A wooden floor can be made on any kind of floors, but it is always arranged along logs, since it is required to observe natural air circulation. For wood, concrete, earthen base, the laying principle is the same, only the surface preparation technology differs, namely, the basis for the screed. One person can make a wooden floor on his own; for this, a lot of wood materials are used: solid wood boards, parquet boards, parquet, cork, fiberboard, chipboard.

The article discusses laying the floor on a screed with an array of boards; for other materials, the base is prepared in the same way. Such a device of wooden floors is the correct technology for preparing the base and laying the coating. It is the board that is distinguished by good workmanship, long service life, aesthetic beauty, environmental friendliness and easy installation.

Where to start with the flooring?

A high-quality floor is a perfectly flat surface, which is prepared at the first stage of work and is performed only once. Then you can change the types of coverage, if this is required by a new renovation and a change in the style of the interior. First of all, the evenness of the floor is determined. For this, a building level is used: laser or bubble. When the concrete surface drops up to 2 cm, a self-leveling mixture is used. In case of errors of greater magnitude, a concrete screed is made. If the repair is carried out in a private house with the dismantling of the old subfloor, leaving only the earthen surface, a screed device is also necessary.

Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand and modifiers that it is desirable to add, but you can do without them. Modifiers increase the elasticity of the mortar and improve its technical properties, for example, reduce the rate of hydration and the first setting time. Reinforced concrete screed implies the presence of reinforcement, but in a living room it is enough to level the floor with only concrete. The mortar consists of 30% water, the consistency should be more liquid than for masonry walls.

A layer of sand is poured onto a prepared clean surface; for an earthen base, it is mixed with fine gravel. A solution is poured on top, after it dries, a waterproofing roll material is laid. The technology requires that the entire amount of the solution be mixed at once. The mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled. The drying time, after which the screed can be subjected to stress, is about 7 days. The minimum thickness of the subfloor should be 3 cm.

Installation of lag

The logs can be placed on the ground cover without a concrete screed. To do this, install low posts made of bricks bonded with cement or concrete. It is enough if its height is 10 cm. On the concrete screed, the logs are installed on wooden bars, which are attached to the subfloor with self-tapping screws. The height of the blocks may vary if the floor is sloped and not leveled with a screed, but the standard is 50 mm.

Lags are wooden beams to which the floor material is attached. They are always mounted across the room, resting, in turn, on the bars. This is done in order to comply with the required gap, the presence of which requires laying a wooden floor for free air movement. The size of the beams depends on the distance between them: the larger it is, the larger the size of their section is chosen.

If there are no lags of the required section at hand, they can be sewn in pairs in accordance with the dimensions. Such beams stand on the edge.

The distance between the lags and the size of the section of the beam with a span of 4 m:

• 0.6 m - 16x12 cm
• 1 m - 20x12 cm.

If the beam for the log is short, it can be increased by removing half the thickness from 2 logs and connecting them. In this case, the easiest way is to dock the ends of the beams, observing their attachment to the bar.

After the end of the installation, the lag begins to install the front floor covering. It is better to pre-insulate it by laying mineral wool in the space between the beams. This type of insulation is optimal for floor insulation, as it provides good sound insulation and heat conservation. Same mineral wool maintains natural ventilation of the air, does not lead to the formation of excess moisture, mold, mildew.

Solid wood is the best material for flooring along logs. A grooved, parquet or planed board is made from it. Natural material provides useful microflora in the room, which has a beneficial effect on the internal microclimate, it is strong and durable.

For the manufacture of floorboards, the following types of trees are usually used: pine, fir, spruce, larch, cedar.

Before making a wooden floor, try on the location of the first and next boards, make the markings of the first row. The board is laid from the far corner of the room, for example, from the window. Docking seams are staggered, that is, each next row is shifted by half of the board. The elements are joined using tongue-and-groove piles, if they are provided for by the technology of manufacturing boards. The grooves are a longitudinal protrusion on one edge of the workpiece, while a similar groove is placed on the other edge.

If no engagement is provided, the boards are nailed to the floor or screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to ensure that their caps are buried in a wooden surface. The first plank is nailed at an angle of 90º, each next - at an angle of 45º. A technological gap is observed between the outer boards and the wall, which ensures the free expansion of the wood in a warm environment. The gap width is 1-2 cm.

