running lights yourself, is to connect to a generator. They will turn on automatically when the voltage appears on the generator.

Checking the installation

Most car owners, after connecting the running lights with their own hands, like to take a photo of their junk. To make it not so dim, do it at night at close range. Due to their illiteracy, they do not know what to check in sunny weather from a distance of 100 meters. Therefore, they are called daytime, not nighttime.

Benefit example

When traveling in winter for short distances, especially in severe frost, a large amount of battery energy is spent on starting the engine. Over time, the battery loses its capacity and holds a charge worse. Using DRLs instead of low beams will allow you to charge your battery faster while driving.

Let's calculate:

1. dipped beam consumes about 100W, 2 lamps of about 50W each;
2. decent DRL up to 15W;
3. 100W - 15W = 85W of energy will be consumed less.

For example, in my Duster there is a regular heating element that heats the interior until the engine warms up. Accordingly, the car will warm up faster.