It's no secret that temperature control appeared about half a year ago, or rather in the summer of 2015 and instantly became one of the discussed topics of vaping. Let's say this is a kind of new standard that manufacturers of electronic cigarettes should be equal to. The vaping industry does not stand in one place, it did not take long to wait and today there are a huge number of temperature-controlled varwatts on store shelves.

Varivatt was mentioned by me for a reason: temperature control electronic cigarette- its direct successor, which with the help of new functions improves the concept of power regulation. Each mod with a TC allows you to adjust the power, but at a preset temperature, maintaining it is given high priority, and if the spiral is very hot, the board will give the command to reset the power to cool it down. At the same time, for the vaper, the sensation of hovering practically does not change: it will seem to him that the power has remained at the same level. When the spiral cools down, the board, on the contrary, will increase the power, in any case, while maintaining the temperature.

How does thermal control work? The whole secret lies in the peculiarities of the material of the evaporator - titanium and nickel... Both metals tend to increase resistance when heated and do it very smoothly. When a new evaporator is installed, the mod board remembers the resistance of the cold coil, and then, by the number of Ohms, it can determine how much the coil has warmed up. The use of titanium and nickel allows the electronics to determine the exact temperature. Unfortunately, other materials (the same canthal) do not have a clear and direct interaction between heating and resistance, and their use in boxes with temperature control is reduced to zero.

And, of course, for the full-fledged operation of temperature control, appropriate devices are needed, of which there are more than enough today (the same Kanger Subtank, Eleaf GS-TANK TC, Sigelei 150W TC Sigelei 150W TC and many, many others). The tanks differ from the usual ones in the possibility of installing titanium and nickel heads, and the peculiarity of the mods lies in a special board that "understands" the resistance indicators of nickel and titanium.

Temperature control allows you to adjust the temperature in the accepted standard in the range from 200 to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, or in the range from 100 to 135 degrees Celsius. The unit of measurement automatically switches from Watts to degrees during adjustment. In some mods there is a switch to Joules, which determine the speed of heating the coil. It can be set manually, or you can entrust this business to the automation, believe me, “it knows better” and will choose the required optimal value.

Let's highlight the main pros and cons of temperature control:

We will attribute the following points to the pluses:

1) Cooler steam(by setting the temperature, we limit the “wasted” heating of the spiral, thanks to which the steam will become cooler and tastier);
2) No burning aftertaste – saga of Harry Potter and his vaping adventures - completed... The mod's board monitors the heating of the coil and reduces the power in time when it overheats, thanks to which the possibility of overheating the wick is completely excluded;
3) The heating temperature of the coil does not depend on the airflow and the amount of liquid(when the liquid starts to run out - the box board will simply give out less steam or stop heating altogether);
4) The spiral and wick will last much longer;
5) Reduced battery and fluid consumption;
6) Intense liquid taste(with a simple selection of temperature, you can discover familiar liquids in a new way);
7) Simplified setup- we forget about Watts, Ohms and Volts, it is enough to set a comfortable value in Celsius, Fahrenheit or Joules;
8) Steam flavor and intensity are independent of blowing

And, of course, there are also minor disadvantages:

1) Cost of devices and the selection of serviced materials will add up to a tangible sum;
2) Danger of emission of harmful substances when using nickel- although this is a controversial point that is daily discussed today, but keeping silent about it is a crime, for those who want to neutralize this threat, titanium should be used in service.

As we can see, temperature control is a trend of the present and the future, conventional varivolts / varivatts remain in the past, new technologies are replacing, which dictate the development of vaping. There are many more interesting things to come in the future. All thick and tasty, both on nickel and titanium and on cantal and on ………

Produces power up to 200 watts, and in some models even more. With this power, there is no question why the electronic cigarette heats up - this is a natural process. The temperature rises not only of the coil, but also of the battery itself. The case temperature is considered to be absolutely normal up to 60 o Celsius.