Docking of elements should be carried out only along the lags. Otherwise, the floor may bend, which is completely unacceptable and violates the technology of its installation. Due to the fact that the work is performed with a hammer, the surface should be protected from damage. To do this, use a special wooden gasket, apply it to the nail and hit it with a hammer.

At the end of the work, the board must be sanded; for this, a scraper is used. You can also putty the cracks with putty on wood, it contains drying oil, which prevents it from cracking. The prepared surface of the new wooden floor is varnished or painted with oil paint. The toning technology allows you to imitate expensive tree species. You can also give the surface a pleasant matte sheen with a special oil or wax.

The foundation was poured, the walls were raised, the roof was mounted and windows with doors were installed. You can also start laying floors in wooden house do it yourself. The stage of work is not difficult, but it requires an attentive approach to details.

The correct laying of the floor cake is a guarantee of its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and the entire coating will have to be re-finished in a few years. Lack of ventilation in the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Sub-floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - decay makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut the logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix it after raising the walls.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing sufficient air vents in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfloor without forced ventilation, the area of ​​the air must correspond to 1: 400 of the area of ​​the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be impartial.

When the flooring is ready, you can start insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is worth solving the issue of its protection from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet vapors. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films - on the inside. With the walls, everything is clear. But how and what to put on the floor?

It is better to lay any vapor-tight films under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, you can even simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from vapors rising directly from the damp earth. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside are not useful here - all the vapors still rise up. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a "breathing" material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. For this, a special ventilation gap is left (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, along them, on top of the membrane, a counter-rail is nailed, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Floor insulation - why is it needed?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, the heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it down, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

• perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogs of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;





• Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so it does not need waterproofing, lightweight and inexpensive, but creates a "greenhouse effect" in the house and is not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a thin subfloor, as long as the waterproofing is properly installed and the insulation is protected from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put in good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to put the tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the device of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games outside. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but it is quite possible:

1. The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finished floor, will be about 150 kg / m2, and this is without taking into account the furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).



2. A great way to reduce slab weight is to avoid subflooring. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film with slats along the bottom so that the insulation plates do not sag.



3. Dense waterproofing is laid on top of the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.



4. Slate or cement-bonded particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. On top of the level, formwork is installed with the same height as the future screed. Reinforcement mesh is laid on substrates made of the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
5. The "snail" of floor heating pipes is laid out. It can be fastened to the mesh with standard cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and the reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.



6. To protect themselves, a test run of underfloor heating systems with increased pressure is performed. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.



7. After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't be upset! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video:

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors, requirements for the structure and its functionality, preparatory work and laying of floors, additional insulation.

The content of the article:

Installation of a wooden floor is a technologically complex process, which, nevertheless, can be performed independently if you stock up on theoretical knowledge and the necessary tools. Such coatings are distinguished by their perfection and aesthetics. They will look great not only in private cottages, but also in a traditional city apartment. Most importantly, wood flooring creates an amazing microclimate due to its natural qualities.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden floors

There are plenty of advantages of wood flooring, and thanks to them, such floors do not lose their relevance to this day:

• Naturalness... Wood is considered a "breathable" material, and any natural constituent is natural in origin, unlike many popular synthetic materials.
• Favorable indoor climate... The wood has an incomparable scent that recalls the long-forgotten traditions of our ancestors. Both children and adults feel better in rooms with wood trim.
• Safety for residents... It goes without saying that wood does not emit any impurities harmful to human health. On the contrary, it has a relaxing and relaxing effect.
• Ease of care... To maintain wooden floors, dry and damp cleaning is sufficient without the addition of harsh chemicals.
• Excellent aesthetic appearance... Wood is such a popular material that even unnatural materials tend to be made "wood-like".
• Good thermal insulation... Wood has long been famous for its ability to retain heat indoors and therefore used to create structures.

The disadvantages of wooden floors are much less, but the main one is the relatively high cost in relation to many popular synthetic materials. Of course, in terms of labor costs, such floors are much higher than laying linoleum or carpet indoors.

Over time, such a floor can creak and form cracks in the floorboards due to drying out. Wood floors will require periodic renewal, the frequency of which depends on the conditions in which it is used.

Wood floor requirements

The process of laying such a coating requires certain knowledge and skills. From a technical point of view, the floor must have maximum rigidity and minimum deflection properties in order to ensure comfortable operation. On the other hand, the construction and arrangement of a wooden floor must be technologically simple.

