The comfort of living in any house or apartment is directly related to both a properly planned, efficiently operating heating system, and the degree of insulation of the building structures. It is completely pointless to spend a lot of money on energy resources if insufficient or poor-quality thermal insulation does not minimize heat losses, and heating devices spend a significant part of their power on unnecessary "street heating".

One of the “main routes” of heat leakage from residential premises is external walls that do not have sufficient thermal insulation. It is good for the owners of private houses - they still have the opportunity to mount external insulation. But not everyone is free with such an optimal choice, and one has to look for other approaches. It would seem that there is nothing particularly complicated - you can organize the insulation of the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall, the layer of which will become the basis for. This method of thermal insulation, as they say, "has a right to exist", however, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance.

Insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool is a rather controversial event, thawing a lot "Pitfalls"... And it should only be resorted to in extreme circumstances, when there is absolutely no way to perform thermal insulation from the outside. Let's try to figure out what the disadvantages of this approach are, and how you can minimize them.

A few words about insulation - mineral wool

First of all, we will consider the property of the insulation material, which is included in the title of the article.

Mineral wool as an insulating material in industrial construction has been used for a long time. With the advent of new technologies for the production of mineral wool, which led to an increase in product quality, a decrease in the degree of harm to humans and the environment, the scope of application has expanded significantly, and her are actively used for thermal insulation work in residential buildings.

It should be well understood that under the concept of mineral wool there are several types of it, which have significant differences, and not all varieties are applicable in a residential building. The main parameters are summarized in a table, but a few words about each of the varieties still need to be said.

Parameter name	Stone wool	Slag	Glass wool
Miniature
Average fiber diameter, μm	from 4 to 12	from 4 to 12	from 5 to 15
Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more)%	0,95	1.9	1.7
Taunt	No	Yes	Yes
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m-K)	0,035-0,042	0,46-0,48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 0.95	from 0.75 to 0.82	0.8 to 0.92
The presence of a binder,%	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Sintering temperature, ° С	600	250-300	450-500
Limiting application temperature, ° С	up to 1000	up to 250-300	from -60 to +450
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Release of harmful substances during combustion	insignificantly	Yes	insignificantly
Heat capacity, J / kg * K	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	moderate	weak	weak

There are three main types of mineral wool.

• Glass wool known to all - it is obtained by melting quartz sand or glass broken. From the melted mass, fibers with a thickness of about 5-15 microns and a length of 15 to 50 mm are drawn, which are then pressed into light and elastic mats using a binder component. Usually glass wool is easy to distinguish from other types by color - it is characterized by yellow shades.

The material is chemically inert, not subject to decay, will not become a breeding ground for any forms of biological life. Disadvantage - glass wool fibers are very fragile, prickly, and can cause serious skin irritation when laying the material. The same quality also predetermines the undesirability of using glass wool in residential premises - microparticles of fibers can be carried with dust, get into the respiratory system, cause allergic reactions or asthmatic attacks in people suffering from chronic diseases.

Thus, it is still not worth using glass wool to insulate the inner surface of walls in residential premises.

• Shlakovata is the second representative of this class of heaters. We will not talk a lot about it - it is not suitable for thermal insulation of living quarters. There are many reasons for this. In addition to the disadvantages inherent in glass wool - brittleness, brittleness, dust formation, slag is the most hygroscopic, gives the greatest shrinkage with a loss of insulating qualities. In addition, there are many questions to her from the point of view of environmental friendliness. The raw materials for its manufacture are blast-furnace slags, sometimes they have a very ambiguous composition and even a radiation background, and the increased acidity, coupled with moisture absorption, creates a very aggressive environment, especially destructively affecting metal parts.
• If we already take mineral wool for internal insulation, then exclusively basalt (stone). Compared to others, it is the most durable, elastic, its fibers are not so fragile, do not cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes. At the same time - this is all absolutely without loss of insulating qualities - the thermal conductivity coefficient is no worse than that of glass wool.

Stone wool is also capable of absorbing moisture, but its hygroscopicity index is the lowest. The binder in the process of making such mineral wool completely polymerizes, and cannot pose a significant danger to the human body (of course, if it comes about quality, certified products from well-known manufacturers).

Basalt wool is extremely convenient in laying - mats or slabs made of it hold their shape well, are easy to cut, some of them can, if necessary, be fixed on the walls with construction glue (this is very important for high-quality thermal insulation).

What is extremely important for residential premises - basalt wool belongs to the group of non-combustible and non-combustible materials, and its heat resistance is the highest among all heaters produced in the form of panels, slabs or mats.

In a word, basalt stone wool, despite its certain drawbacks, is becoming the only right choice.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Let's turn to the theory - "underwater rocks" wall insulation from the inside

So, subject to certain technological rules, basalt mineral wool can be used for insulation work both outside and inside premises. Why, then, are there so many opponents of thermal insulation from the inside?

Probably, many have made "bright spots" on the facade walls of high-rise buildings. Apartment owners, dissatisfied with the degree thermal insulation of walls, go at considerable costs in order to use exactly external insulation.

It is almost impossible to carry out such insulation on your own. We have to resort to the services of companies that have specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering on their staff. Agree that such work at a height, which includes preparing the wall for thermal insulation, and installing insulation, and high-quality finishing, cannot be cheap in any way. Nevertheless, many go for it.

By the way, in order to perform such an external insulation of the walls of an apartment, one will also have to face problems of an administrative nature. - it is necessary to obtain the appropriate permission for it. And there is no guarantee that the "good" will be received. Thus, the refusal may be motivated by a violation of the appearance of the building or the style of street decoration, especially if the house is classified as an architectural monument or is part of a single urban ensemble. Permission will not be obtained if the apartment is adjacent to the technological expansion joints of the building, to the elevator shafts, and other elements of the building structure. In short, many difficulties are foreseen in this matter, even with the required material resources.