Overheating as a signal of improper use of an e-cigarette

• When the bather puffs too vigorously and frequently, the body does not have time to cool down. Try limiting your deadlift to 4 seconds and take long breaks in between.
• Refueling is running out. The liquid level is clearly visible through the walls of the tank. The full atomizer is cooled by the liquid. As soon as it remains slightly at the bottom, the spiral cools down more slowly.
• Viscous or excessively flowing liquid. In the first case, the wick does not have time to soak; in the second, it evaporates too quickly. The cotton wool starts to smoke and from this the body of the atomizer heats up more.
• Vaper clings to the battery power button, but does not tighten.
• When smoking e-cigarettes, a coked coil heats up more than a clean one. In addition to overheating, the steam from it takes on an unpleasant aftertaste.

Heating signals a possible breakdown

When the potential causes have been corrected, but the e-cigarette continues to heat up, it is worth checking the tank and mod connection. If everything is ok with the connector, then there is a problem with the board. Maybe the contacts have moved away or there are problems in the operation of the board itself. The contacts need to be soldered, and in the case of replaceable batteries, they may need to be replaced.

In any case, you need diagnostics at a service center and qualified repairs. But it is dangerous to ignore the problem: the atomizer and the mod will fail completely as a result of constant overheating. And Chinese copies generally explode. Be careful and use your e-mail correctly!

What to do if the button on the mech mod gets hot? This question is often asked by vapers on the Internet, and, as a rule, no one can give a clear answer to it. In fact, this problem is easily solved, the main thing is to know the cause of its occurrence. So, let's take a closer look at this topic.

Cause and investigation

Let's start with the most important thing, with the mechanical mod device. After all, the mech mod or its individual parts are heated, just because of the design features. Fur is preferred by many bathers because of its simplicity. There are no boards, unnecessary additional settings, temperature sensors, and so on. All you need is to drip the wick and enjoy the thick and tasty clouds. The construction of the fur is so simple that it consists of a couple of parts:

• metal case;
• battery;
• button;
• heating element.

After pressing the button, the contacts are closed, the spiral heats up and evaporates the liquid, turning it into thick steam. It would seem that such a simple design excludes fur breakage or heating. However, it is not. It is precisely because of their simplicity that the bellows are heated. Let's explain now.

As a rule, these devices are so simple that they do not even have an insulating material that prevents the battery from contacting the body of the fur. This leads to closures.

However, this is not the only reason due to which the button on the fur can warm up. There are others. Let's take a closer look at them.

Fur battery

In most cases, the reason lies precisely in the battery. The main thing is to choose the right battery for this device. Let's start with interesting fact... The fact is that the fur allows the spirals to consume as much power as it needs for maximum heating, because there are no thermal sensors and additional limiters here.

What follows from this? It's simple. For example, a fur uses a coil with a resistance of up to 0.1 Ohm, and a battery with a capacity of 4.2 Volts. Based on this, we can say that the spiral will require 42 amperes for its maximum warm-up. If you choose a low-quality battery for the mech mod, then this may be the reason that it will subsequently warm up.

Give preference to power sources from well-known and trusted brands. Don't buy cheap batteries. Today there are three types of batteries:

• cobalt;
• manganese;
• hybrid.

According to experienced bathers, it is the hybrid batteries that are the safest, and do not lead to the effect of warming up the button of the fur. In addition, they are more stable and durable.

The spiral can also be the reason for the heating of the mod. It is necessary not only to be able to wind it correctly, but also to select the required resistance. Many vapers, in pursuit of thick clouds of steam, underestimate the resistance by using winding wires with a smaller cross section. This can lead not only to the heating of the mod, but also to the explosion of the battery.

We clean the vaping device

Or maybe the button was warming up due to the fact that your fur is not regularly cleaned? Well, this is a very valid reason. It is necessary to clean the mech mod not because of the aesthetic side of the issue, but primarily because of the personal safety of the bather. Burning contacts, scale, burning - all this can cause a short circuit, after which the fur or its individual parts begin to get very hot. Well, we found out the reason for the heating of the button, let's look at how to fix this problem correctly.