In terms of its functionality, such a coating must meet the following requirements:

1. Abrasion resistance... Wood refers to materials with an average resistance to deformation and physical activity... This results in the durability and reliability of most types of wood.
2. Thermal and sound insulation... Wood perfectly retains heat and does not allow the propagation of noise and sounds, unlike plywood and chipboard.
3. Water resistance... It is a water-repellent material, but under constant contact with water is subject to destruction.
4. Compliance with fire safety regulations... The wood used in construction and decoration is treated with special solutions that provide protection against insects and rapid fire.
5. Good bearing capacity... Hardwoods successfully play the role of beams, columns, which is evidenced by the use of wooden logs and other supporting structures during construction.

Wood floor installation technology

Installing a wooden floor requires careful selection of tools and wood. Consists of several main stages, from preparation to finishing.

Tools and materials for the installation of a wooden floor

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to provide a supply of tools that will be needed to perform the work: a hammer, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a nail puller, a hacksaw, an ax, a level, gloves, nails, screws, screws. In addition to the stock of boards and logs, which depend on the area of ​​the room, you need to prepare insulation and waterproofing.

All wood that will be used for laying a wooden floor must be treated with special preparations that prevent the appearance of insects.

Works can be carried out with various types of wood, such as folded board, unedged board, chipboard and plywood, glued beams and others.

Beams, like seam boards, are best suited for creating a finishing look. This layer can subsequently be painted or varnished, and in such a finished form will form the basis of future floors in the room.

As for the board itself, it is advisable to buy a solid board across the entire width of the room. Of the species, larch, beech, pine, oak and other types of wood are used most often.

Preparatory work before installing a wooden floor

It is necessary to start work after the completion of the stage of preparation of the premises. By this time, all other types of work should be completed: door frames with doors are installed, a ceiling with screeds is mounted, tiles or ceramic tiles are laid, plastered surfaces are dried.

Any moisture can have a detrimental effect on the quality of future wood floors. When laying the board, it is necessary that the air humidity in the room be in the range of 40-60%.

As for the installation method, the wooden board can be laid either on logs or in a parquet way. With the so-called parquet technology, the boards are fixed on a flat and prepared base - it can be a waterproof plywood sheet or, for example, chipboard. In this case, the total thickness of the finished floor assembly will be equal to 3-4 cm, including plywood, board and waterproofing.

In the case of laying on logs, there are some peculiarities. The very thickness of the board in this case should be about 40 millimeters, because it will have to withstand significant loads, avoiding noticeable deflections. But taking into account the thickness of the wooden logs, the ceiling height in the room will noticeably decrease (by 70-90 mm). Therefore, a wooden floor on logs will be especially appropriate in rooms with high ceilings.

In this case, such a feature of the coating is not considered a disadvantage. But the key advantage this method consists in the ability to hide any level differences from prying eyes. There is no need to make additional concrete screeds or weight the structure with heavy elements. Any wiring (telephone, electrical and even communications) is successfully laid under the floor.

Before starting the installation of wooden floors, the quality of the base base is determined. This can be done by tapping and visual inspection. There should be no cracks in a solid screed. If any areas are detached, they must be replaced with new ones. But when the screed changes, you will need to withstand another month of pause - during this period it will be able to dry completely, and the humidity in the room will acquire normal values.

Waterproofing wood flooring

This term is understood as a set of works, the main task of which is to ensure protection of wood floors and other elements of the building from the harmful effects of moisture.

It is especially important to make waterproofing in houses and cottages of individual buildings, since they are more likely to be flooded and border on basements. Any wood quickly begins to absorb water and deteriorates over time.

The most reliable and effective way of waterproofing when installing a wooden floor is to cover the floor with sheet or roll polymer material.

Before starting work, all wooden surfaces must be thoroughly dried. The screed is covered with strips of polyethylene, which is sold in rolls. An overlap is made between the stripes, equal to 20 cm.

A layer of rubber or pressed cork can be used as sound insulation. From above, the material is covered with a waterproofing film, and the joints are carefully fixed.

A layer of mastic of about 1.5-2 mm is applied to the wood. It is necessary for a better connection between wood and polymer. Strips of waterproofing material are laid on top, and the joints must be glued.