So why not carry out internal insulation, because there is a lot advantages?

• The performance of work is not tied to the season or weather conditions - carry it out whenever you want.
• At first glance, work on internal insulation requires much lower costs - both in terms of purchasing materials and in terms of the possibility of carrying them out on our own, without the involvement of specialists.
• In addition to insulation, the walls also receive effective sound insulation.
• Work can be carried out in stages, from one room to another, as far as possible and necessity.

However, this whole "rainbow picture" is seriously deteriorating disadvantages a similar method of insulation:

• Carrying out work temporarily paralyzes life in a particular room and disrupts the convenience of living in others - you have to move furniture, construction waste inevitably spreads around the apartment.
• The total cost of insulating external walls may not be so insignificant - this entails, in addition to thermal insulation measures, also large-scale work to restore or even completely renew the interior decoration of the room.
• Internal insulation will oblige the owners to radically revise the system of high-quality
• Insulation of walls from the inside is always a loss in the usable area of ​​rooms.
• And most importantly - by carrying out such insulation, the owners, winning in one, get a "time bomb" - a high probability of the appearance and spread of dampness, mold, fungus on closed walls, which not only leads to unpleasant odors, but also poses a certain danger to the health of residents ...

In addition, in damp walls, processes of decomposition, erosion, and corrosion of building materials from which they are built arise and develop much faster.

Let's consider the main disadvantages in more detail.

Is it so significant to reduce the area of ​​the room?

It would seem - how much area can "steal"? But this seems insignificant only at first glance.

Take, for example, a room measuring 5 x 3.5 meters. Its useful area is 17.5 m².

Let's say there are two external walls in the room (pos. 1) that require insulation. A layer of mineral wool (pos. 2) with a thickness of 50 mm was used as thermal insulation. From above, it is closed with plasterboard sheathing (pos. 3) in one layer - this, with installation and putty, will take another 15 mm. In total, the length of the two sides of the room decreases by an average of 65 mm (even if we do not take into account the possible curvature of the walls, in this case the difference will be even greater).

We calculate the area: 3.435 × 4.935 = 16.95 m². In total, the total loss of usable space in the room, which is already small in size, was 0.55 m²! Moreover, as already mentioned, the theoretical straightness of the walls and the minimum thickness of the insulation - only 50 mm - were taken into account.

If we add to this the forced transfer of heating radiators, the expansion of window sills, then the losses look very significant. In a spacious room, you can somehow optimize the space, minimizing the consequences of such losses. But in a cramped kitchen, where every centimeter sometimes counts, it will be more difficult to get out of the situation.

But these, as they say, are everyday problems that can be dealt with with "little blood." The situation is much more serious with questions that lie in the plane of thermal physics.

Balance between quality insulation and condensation

It is here that the most vulnerable point of internal wall insulation lies. And the main "enemy" is water, which transforms its vapor into a liquid state (condensate) at a certain point of meeting of the internal heat of the premises and the cold from the street. A place condensation has its own name - "dew point".

The dew point changes non-linearly and depends on many factors - the level of humidity, temperatures outside from the inside, the structure of the wall and the materials used.

It should be clearly understood that the level of absolute humidity in residential premises is often higher than in the open air. This is explained simply - in addition to the general humidity background, which depends on the climatic conditions of a given area, season, set weather, etc., a considerable amount of air vapor is added to it, which are formed in the process of daily life of a person. These include exhaled vapors, cooking or boiling water, taking water procedures, wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, and in some cases, even special air humidifiers are used to increase the comfort of living.

Excess moisture always requires a certain yield to maintain the overall balance. Part of the problem is solved by ventilating the premises or by operating the ventilation system. Yet a very large amount of water vapor finds its way through the walls. Most building materials have good vapor permeability - they say that "the wall breathes". Under optimal conditions, vapors penetrate the barriers and escape freely into the atmosphere, unless, of course, they "bump" into the dew point.

One of the main tasks in thermal engineering calculations of enclosing structures is to bring the dew point as close as possible to the outer edge of the wall or even beyond it, into the layer of external insulation. Then, subject to certain conditions, the condensed moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere without causing any harm to the wall structure.

It is much worse if the dew point is on the inner surface of the wall. Moisture begins to accumulate, leading to negative consequences, which have already been described above. In addition, if the wall is closed from the inside with mineral wool insulation, then it begins to damp, losing its thermal insulation and noise-absorbing quality.

How to achieve such a state of affairs in order to "kill two birds with one stone" with internal insulation - to provide the necessary total resistance to heat transfer and to exclude the formation of condensation on the walls? Alas, under the stated conditions, in the complete absence of high-quality external thermal insulation, this task is impossible in principle. And, rather, we can talk about minimizing the negative consequences of such a method of insulation.

There are special calculation methods that allow you to determine the optimal design of the wall insulation system. Their main principle is based on the fact that in order to replenish the heat losses of the building, the total value of the thermal resistance of the wall structure must correspond to the tabular parameters calculated for the climatic conditions of the region. The table itself would take up a lot of space in the article, so it is better to give a schematic map of the Russian Federation, on which the required values ​​of thermal resistance for walls, floors and roofing are marked. In this case, we are interested in the first value, for the walls - it is shown with purple numbers.

Thermal resistance value R (m2 × ° WITH/ W) of a wall structure, having, say, n layers, is calculated by the formula:

R = R1 + R2 +… Rn

hn - thickness of a particular layer

λn is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, the layer is made of the finished one.

The value of the coefficient is a tabular value that is easy to find on the Internet.