Cleaning a mech mod is a fairly simple process, but it requires certain sequential steps. The cleaning process itself can be divided into several parts:

• cleaning the case;
• cleaning the button;
• removal of burn-on in the container part.

Let's take a closer look at these processes.

We clean the case

If the mod's case is steel, then getting rid of dirt will not be difficult at all. It is enough to wash it in hot soapy water. Then you need to wipe it dry and wipe it with an alcohol solution.

With brass and copper mods, the story is slightly different. They tend to oxidize quickly.

There are several ways to do this. The first of them provides for more frequent cleaning of the case, in comparison with the metal one. You can also do otherwise, cover the body with a full patina, which will prevent the oxidation process.

Methods for cleaning brass and copper mods

There are several ways to clean the body of the mod at home:

Cleaning the button

The first signal that a button needs cleaning is when its temperature rises during vaping. It so happens that the button literally gets hot, burning the bather's hands. Why is this happening? It's all about oxidized contacts. Bad contact leads to short circuits, due to which it heats up.

Before starting the cleaning process, you need to disassemble our button. This is done quite easily. It is necessary to unscrew the inner screw, after which you need to immerse all the disassembled components of the button in a bath of vinegar for 10 minutes. Then take them out and wipe them thoroughly with a napkin.

To clean the contacts, you need to use a zero skin. You can also use a regular eraser, only with the side that erases the ink of the pen, not a regular pencil.

After cleaning, the contact should literally shine. When reassembling the button, make sure that no debris gets inside it.

Cleaning the connector part

If your fur uses a hybrid connector, it does not need to be cleaned. More precisely, it has already cleared itself when the case was soaked. Regarding the 510 connectors, before cleaning them, you need to disassemble them and polish the pin with an eraser, since we cleaned the button contact. It will not be superfluous to clean the threads from dirt.

Now you know the reason why the button and the fur itself get hot when vaping. As you can see, everything is quite simple, and thanks to the above guide, you should be able to fix this problem.

In contact with

Many e-cigarette smokers are faced with such a common problem as strong heating of the device during use. An increase in temperature indicates a malfunction of the product, which can lead to permanent damage. In this regard, it is necessary to consider, why does the vape heat up.

Why does the electronic cigarette heat up?

Vapes are heated for the following reasons:

What is the danger of overheating a cigarette?

Vape when used does not should be heating... Long-term operation of a defective electronic device can cause the following malfunctions:

• burnout of the spiral;
• waste of wires that connect the atomizer to the battery, as a result of which the vape stops working;
• failure of the battery, which requires replacement of the battery.

On rare occasions, if the electronic cigarette overheats, the battery will explode.

You need to vape vape correctly

Wrong hover leads to heating of the vape. To exclude damage, adhere to the following rules:

1. The power button must be pressed only when tightening.
2. It should be tightened slowly, with medium intensity. The tightening time should not last more than 5-6 seconds.
3. For 1 minute, it is forbidden to do more than 15 puffs.
4. If the vape is not in use, it should be turned off. With a long break, it can be disassembled.

The correct way is to burn

Burning is a complex and delicate procedure. The slightest deviation in the process leads to damage that cannot be repaired. The purpose of burning is to clean the atomizer when other methods do not help.

The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

• the atomizer is unscrewed from the main part of the electronic cigarette, purged and washed with clean water;
• the battery is connected to the atomizer, the power button is pressed several times (7-10 times), while it is held for 4-5 seconds;
• after the element has cooled down, blowing is repeated;
• 3-4 drops of vape liquid are applied to the atomizer bridge;
• the device is being assembled.

After these manipulations, the electronic cigarette can be used further.

Correct selection of the spiral

Overheating of the vape can lead to burnout of the coil, as a result of which it needs to be replaced. The selection takes into account the battery voltage. If the spirals are chosen incorrectly, then at high battery voltage and low resistance, the part will burn.

By the resistance value, the spirals are classified as follows:

• for high-resistance (resistance more than 2.6 ohms);
• for medium resistance (resistance 1.9-2.6 ohms);
• for low-resistance (resistance 1.4-1.8 ohms).