Laying logs for wooden floors

After waterproofing, you can proceed to the installation of the lags themselves. The durability and operational strength of the entire structure will directly depend on the quality of this stage. For the lag, a 50 x 100 mm bar is suitable, which is pre-soaked with an antiseptic solution and thoroughly dried. The moisture content of the wood should not exceed 15%.

How to lay the timber correctly, we will consider further. The direction is more connected with the design ideas of the customer, that is, it can be different. But an obligatory rule: the location of the lags in relation to the boards should always be strictly perpendicular. Often, experts recommend laying the boards along the direction of the light.

The width of the step between the lags will be from 50 to 55 cm. Its length will depend on the natural characteristics of the material. The thicker and stronger the board is, the wider the distance between the timber can be, which can withstand such a load. The logs are fastened to the base with dowels every half a meter and trimmed with wooden wedges.

The modern building materials market offers specially prepared joists that are adjustable with spacer screws. Thus, the installation process can become much easier, but the height of the ceilings in the room will also decrease.

It so happens that while walking on wooden floors, there are booming sounds associated with the voids inside. To avoid this, the space is filled with fibreboard in 2 or even 3 layers.

How to make a rough wood flooring

In the composition of the wooden covering, a rough and final flooring is distinguished. To prepare the base base, bars are taken, across which an unedged board is stuffed. In terms of their thickness, lumber can be from 15 to 45 mm.

Experts advise to use low-grade wood if it is necessary to save on costs for a wooden floor. It is pretreated with an antiseptic solution. More often for this purpose, coniferous boards are purchased.

Each board under the rough draft should fit snugly together. After that, an insulating material is placed - for example, a layer of clay and sawdust with a height of 3-5 mm. Expanded clay can also act as a heater, which is covered with a layer of 5-10 centimeters.

After the heat insulator is installed, the subfloor is covered with a tongue-and-groove board. The gap from the heat insulator to the finishing coat should be in the range of 10-15 mm. Nails are used to attach the grooved board to the timber.

To provide ventilation, small slots (holes) can be made, which will be 5-6 cm in diameter. For additional air circulation, they resort to ventilation holes in the basement of the structure.

Another issue that needs to be addressed during installation is the organization of additional air ventilation in the floor. For this, several holes can be drilled, which are covered with a grid. Grooves are made along the tops of the beams, which will give an additional flow of air.

Wood floors can be electrically heated if precautions are taken.

Finishing floor device

For clean floors, get a well-dried and milled board. It has a special tongue / groove edge and a longitudinal ventilation slot. Such material is always treated with protective compounds.

They start lining the floorboard after laying the logs and filling the voids. During installation, make sure that the tree rings on adjacent boards are facing in different directions. They begin to lay them at a distance of 1-2 cm from the wall, and the first row is aligned along the stretched twine. They are attached to each installed lag.

Subsequent boards are threaded into the grooves, knocked out with a wooden hammer and finally fastened with nails. The size of the boards is set in such a way that the joint passes in the middle of each log. The nails are hammered in such a way that the cap goes 2-3 mm deep. Do not be afraid of the appearance of holes: they are subsequently treated with putty and additionally painted.

You can use long screws for installation - they are considered more reliable, but their installation is technologically more difficult. First, you need to drill holes for the screw, and then screw the screw into each one in turn.

Now let's talk about how to make a wooden floor that will not be stained, but only covered with colorless varnish. For such situations, you will need to stock up on open and hidden mounts. Open fasteners are special nails that are equipped with decorative elements. Therefore, they are hammered at the same distance from each other, within the same direction along the line.

Hidden fasteners are heads of nails or self-tapping screws, which are hidden in special recesses. Later, they are closed with corks, which are selected in size.

When laying a finishing coating based on planed boards, it is not enough to press them tightly together. To ensure better mating, stops, wedges and tightening devices are used.

Features of wood flooring

To hide the gap between the wall and the wooden floor, a wooden plinth is stuffed along the bottom. It is a curly rail under which you can run a telephone or Internet cable. Fix the plinth with small nails, screws or screws.

The best way to sand wood flooring is to use a sander. Sanding belts of various degrees of abrasiveness are produced for it. The larger one is used for hard wood, and the middle one is used for softer ones. Fine sandpaper is used in the final sanding process. The corners of the walls are more difficult to achieve with sanding, so a special angle machine is needed here.

The plank floor is sanded in several stages with a gradual decrease in the grain size of the nozzles. In the process, the flaws in the wood and the cracks found are closed.