Having calculated the resistance of each layer, you can also calculate the temperature difference on its outer and inner surfaces, and this will allow you to estimate the location of the dew point.

However, such exact calculations are usually carried out by specialists, the formulas are rather complicated and cumbersome, and not everyone will be able to do it. Such a task is not facing us now. But in order to argue the thesis about the undesirability of insulation from the inside, let's see, for example, how a brick wall of 1.5 bricks (380 mm thick) will "behave" with various variations in the location of thermal insulation.

All diagrams show two lines. Black is a graph of temperature changes in the thickness of the wall structure. Blue is the temperature graph of the dew currents. Accordingly, the point of their intersection or coincidence is the very place where condensation will form abundantly. All calculations are based on winter conditions - the temperature inside the apartment is + 20 ° WITH, outside - frost -20 ° С. For the assessment, we take the value R = 3.24 m2 × ° WITH/ W, which corresponds, for example, the region of the Middle Volga region, for which such temperatures are the average norm.

The calculations take into account that the air in the room has a certain thermal resistance (on average - 0.13 m2 × ° WITH/ W) and outside (0.04 m2 × ° WITH/ W).

A. "Naked" outside and inside brick wall

1 - brick wall, h = 0.38 m

The graphs do not overlap - condensation will not form. But the insulating qualities of such a wall do not meet the requirements in any way - heating devices will spend a lot of energy on heating the wall, in the end- the heat escapes outside. We look at the table:

Wall structure layer material	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² ° C / W]	T inside, [° C]	T outside, [° C]
Total	38	0.75
Indoors		0.13	20	13.03
Brickwork	38	0.58	13.03	-17.85
Street		0.04	-17.85	-20

The resulting total value R = 0.75 is not even close to the desired 3.24.

B. Externally plastered wall

Today, a method has been developed for obtaining a special type of insulation - stone wool made from basalt. Twenty years ago, such mineral wool was used exclusively for the needs of the defense industry, and today this insulation is widely used for thermal insulation of any buildings.

The composition of mineral wool does not contain such environmentally harmful components as acrylic and phenol-formaldehyde resins. It consists only of natural binders, therefore it is safe for humans. This heat-insulating material not only perfectly retains heat, but also allows you to create reliable sound insulation of premises. Basalt mineral wool is becoming more and more popular and has already been tested by time, but people still have a lot of questions about technological issues, which we will try to focus on in this article.

How to properly fix the mineral wool?

In this case, it all depends on the type of insulation and on the type of structure on which the insulation is mounted. Lightweight grades of mineral wool are installed in frame structures. Rigid mineral wool boards are fixed with special dowels or fixed using special adhesives.

When fastening the raspor, mineral wool is placed very tightly in a wooden frame pre-assembled from slats and bars. The thickness of the frame must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Between the slats, an interval less than the width of the mineral wool is maintained by 1.5-2 cm, which does not allow the material to slide during operation. The mats are mounted starting from the bottom of the structure, and the rolls from the top. In this case, the solid pieces are stacked first, and the free space, for example, near doors or windows, is filled later.

High density mineral wool is often installed without intermediate / support bars. It is completely wound up behind the frame and pressed against the supporting structure without a gap, after which, for safety reasons, it is fixed with dowels with a wide head, that is, the so-called "disc" dowels. In such a system, the frame elements are located on top of the insulating layer and press the cotton wool against the wall, in addition, the brackets that pass through the mats help keep the insulation in place.

When using the bonded thermal insulation method ( wet way) frames are not used at all, therefore, adhesives must be used as fastening. In this case, you will have to purchase a dry mixture, but always intended for gluing mineral wool insulation. IN recent times polyurethane glue in cylinders is becoming more and more popular, which allows you to mount dense mineral wool to any substrates, including wood, metal, polymer. This technology also involves the use of disc dowels. We considered in more detail the features of gluing insulation in articles on adhesives and wet insulation of the facade.

What is the best way to cut mineral wool?

It is recommended to cut heat-insulating materials from stone wool with a hacksaw for metal or with a specially designed sharp long knife, the blade of which is serrated. In any case, the equipment should be well sharpened so that as few fibers are pulled out as possible. Many companies that produce insulation also offer their customers cutting tools: knives about 300 mm long, as well as saws with teeth without divorce, about 60 cm long.For the lack of special devices for such purposes, kitchen bread knives with small teeth show themselves well and wavy edge. Thin soft slabs and mats (50 mm) can be cut with a regular cutting knife.

Mineral wool produced in rolls is best cut before unrolling. And the mineral wool slabs are taken out of the packs and cut one by one. It should be remembered that when installing thermal insulation, the insulation must fill the entire insulated space very tightly, therefore, before cutting, allowances should be left: for plates - 0.5 cm; and for mats - about 1-2 cm.

Is it true that mineral wool needs to be protected from moisture and wind?

During the operation of insulated buildings, their walls, roof and other structures should be protected from high atmospheric humidity and from being blown by strong winds. Therefore, after installation, the mineral wool insulation from the outside is covered with canvases made of a vapor-permeable moisture and windproof membrane. This allows you to prevent the penetration of cold wind and oblique rain drops into the thickness of the wall. At the same time, water vapor from the interior space, passing through the walls by diffusion, will be able to escape outside without obstacles.

The undoubted advantage of mineral wool is its vapor permeability, and this property should be used to the maximum. When installing mineral wool heat-insulating materials between the bearing wall and the insulation, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier, since such sealing will negatively affect the climate inside the building. The lack of artificial ventilation in this case will lead to an increase in humidity and the formation of condensation, which, in turn, will cause the formation of mold and mildew.