The most popular are vapes with a resistance of 1.8 ohms and a voltage of 3.7 V.

Almost anyone who seriously decides to switch from cigarettes to vaping, sooner or later tries to use a RDA instead of a tank. RDA and RTDA devices have a number of advantages over clearomizers, but beginners also have inconveniences: instead of a large amount of tasty steam, they get burns and leaks. Sometimes the liquid does not flow out of the air ducts, but flies out through the mouthpiece - the drip spits or shoots liquid. This can be due to miscalculations in the design of the vaporizer, but in most cases the spit is caused by improper operation of the e-cigarette.

Wrong winding

A particular difficulty in using a drip is created by the need to independently wind a spiral and lay cotton wool. If you do this without the help of an experienced vaper, there will probably be mistakes at first. It is worth knowing in advance how to properly wind the RDA vaporizer so that it does not spit.

The most common mistake is using a spiral that is too complex. After reading reviews of art coils and learning about their advantages over the windings used in replaceable evaporators of RTA devices, vapers are trying to make a high-quality pigtail or clapton on the go. Then they are on own experience learn that handsome appearance- this is the only advantage of such windings.

Complex windings have two problems:

• there is a lot of free space between the turns of the spiral, the liquid in which does not have time to evaporate and spits out;
• it is easy to make a mistake in the calculations and get a discrepancy between the parameters of the coil and the power of the battery.

The solution is simple - while there is no experience, only the simplest spirals should be used. A single-wire microcoil will work just as well, and will spit much less likely.

If there is no way to replace the winding, you can get rid of spitting liquid using a long mouthpiece - the drops will condense before reaching the mouth.

Improper placement of cotton wool also leads to spitting of liquid - especially in deep well RDAs such as the Goon RDA. To solve this problem, you need:

• fluff cotton moderately - if it is too dense, it will burn, and if it is too "airy", then the electronic cigarette will spit heavily;
• completely fill the spiral with cotton wool so that it is tightly pressed against the coil;
• trim the ends and protruding threads.

Too worn winding can also spit. In this case, it must either be completely replaced or cleaned of carbon deposits.

Using the wrong battery

While with maintenance-free vaporizers everything is pre-calculated by the manufacturer, in the case of RDA it is easy to assemble a winding that does not match the vape battery in its characteristics. As a result, either insufficient or too powerful current is supplied to the spiral. The coil does not heat up enough or overheats, resulting in spitting of liquid.

If the evaporator overheats, the liquid begins to evaporate unevenly, and some of it is shot out of the spiral in the form of drops instead of vapor. Often, overheating occurs due to too active use of an electronic cigarette - to fix the problem, it is enough to let the device rest or blow out the evaporator by making a few idle puffs. If overheating is a constant phenomenon, which is typical for mech mods, it is necessary to replace the coil by increasing its resistance.

If there is a lack of power, the slurry does not evaporate quickly enough, and the user sucks it out, making a puff. This situation can happen if a two-coil RDA - for example, Tsunami - is installed on a weak battery from a starter kit, such as the iJust 2, or the power is not enough on the variwatt. If the current parameters can be adjusted, they will have to be selected empirically, but in the case of the starting mod, it remains only to change the battery, evaporator or winding. With a weak mod, it is better to use a single coil RDA like the Govad RDA.

The reason for the uneven heating of the spiral is often incorrect tightening - too long, sharp and deep. When using a vape, you need to inhale not like a cigarette, but slowly and calmly. You cannot do double puffs either.

Filling with insufficient viscous fluid

There is no one-size-fits-all liquid suitable for every vaporizer. For tanks and drips, diametrically opposite compositions are needed: in maintenance-free evaporators, the flow of liquid to the spiral is impaired, therefore, an increased content of propylene glycol is required. Accustomed to this, vapers pour a traditional batch or Ice Blade into an RDA device and get spits of liquid due to insufficient viscosity. The problem is solved by adding glycerin to the slurry.