After that, the painting procedure begins. First, you need to walk with a vacuum cleaner all over the floor to collect dust, small shavings and wood debris. Without this, high-quality painting cannot be achieved.

For the final finishing, a special polyurethane-based varnish is used, which is also applied in several layers. Additionally, a tinting composition can be applied under the varnish to change the color of the future coating.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor with a warm underground

In cases where the groundwater runs low enough, it is possible to install floors with an additional underground, which will act as a heater. For this, the following works are performed:

• A layer of soil is removed, on which a concrete base is laid with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm.
• Brick posts with a height of 15 cm are placed on this surface. Each post contains 4 bricks.
• In order to prevent the accumulation of dampness and decay of wood, roll waterproofing (roofing paper) is laid. Wooden gaskets can be placed on the waterproofing layer. Lags will subsequently lie on them. Finishing floorboards will be attached on top of the logs.
• As a waterproofing material, you can use hydroglass. It ensures proper drying of the cement screed, due to the fact that the moisture evaporates upwards and the base of the walls remains dry.
• Lags in this case are placed at a distance of 40-50 centimeters and they are placed not on the ceiling, but on an antiseptic slab.
• When organizing a warm underfloor, ventilation is important. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate, which will significantly shorten the life of wooden floors.
• You can ventilate the subfloor of such a coating with the help of special slots in the baseboard, the role of which is played by the windows cut out in them. From above, they are covered with nets or ventilation grilles.
• The subfloor itself can be filled with slag: this will provide additional insulation, but it is necessary to take care of a 5 cm layer, which will ensure air circulation in the underground.

Particular attention should be paid to the use of hydroglass insulation for owners of one-story houses, because it extends the operational period of wooden parts.

How to make a wooden floor - watch the video:

Thus, despite the large assortment of building materials on the modern market, the wooden floor with your own hands has not lost its relevance at all. It is durable, has a special decorative effect and is able to give an unsurpassed feeling of home warmth and comfort. At the same time, people are constantly improving existing technologies and striving to make installation even simpler and more affordable.

The tree remains one of the most demanded today. building materials for arranging flooring.

Wood is an excellent material for flooring. It is environmentally friendly, durable and beautiful.

This is due to environmental friendliness, functionality, aesthetics of the material and ease of installation. Detailed instructions will tell you how to properly make a wooden floor yourself.

Preparatory work for laying a wooden floor

Floor boards should preferably be of softwood, even, smooth and free from defects.

Before proceeding with the main work on laying wooden floors, it is necessary to carry out thorough preparation, which includes:

1. The right choice of floorboards.
2. Selection of tools and other materials necessary for work.
3. Arrangement of the sub-floor.

Its strength, wear resistance, durability will depend on the correct choice of floorboards. Most often, coniferous wood boards are used for these purposes. When buying a material, you need to make sure that it does not come across various defects, which include: curvature of wood, delamination, traces of turning by insects, holes from knots, etc. You should buy wood from one batch, with a small margin. An edged or tongue-and-groove board, which does not need additional processing, is best suited. It is important that the floorboards are dry, otherwise they may deform later.

Before work, all purchased wooden material must be treated with a special fire retardant - fire retardant and biopregnant from fungus and putrefactive bacteria.

Having prepared the basic material, you should think about preparing the necessary tools and additional material... You will definitely need:

To install a wooden floor, you will need a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a level, a hammer, nails, etc.

1. Screwdriver.
2. Self-tapping screws for wood.
3. A hammer.
4. Nails.
5. Metal staples.
6. Miter saw.
7. Nylon thread.
8. Building level.
9. Waterproofing.
10. Thermal insulation.

Wooden floors can be fitted on various types of substrates, the most common of which are:

1. Lags.
2. Concrete.
3. Plywood.

When preparing various bases for the floor, there are features that should be discussed in more detail.

If wooden floors are made on logs, then additional tools and materials will be required:

If the floor is on logs, then wooden beams and wedges will be required.

1. Wooden beams (5x10 cm).
2. Wedges made of wood.

To install wooden floors on a plywood base, you will need:

1. Plywood sheets.
2. Bars for lags.
3. Glassine.

When arranging wooden floors on a concrete base, additional polyethylene foam should be prepared.