A vapor barrier film must be used when installing thermal insulation indoors - in this case, it is installed on the warm side of the mineral wool. This allows you to protect the insulation from water vapor from the premises. Reinforced polyethylene can be used as a vapor barrier, which is placed between the insulation and the cladding.

If the design allows, it is imperative to provide a ventilated air gap between the insulation and the external finish. This will help keep the rockwool dry without compromising the vapor permeability of the building.

What if you need to use cotton wool with a layer of 15 or 20 cm, and the insulation is supplied with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm?

There is nothing complicated here. You need to calculate the required thickness using the formulas or using an online calculator (we talked about this in the last article), and then you can easily type a insulation barrier from several layers. In addition, this method allows you to easily eliminate the problem of the formation of cold bridges and blowing out the joints. To do this, when installing the insulation, the sheets of the outer and inner layers should be shifted relative to each other by 20-30 mm in order to reliably cover the seams.

Do I have to use protective equipment? Which?

Mineral wool is considered a safe heat-insulating material, both during operation and during installation. However, with prolonged work with this insulation, it is better to protect yourself using personal protective equipment.

Stone wool, in comparison with glass wool, is much more convenient and safer to work with, but you should still be careful when installing it. It is best to work on cold days in an overalls made of dense fabric that covers the whole body from contact with mineral wool. It is not recommended to touch this material with bare hands, for their protection you can use “glazier's gloves” - fabric with rubber or silicone dusting in the palm area. It is also imperative to protect the eyes and scalp. To protect the respiratory system, wear a respirator.

During the installation of stone wool, you should take a break to ventilate the room. Open packs of material must be shifted carefully, not allowing them to fall, so that microparticles do not stand out from them. During the installation of thermal insulation on the construction site, there must be no children or people who do not use protective equipment.

Are there any nuances in transportation and storage?

Mineral wool insulation should be stored in whole packages on a flat dry surface, the height of the stacks should not exceed 2 meters. Stacks are made in closed rooms protected from rain and moisture. If the mineral wool is stored outside, it must be covered with plastic wrap or tarpaulin.

Mats and insulation boards are transported horizontally in covered trucks. During transportation, the insulation must be protected from mechanical damage and precipitation. During loading / unloading and transportation, it is impossible to squeeze the material too much.

You need to unpack the mineral wool correctly. For this, the insulation is taken out of the package immediately before installation, which significantly reduces the risk of damage to the thermal insulation. Insulation packaging can be used on a construction site when laying out mineral wool (when you need to protect it from contamination), it is also suitable as bags for construction waste.

What is the best cotton wool?

There is no unequivocal answer to this question, since different types of material will be the best option in different conditions.

Basalt soft wool. It is used where high loads are not expected. This material can be used to insulate walls made using frame technology, as well as for thermal insulation of floors and roofs. The fact that cotton wool is soft does not mean at all that its performance is poor. It is simply produced from thin fibers, which ensures the presence of many cavities in the insulation, in which air is retained, which prevents heat loss.

Mineral wool of medium hardness (density). It is used mainly for warming ventilated facades, where air flows are created in the air cavities high speed... It is also used for fire-prevention measures, sound and heat insulation of ventilation channels. Medium density mineral wool can be installed without problems instead of soft basalt wool, but the cost of thermal insulation will be more expensive.

Rigid basalt wool. This insulation is used in places where high loads are possible on it. For example, where it is planned to insulate walls with reinforcement and plastering (wet method) or when creating some types of floors.

Cylindrical heaters for pipes. Usually they are produced with a diameter of more than 50 mm. They are slotted parts that you can unfold and slide over the pipe, or two-part models that connect on the pipe.

Foil basalt wool. This insulating material is characterized not only by low heat transfer, but also reflects heat, directing it inside the premises. Mineral wool can be covered with foil on one or both sides. When laying, the heat insulator is installed with the foil side to the heat source. The scope of this insulation is quite extensive, it is considered a universal material suitable for all methods and types of thermal insulation.

Sewing cotton wool. It is a very strong mats, one side of which is sheathed / reinforced with steel mesh (galvanized, stainless, fire-resistant, acid-resistant). The canvases can be of various thicknesses and can be used to perform various types of thermal insulation. Sewn wool is usually non-combustible, therefore it can be used to insulate surfaces with elevated temperatures (up to plus 660-700 degrees).

An important technical characteristic of mineral wool is its specific gravity. Insulation, the density of which is up to 75 kg per cubic meter, is ideal for thermal insulation of planes where the impact of heavy loads is not expected, for example, for laying in ceilings in attics and roofs. Basalt wool of low density is often used for wrapping pipes of heating plants, boilers and similar nodes / communications.

Stone wool, the density of which is up to 125 kg per cubic meter, keeps its shape well and is great for insulating ceilings, walls inside buildings, and various vertical structures. It is used for thermal insulation of brick walls, as well as foam block or aerated concrete surfaces. Mineral wool of this specific density allows not only to insulate the building, but also to ensure its reliable sound insulation.

Basalt wool of high density - from 175 to 200 kg per cubic meter, is characterized, in addition, by increased rigidity, hence the abbreviation in its name (PPZh). Such a heater is used for thermal insulation of initially too cold planes - reinforced concrete, sheet metal. The PPZh-200 brand is also excellent for arranging additional protection of residential buildings from fire. Only high-density mineral wool can be installed using the technology of façade insulation with a wet method.

For insulation of a house and any room in it, stone wool is perfect - one of the varieties of mineral wool. With the help of our advice, you can choose the right material, make high-quality installation and take care of its long service life.

Stone wool: what is it made of

Cotton wool is made from rocks of basalt, marl or metamorphic origin. Basalt rocks are considered to be the best component. However, the quality will determine the acidity, which must be controlled by the addition of carbonate. The higher the acidity, the stronger and more durable the cotton wool.