Arrangement of a log under the base of a wooden floor

The method of laying floors on logs is considered the most famous and is suitable in almost all cases. A significant advantage of this method is the ability to carry out all the necessary communications under the logs, smooth out all the irregularities and differences in the floor level. The only thing is that the method is not suitable for low rooms, because will reduce the height by another 10 cm.

Logs are wooden beams with a height of 2 times the width, they are installed before laying wooden floors. The size of the lag is usually selected individually in each case and depends on the thickness of the insulation, the distance between the beams, the thickness of the flooring. If we count wooden floors with a thickness of 4 cm, then the distance between the logs should be no more than 80 cm.

Lags can be attached to the foundation of the house, and to the walls of the log house, in the apartment - on a concrete base. It is most correct to place the logs across the direction of the light. Before laying the logs, a waterproofing layer is installed on the base.

The lag installation technology is simple and should not cause any difficulties. At one level, along the opposite walls of the room, two lags are securely attached. Between them, using a nylon thread as a guide, intermediate lags are installed through the calculated distance, for example, after 80 cm. They are aligned according to the building level and with the help of an underlay element. The lags are fastened with self-tapping screws, nails, and dowels to the concrete base.

The entire space between them should be filled with a heat insulator chosen at your discretion, on top of which the waterproofing layer is again laid. On finished and fixed joists, it is already possible to produce transverse wooden flooring.

Other types of substrate preparation for wooden floors

Other types of subfloor preparation for wood floors include plywood and concrete subfloors. Plywood, being a reliable and durable material, has proven itself very well during long-term use. The installation of plywood is carried out as follows: sheets of plywood are laid out on the base of the floor and the places for installing the lags are marked with chalk. The logs must be laid exactly, which is checked by the building level. The distance between the lags should not exceed 40 cm. Their fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or long nails. On the logs, as protection against condensation, a layer of glassine is laid, on which plywood sheets are installed and fixed with self-tapping screws. There should be a gap of about 2 mm between the plywood sheets lying on the joists. The joints must be well sanded. It should be noted that waterproofing and thermal insulation should be laid under the plywood.

Sometimes wooden floors are laid on a flat concrete base. In this case, direct contact between concrete and wood should be avoided by using overlapped polyethylene foam.

It will not be difficult to make a wooden floor correctly if its base is reliably prepared.

Wood flooring

To avoid mistakes and make a wooden floor according to all the rules, it is necessary to follow the technology of its installation.

Wooden floors are laid perpendicular to the installed joists. The prepared boards are cut with a miter saw to the required dimensions. The first board is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the wall. This is to prevent the wood from swelling. It is fastened with self-tapping screws with a screwdriver - along the edges and into each log. Fasteners can also be carried out with a hammer and long nails. Next to the first board, three more should be laid, not fixing yet. After that, metal brackets are installed in the log and wedges made of wood are hammered between them and the boards with a hammer. This is done so that the boards are tightly pressed against each other, and subsequently no gaps appear between them. Now the boards are fastened to the base with screws or nails. The heads of nails or screws are sunk into the wood. The wedges and staples are then removed and used for the following boards.

The rest of the floorboards are laid in the same way. The last board, if it does not fit entirely, is sawn lengthwise, according to the required size. Wedges are driven between it and the wall using the same technology. After that, you need to fasten the last board. Remember to leave a 10 mm gap between the new floor and the second wall. The gap between the floor and the walls must be covered with skirting boards with strips that provide free air ventilation.

After laying wooden planks, it is necessary to make the resulting floor surface even and smooth. For this, work is carried out such as scraping, putty and floor polishing. Finally, the new floor is covered in several layers with transparent varnish or wood paint and dried.

Thus, following the detailed instructions and preparing all the tools and materials necessary for work, you can independently, without the involvement of specialists, equip wooden floors at home.

A wooden floor is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace the warmth and environmental friendliness of wood at home. Despite the fact that wood is inferior to concrete or composites in strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. The device of the floor in a wooden house has been worked out by many generations, so it should not cause any special problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

It is possible to arrange a floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the order of work, materials, tools and equipment used in this case.

Floor scheme in a house made of wood on pillars

The construction of a floor of such a structure is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams into the walls of your house for building the floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, such a floor structure is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

The flooring in a house made of wood of this design can be divided into two types.

• Single wooden plank flooring... This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this structure in small houses in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
• Double floor... This type of floor is built in buildings intended for year-round use. When using this technology, two decks are built: black and fine, in the gap between them is insulation against heat loss and moisture penetration.

The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Dig in your subfloor area. The pit should be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. Place a cushion of rubble, gravel or river sand cleaned from organic matter in the excavated pit. It is recommended that the top edge of the pillow rises above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2. Floor pillars can be formed from red fired bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the post is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars in the underground. In this case, the concrete solution is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame made of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened into the gravel bed sections of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which a frame made of reinforcement is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the support posts horizontally and vertically is about one meter.

Step 3. A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, for example roofing material.

Step 4.On the waterproofing layer is a wooden plate 30 mm thick.

Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support posts. Usually they are built from a thick wooden bar, cut from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The joints of the lags should fall on the pillars. When building, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the lag position using counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent joists can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.On the laid logs, a plank flooring is laid. To create an aesthetic appearance, it is better to lay wooden boards parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap from the wall up to 15 mm. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underfloor space.

Step 7.Boards made of solid wood are fastened to the logs with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. Nails are hammered at a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the interface plane of the board and the support log. The optimum tilt angle is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. The heads of nails are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the process of filling and painting, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle

Step 8. On top of the boards along the perimeter of the walls, a plinth strip is nailed. A temporary plinth is mounted near two opposite walls of the room, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent skirting board.

Please note that in the event that a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars will not be heated in winter time, the supports can "lead" and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be disturbed. Additional thermal insulation to the underground space can be provided by a slag layer, but in the gap between its upper edge and the wooden floor there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters to ensure ventilation.

How to build a single plank floor in a wooden house

If, when building walls in a house made of wood, you provided for the laying of support-beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least one meter.

1. Logs are mounted on top of the support bars for laying the floor. For their construction, wooden beams with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for flooring:
   - if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the logs should be no more than half a meter;
   - if you use a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then the optimal distance between the logs will be 50-60 centimeters.
2. When laying the lathing from the lag, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the beams. It is advisable to use a laser or ordinary building level for this, adjusting the height of the log location with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
3. The logs are fixed to the load-bearing beams by means of long nails or carpentry brackets.

1. The single-structure plank floor is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finished floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that goes into the body of the board at a slight slope. The nail head is recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.

1. A fine tongue-and-groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, for example, linoleum, is laid on the subfloor layer.

This is a very fast and affordable way to build a floor in a wooden structure. However, the thermal insulation of such a structure leaves much to be desired, and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and roughing.

Step 1

Lags are mounted on the supporting bearing beams, to which additional cranial bars are nailed.

Step 2

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged coniferous boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying, the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that there are minimal gaps.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes are overlapped.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the rough floor. Their height is chosen depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

An insulating layer is located between the lags. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:

• rolled out roll of mineral wool;
• foamed polymer boards (for example, expanded polystyrene);
• a layer of backfill material, for example expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
• system of pipelines for a warm water floor.

Step 7

On top of the insulating layer, another layer of waterproofing is laid. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden floor, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When building a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

On top of this whole "sandwich" tongue and groove boards are laid. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

In the corners of the room, during installation, ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters are left, which are closed with decorative grilles. The surface of the grates rises a couple of centimeters above the floor. This elevation protects the grill from moisture ingress.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the walls of the basement. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are closed.

Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings

When installing the floor on the lower first or basement floor of a wooden house above unheated basements, there are certain features.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built in the presence of dry soil under the house and with a high location of the overlap of the first floor of the building. The underground floor of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

• tamped sand cushion;
• dry, clean, calcined sand;
• log (beams of coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in the poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
• single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underfloor space

The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

1. Placing in the underground a pillow made of compacted sand, free of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
2. Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install the supports would be to pour concrete into sections of upright pipes with a metal frame inside.
3. Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
4. Placement of wooden dies 30 mm thick.
5. Laying of load-bearing beams-lag.
6. In order to insulate the floor when using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross-section) are nailed to the side ends of the lag, on which the rough floor layer from cut unedged boards is laid.
7. A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are laid on the rough flooring layer (the flooring level is just below the finished floor). A plank floor or wood-based panel covering is laid on top of the beams.

Cold floor with heated underground space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with a low level of soil water. The technology of its installation is the same as the previous one, before the stage of installation of the subfloor. After mounting the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating an insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.

Video - Floor arrangement in a wooden house