Stone wool insulation: what is it made of? Stone wool also contains a binder that bonds the fibers. The most famous substances are synthetic. They include phenol-formaldehyde resins and various impurities that make the material waterproof.

In modern production, stone insulation is made from a special component - "Pele's hair", or glass fiber. The technology of stone wool for its production consists of a number of stages, the main of which is the separation of the rock into fibers.

Characteristics and indicators of stone wool

The material has several important properties that are indispensable for repair or construction.

• Thermal insulation. Insulating walls with stone wool is a great way to protect yourself from the cold in winter, and from the heat in the summer. The room temperature will be constantly adjusted. The effectiveness of this property depends on the components in the composition. It turned out that stone wool for wall insulation is the right solution.
• Not flammable. Even at temperatures above 1000˚C, stone wool does not ignite. Therefore, it belongs to safe materials, and, moreover, protects other flammable parts of the house, preventing the spread of fire. Although binders evaporate already at 200˚C.
• Permanent form. Due to this characteristic, cotton wool can withstand mechanical stress. This allows the use of stone wool for floors that are subject to stress at all times. The effectiveness depends on the selected binder.
• Soundproofing. Provides simple protection from street or neighborhood noise, as the fibers interfere with the propagation of sounds.
• Waterproof. Excess moisture indoors, it goes outside without getting into the cotton wool. This property helps maintain optimal humidity. And no matter how humid the air is, stone wool always remains dry, and mold and other filth will not start on it.
• Environmental friendliness. During production and operation environment does not lend itself to negative influences.

Pros and cons

Mineral wool for insulation has the following advantages:

• Non-flammable;
• Waterproof;
• Stone wool - insulation for walls - has a wide range of operating temperatures;
• Eco-friendly;
• Safe during installation and operation;
• Good heat and sound insulation;
• It is easier to insulate something with stone wool than other materials.

Flaws:

• Wall insulation with cotton wool is a costly undertaking. Don't expect to buy cheap cotton wool. Low prices for it indicate that it contains a lot of impurities and low-quality material.
• Dust. The process of warming the walls of the house with stone wool is accompanied by an abundant amount of dust, especially if it is handled carelessly. For protection, it is advisable to take a respirator, although a regular mask from a pharmacy will do.

Stone wool: application

Cotton wool insulation is used in the construction of baths, saunas, swimming pools, when laying communications, wells and air ducts. They even put it in the foundations of houses.

Depending on where the insulation will be used, and what kind of load it will bear, it is divided into classes:

• Soft. Suitable for laying wells and ventilated walls.
• Semi-hard. Suitable for walls in multi-storey buildings, for thermal insulation of pipes.
• Hard. Used in foundations, floors.

Is there any harm to health during installation?

Many inexperienced builders often confuse stone wool and glass wool, although in fact they are two different materials belonging to the same class of mineral wool. Because of this, a common myth has arisen that stone wool, like glass wool, is also harmful to health, damaging the eyes and lungs. But this is only a delusion.

The point here is in its special structure. Insulation - stone fiber, bound with formaldehyde resins, they do not collapse and do not spread harmful substances. Therefore, we confidently declare that this building material is absolutely safe.

How to choose stone wool?

Before purchasing stone wool, you need to find out the amount of material you need and calculate the load that will fall on the insulation.

We have already said that the prices for it are high, but you can still save money. The following factors will affect the cost:

• Density of cotton wool;
• Manufacturer;
• Binder category and rock;
• The presence of another coating layer;
• Purchased quantity.

When buying, be sure to look at the instructions, they usually indicate the scope of application of stone wool and its specifications... The most trusted companies are Ursa (URSA), Technonikol and Rockwool. The last company is located in Denmark; the insulation materials from this country are of the highest quality, as there are strict certification bodies.

When choosing, check with the seller how the fibers are located: horizontally, vertically or in a chaotic manner. The first two types do not allow the material to deform, and the latter provides good heat and sound insulation.

Depending on the density, stone wool is usually divided into categories. Stone wool: slabs for walls:

• Brand P-75. Suitable for non-stressed horizontal interior surfaces for pipe insulation.
• Insulation for walls of cotton wool of the P-125 brand. Suitable for both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is ideal for insulating ceilings, floors and interior walls.
• PZh-175. Stone insulation for walls made of metal profiled sheet or reinforced concrete.
• Insulation wool PPZh-200. The toughest stone wool. This is used in engineering buildings, protecting them from fire.

Which mineral wool is best for wall insulation

Warming a house with stone wool begins with the choice of a manufacturer.

Stone wool "ROCKWOOL" is popular both in the domestic and foreign markets. It has the following distinctive characteristics:

• Good level of strength;
• Mineral wool for wall insulation is 15 years old;
• The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner;
• Helps save electricity as claimed by the manufacturer;
• An additional layer to increase moisture resistance.

Stone wool "Technonikol".

• It is produced only on the basis of basalt rocks;
• Additional layer for noise reduction;
• Low weight for easy work.

Insulation for walls stone wool "URSA":

• Special packaging will make it easy to transport the material and work with it;
• Does not contain formaldehyde resins, therefore it is recommended for schools, hospitals, etc.

Buying a truly high-quality product can be difficult at times. Therefore, it is imperative to know some important points.

• Pay attention to where and how the cotton wool is stored. Most often, it is stored in its original packaging and wrapped in shrink wrap. Make sure there are no holes or cuts on the packaging. Cotton wool should not be outdoors, but under a canopy.
• If stone wool is packed in cardboard boxes (they usually contain expensive insulation), then the place of its storage should be protected from moisture. Even after a little getting wet, it will not be usable.
• Purchase goods only from trusted sellers. Give preference to those stores that are located closer to you - this will reduce the cost of delivery.

Installation of stone wool

Before properly insulating the wall with mineral wool, you need to determine where the work will be carried out. After all, the insulation of the walls of the house with cotton wool on each site will look different. One technology is used on the facades, and a completely different one on the attic.

Balcony and loggia

Effective insulation of a house with stone wool directly depends on the quality of the surface preparation. Therefore, it is logical to briefly talk about it.

• Remove all unnecessary garbage from the loggia. Take the necessary measurements by calculating the amount of mineral wool. Assess the floor load.
• Next comes the glazing of the balcony. Here, it is better to give preference to plastic windows. Seal all gaps in frames and railings polyurethane foam... This will greatly protect the balcony from moisture and cold.
• Waterproofing is the next step. Protective agents (roll or coating) must first of all be applied to the floor and ceiling. But wall protection is also desirable.

Only now you can proceed directly to the installation. Thermal insulation with mineral wool slabs is as follows:

1. The first step is to make the crate. It is most often made of wood (less often of metal). The optimal thickness of the timber is 1 cm more than that of the stone wool slab. The dimensions of the cells in the lattice should be about a centimeter smaller than a piece of insulation.
2. Insulation for walls with cotton wool: laying goes from top to bottom: first the ceiling, then the walls and the floor. The ceiling needs a denser mineral wool, the usual one is suitable for walls and floors.
3. A special glue is applied to the slab and it is put in place in the cell. Before that, do not forget to clean the surface of dirt and remove any irregularities.
4. You can press the board firmly and evenly using plywood of a suitable size. Thermal insulation: Rock wool is the best material for this.
5. The last stage is vapor barrier with penofol (it is sometimes replaced with ordinary polyethylene).

Stone wool for attic walls

After you have installed the rafters and laid the roof on them, you can start insulating the house with cotton wool. But first you need to create a layer of waterproofing. It will not allow water to get onto the mineral wool and wooden structures. The best material for this is ordinary polyethylene. Fasteners are carried out with a stapler.

If the layer of waterproofing goes over the entire surface of the roof (up to the ridge), then the insulation can only be placed up to the attic ceiling. This is only done to save money. High-quality repair implies insulation of the entire roof.

When laying stone wool, the best option is when the width of the roof beams is equal to the width of the slab. In this case, they simply fit between them, attaching to the stapler. Additional reliability will be provided by the slatted crate or rope mesh laid from below. All the cracks formed are sealed with polyurethane foam, and the crate (if it is made of wood) is treated with an antiseptic. The stone wool of the wall slabs insulates perfectly.

The last is the vapor barrier layer. Many builders choose glassine as a suitable material - it is cheap and perfectly fulfills its functions. It is attached to the rafters with a stapler, it is advisable to glue the attachment points with tape.

Insulation of walls outside with stone wool

In the process of insulating a house, the question often arises: is it better to insulate the walls from the outside or from the inside? There are both disadvantages and positive aspects to each option. For the first option, they are as follows:

• High protection against cold, noise, sun and wind;
• Will not let the walls freeze, because moisture is released. For the same reason, mold and mildew do not form on structures;
• The area of ​​the room inside will not decrease;
• There is an opportunity to choose any internal design, as well as, if necessary, to change it.

Convinced of the advantages of this method, we insulate the stone walls of the house. The traditional way laying looks simple: the first insulating layer is mineral wool of medium density (75 kg / m³), ​​it covers the unevenness of the wall; the second layer is high-density wool (from 125 kg / m³), ​​its role is to create an even and hard surface of the wall, because this will facilitate the following finishing works.

In total, cotton wool for wall insulation on the outside should be a layer of 15 cm or more. The most optimal option is when the thermal insulation is located between the load-bearing wall and the outer cladding.

In practice, you can insulate the house with stone wool from the outside according to the following plan.

1. The first step is to prepare the surface. Remove unevenness from the walls and apply a layer of plaster. Sometimes it makes sense to apply a couple of coats.
2. Next comes the installation of metal guides, they are fixed above the basement of the building using anchor bolts.
3. How to properly insulate a wall with mineral wool? The first layer of heat-insulating material is installed (immediately followed by the second). Glue is applied to the back of the board and it is pressed against the wall. All external wall insulation with stone wool takes place according to the same scheme.
4. Metal corners, which are attached to external slopes, will help protect the material from deformation.
5. A facing brick is placed on top of the layer, the seams are sealed with plaster.

We examined the first installation method, called a ventilated facade. You can also insulate the walls with stone wool in the second way.

The second method is called "wet". The technology is only slightly different from the previous one. Stone wool: wall insulation:

Both of these methods are equally good at insulating the house.

After you have insulated the walls with stone wool from the outside, you need to take care of some important things.

The thermal insulation layer will increase the thickness of the walls by about 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to lengthen the slopes, ebb tides and window sills so that weather conditions do not spoil the material.

If you decide to install more than two layers of mineral wool, then this is a bad idea. The more layers, the more air pockets between them. And they lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation properties.

Insulation of walls from the inside with stone wool

Thermal insulation with stone wool from the inside is much faster and cheaper, and even novice builders can easily cope with this matter. However, work can only be done in a room where there is no high humidity. The advantages of wall insulation from the inside are as follows:

• Low cost and labor intensity.
• You can put insulation not only on the entire building, but also on individual rooms in which you will live. This is quite economical.
• It is permissible to work at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions.

Thermal insulation of a house with mineral wool can be started by calculating the required amount of mineral wool. There is a special formula for this. Wall area (m²) multiplied by the thickness of the mineral wool (mm) and divided by the volume of the package. That is, if the area is 15, the thickness is 100, the volume is 0.432, then you need about three and a half packages.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with stone wool is carried out in several stages. General scheme An insulated wall may look something like this: first there is a load-bearing wall, behind it is a layer of vapor barrier, then - thermal insulation, and another vapor barrier layer, at the end there is an interior finish.

Stone wool for interior walls is of medium density (look for values ​​around 100 kg / m³). Such mineral wool will increase the wall thickness by 8-10 cm. Take this into account when carrying out repair work. It is possible to insulate a small room with mineral wool in one day.

One of the methods for implementing the above plan is using a relatively simple technology. Stone wool: installation:

1. A solid support is created from metal hangers and profiles. You can put a foam tape under it to improve the thermal insulation in the room. If you plan to create two layers of mineral wool, then you will need one more additional frame.
2. Then comes the vapor barrier. If polyethylene was chosen as the material, then a small air chamber must be left between the wall. It is allowed to fasten either with tape or glue.
3. Stone wool insulation is placed inside each section in the frame.
4. Then there is a layer of vapor barrier again. This time it is better to fasten it directly to the metal profile with self-tapping screws.
5. Plasterboard is placed on top and interior decoration is made.

The stone wool of the inner walls, like the wool of the outer walls, perfectly protects against unnecessary noise. This is especially useful in homes that are near roads.

Insulation of the foundation

Usually baths need to insulate the foundation, so let's talk about them first. Why is it necessary to insulate the foundation?

• Due to the temperature difference inside and outside, condensation forms, spoiling the base of the bath. Insulation helps to cope with this problem.
• Thermal insulation will reduce the amount of firewood required for kindling.
• Stone wool can protect against some mechanical damage.

It is better to insulate with mineral wool on the outside of the plinth, because in this way the foundation will be better protected, which means it will last longer. The installation technique shown below is suitable for strip foundations. Mineral wool insulation:

1. Free the base from the ground. To do this, a trench is dug with a depth of one and a half meters and a width of 50 cm.
2. After that, sand is put, and the foundation is coated with bitumen.
3. Then the insulation is installed. Its thickness is at least 20 cm. Seams formed with foam. At the corners of the bath, a layer of mineral wool is 1.5 thicker. It's easy to work with stone wool here.
4. Stone wool needs additional protection from a brick wall (thickness - from 25 cm), which is placed around the perimeter. There will be a blind area at the top.

Several rules and notes for quality work.

How to choose and apply glue to mineral wool

Without correct selection and the use of glue to insulate can sag, ceasing to work effectively. Stone wool is a rather unusual material, and not every adhesive can provide high-quality adhesion to the wall.

The highest adhesion will be provided by polymer-cement compositions. They are sold as a dry mix similar to cement. There are several well-known brands: EK THERMEX, ERESIT CT190, ERESIT CT180.

Using the instructions on the package, dilute the mixture with water and mix well (repeat the same after 5 minutes). The mortar will retain its adhesive properties for 2 hours.

Apply the mortar evenly on a flat surface of the wall so that 7-8 glue circles are obtained. We also apply glue on the back of the cotton wool (closer to the edges); the surface should be covered by more than half of the composition. The joints are also better to miss. The glue hardens for a while, so it is possible to lay the slab correctly. Attaching stone wool to a wall is easy.

Sometimes, for greater reliability, additional fastening may be required. Anchor bolts or battens fixed to the battens can help here.

Mineral wool is usually called a fibrous material that is used in the form of thermal insulation; it is made on a synthetic basis. Basalt minerals are used for its manufacture. Obviously, due to its belonging to the basalt group, it is sometimes called stone wool. Cotton wool is resistant to high temperatures, it almost does not react to the influence chemical substances, but most importantly, this material is ideal for sound and thermal insulation.

Fibrous products are currently quite popular and in demand, and in most cases they are used for thermal insulation. Until now, at the same time, disputes and debates continue about how far it is generally permissible to use mineral wool as thermal insulation for residential and industrial buildings.

Each of the parties has enough weighty facts and arguments, both "against" and "for", however, this does not affect the popularity of this material at all and is not displayed in any way, its sales volumes are constantly increasing every new day.

If you decide to insulate your house with this material, then you should follow some safety measures. The complex of these measures is simple and cannot cause additional difficulties.

First of all, work with this material should be in a well-ventilated room. You can cut the cotton wool with a simple knife, but it should be sharpened as sharply as possible; in extreme cases, you can use a fairly sharp chisel.

We should not forget about the means of protection. Everyone who will come into direct contact with this material must be dressed in protective overalls, and gloves must be worn on his hands.

If you have to carry out grinding, then a mask should be added to this set, or it is better to take a respirator, in order to provide protection from small elements of cotton wool to the respiratory tract, and eyes should be protected with special glasses. The mucous membrane of the eye is quite sensitive and the ingress of the smallest particles into them is extremely dangerous.

After the actions with mineral wool are over, you should immediately change clothes, rinse your hands thoroughly with cold water and only then move on to the face. If, despite all the protective measures, after completing work with cotton wool, you feel itching and redness begins to appear on the skin, you should not panic and worry too much.

The side effect is caused by the smallest particles of cotton wool that have got on the skin, it is short-lived. Apart from a slight discomfort, no consequences await you, and after a few hours these unpleasant sensations will disappear.

Safety precautions should be observed when working with any type of material, of course, mineral wool is no exception.

Some refer to the likelihood of an allergic reaction, but there is no official information on this topic. If you feel you are developing an allergy, you should immediately consult an allergist. You should not self-medicate, as more serious consequences are likely to develop.

The fact that it is much more effective to insulate walls from the outside is known to many. But this is not always possible. For example, residents of high-rise buildings simply have no choice, and the owners of private houses may not want to spoil the facade already finished with expensive materials. In such cases, they often come to such a decision as to insulate the walls of the house with mineral wool from the inside.

This is a fairly simple matter, all the work can be done by hand. But for this you need to know about all the nuances of working with this material.

What you need to know about the material

Mineral or stone wool in the construction markets is called a synthetic-based heat-insulating fibrous material, which includes basalt minerals. It has high resistance to chemicals and high temperature, low thermal conductivity.

For reference. Mineral wool also includes glass wool and slag wool. But it is the stone that has the most the best characteristics, allowing you to use it for wall insulation.

Insulation for walls of mineral wool can be used for both external and internal thermal insulation of walls, as well as a sound-absorbing material.

Forms of issue

Mineral wool is produced in rolls or in the form of slabs of various thicknesses, widths and densities. The price of the material depends on these parameters.

Note! The higher the density, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material. You should also pay attention to the orientation of the fibers: it is better if they are oriented randomly, and not in one direction.

On sale you can also find insulation, one side of which is covered with foil. With internal wall insulation, this layer can serve as an excellent heat reflector if installed with the foil side inside the room.

Disadvantages of mineral wool and safety precautions when working with it

The main disadvantage of glass wool and slag wool is fiber fragility. When working with them, the smallest particles of material float in the air and enter the respiratory tract, skin and mucous membranes, causing irritation and more serious problems.

Rock wool fibers are more durable, but they use formaldehyde resins as binders, which release phenol, which is harmful to health. This does not mean that it is impossible to use it for internal insulation, you just need to follow certain safety measures. In addition, phenol begins to be released only at sufficiently high temperatures.

There is a safety instruction for working with mineral wool.

Its main points:

1. Use a respirator and special glasses to protect mucous membranes;
2. Wear long sleeves and gloves;

1. Do not cut and install cotton wool near open containers with drinking water and food;
2. At the end of the work, take out the remnants of the material and carefully clean the room.

As for the safety of operation, it is ensured by the isolation of the mineral wool from the inner space of the room with any dense material. They most often become drywall, less often decorative wall panels. But this already refers to the question of how to insulate the walls with mineral wool.

Installation methods

Whatever material you choose for internal wall insulation, it must be closed with a false wall. The only exception can be foam plastic, which can be plastered, but this is not about it.

Since the false wall is attached to a frame rigidly tied to the main wall, it should be used for the installation of mineral wool. This can be done in two ways.

Suspension mount

This method is convenient for installing rolled mineral wool.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Having made preliminary markings, fix straight hangers for metal profiles on the wall. Fasteners are selected depending on the material of the walls. The suspensions are installed one under the other with a step of 40-60 cm, the distance between them horizontally when facing the walls with plasterboard is taken equal to 60 cm.

1. Bend both halves of the suspensions forward, giving them a U-shape.
2. Measure the height of the wall and cut a strip of mineral wool from the roll with a margin of 10-15 cm.
3. Having applied the insulation to the wall with a slight overlap on the ceiling, pierce it with the protruding shelves of the suspensions, as if putting them on.

Attention! Do not cut off excess mineral wool. The material is easily wrinkled, taking the desired shape.

1. Install the next strip so that the edges of the strips fit snugly against each other, leaving no gaps. To do this, you can make a small overlap, then slightly crush the edge of the second strip and press it into place.
2. Next comes the installation of a frame for plasterboard sheets, consisting of horizontal guides and vertical rack profiles. They are attached in level to previously installed suspensions over the insulation.

1. On top of the profiles, the insulation should be covered with a vapor barrier film. It overlaps and is attached to the profiles with small screws.

Note. If you are using foil mineral wool, no additional vapor barrier is required. The foil will not only prevent the penetration of moisture from the room into the insulation, but also reflect warm air flows back into the room.

After the completion of all these works, drywall can be attached to the frame, followed by puttying of joints and decorative finishing.

If you have already assembled the frame, and only then decided to insulate the wall, you should not dismantle it. Roll or slab can be slipped under the racks, still observing the principle of tight packing without gaps. But, since the mineral wool will no longer be held by suspensions, it will be necessary to secure it with horizontal inserts.

Laying in a ready-made frame

It should be noted that the previous method has one significant drawback: metal suspensions, which are in direct contact with the outer wall, become cold bridges, through which it is transmitted to the inner skin. This is one of the reasons why it is preferable to insulate the walls with mineral wool from the outside, and not from the inside.

However, this can be avoided by using wooden blocks as frame elements. This material also has its drawbacks: the tree is afraid of moisture, from the action of which it can rot, and with temperature changes it can warp.

Treatment of the bars with antiseptic compounds and their good drying before installation helps to minimize the risk of such troubles.

Warming takes place as follows:

1. Mount the frame made of bars with a section of 40x50 mm.

Advice. Before attaching the block to a brick or concrete wall, release it under it. It will prevent moisture absorption and create additional sound insulation.

1. Even if you are going to sheathe the wall with plasterboard, the frame should consist not only of vertical posts, but also of horizontal jumpers on which the insulation will rest.
2. Place the mineral wool in the formed sections of the frame, cutting it to size so that it completely, without gaps, fills the gaps between the bars.

Mineral wool can be easily cut with an ordinary sharp knife

Attention! The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be no more than the thickness of the bars, i.e. no more than 5 cm in our case. If a thicker material is required for high-quality insulation, use blocks of the appropriate size.

1. As in the previous case, stretch a vapor barrier film or foil foamed foam over the frame, securing them to the bars with a stapler.

The same scheme is used to insulate the frame walls with mineral wool. But, since this material absorbs moisture well, while losing its thermal insulation properties, it is necessary to ensure its waterproofing and provide an air gap between it and the outer skin of the building.