Only mortise locks are inserted into the interior doors, since the overhead locks will look somewhat cumbersome and too noticeable from one of their sides. It is not difficult to do this work, especially for those people who have dealt with such a thing at least once. In this article, we will consider how to choose, install and adjust locks of this type correctly.

Castle selection

The most common version of a lock for a wooden interior door is a cylinder mechanism with two round or L-shaped handles and a latch. They are available in several versions, for example with or without a locking device. In the first case, it is possible to close the door on one side, thereby blocking its opening with the handle on the other side. That is, you can lock yourself in the bedroom and relax without fear that someone will enter the room and find you naked. A lock without a locking device is installed only so that the door can be tightly closed with a latch, protecting it from drafts, smells from the kitchen or noise from other rooms.

The locking device does not have to be a key mechanism. There are also locks that have conventional locks of various shapes embedded in the main handle, for example, levers or buttons. Assortment of locks in shops building materials is quite wide, so there should be no problems with the choice.

The variant with the larva and keys is, in fact, a simplified device for the front door lock. Such a lock can usually be unlocked from both sides without fear of becoming a prisoner in your own office, as in cases where a lock with a blocker is installed on the door. The tongue in such doors is activated by pressing the handle. If the door serves as a simple barrier against drafts, and does not serve as a fence of personal space (with a locking device), then it is better to choose a lock with a plastic latch. There is less noise from it, which is very annoying at night in the process of opening and closing the door with family "night owls".

If you look at it, then different options for devices are placed on the doors of rooms with a specific function:

• locks with key cylinders on both sides are suitable for cabinets;
• for bedrooms, toilets, baths and showers - devices with interlocks from the inside;
• for children's rooms, newfangled and expensive magnetic locks are ideal;
• for kitchens, halls and utility rooms, you can limit yourself to ordinary locks with handles and a latch.

But in any case, all devices must be mortise. When choosing, be sure to make sure that the interior linens in your home have the appropriate thickness for the chosen fittings. Standard doors usually have an uneven door leaf thickness: some are at least 35 mm, others 45 mm. It is for them that the appropriate fittings are needed in order to avoid the fact that the lock will be equal in thickness to the door.

In addition, when choosing accessories, you need to pay attention to the general interior of the home and rooms in particular. The door array also has great importance... For example, locking devices designed for a door weighing 40 kg cannot be cut into a door leaf weighing 70 kg. It would be a bad idea to embed a lock with miniature handles and a weak return spring into the canvas, which has huge dimensions.

As for the magnetic lock mentioned above, such a device has a movable positively charged core (bolt) inside, which starts to act only when the door is closed. In this position, it is opposite the negatively charged magnetic strip installed on the door strip. The crossbar is attracted by the bar and securely fixes the door in the closed position. To open the door, you need to turn the handle that disconnects (unlocks) the magnets. After opening the door, the force of interaction of opposite-pole magnets no longer acts on the bolt, so it returns to its place. A completely silent device is gaining popularity, which is so far held back only by the rather high price for this type of construction.

There are also special locking devices for sliding interior doors. They cut into the canvas, have the same rotary handles and a bar on the box. The main difference between such devices is their hook-shaped latch, which is why this constipation is called "harpoon".

Preparation

It doesn't matter which lock was chosen for a particular interior door, the preparation for installation is not much different from its type. You can give advice: if you plan to embed locks on all the interior doors of an apartment or house, then it is best to do this on the door leaves removed from the hinges. Any professional will tell you about it. If you decide to put the locking device in only one door, and removing it from the hinges presents certain difficulties, then it is better to mount the lock in the "standing" position.

Before approaching the door with the tool, you need to carefully consider the purchased model of the locking mechanism, once again check the presence of all the necessary parts and fasteners with a description of the configuration, fully read the instructions and understand the installation diagram of the device. All this must be attached to the product.

Armed with the knowledge and making sure of the completeness of the kit, you should decide at what height you will need to install the device. Typically, locks are cut at a height of 100 to 150 cm from the floor surface. Having chosen the height, you can make a preliminary mark on the canvas and think about the tool that will be needed to insert the existing lock.

Required tools

Consider the option of inserting the simple device with two handles and a latch.

For work you will need:

• chisel;
• electric drill with drills;
• pen drill 22 mm;
• cutter for wood with a diameter of 50 mm;
• Screwdriver Set;
• a hammer;
• measuring instruments (ruler, square, tape measure);
• washable marker or pencil.

An electric drill is needed not only for drilling holes for fasteners, it is also useful for working with a pen drill and cutter. You will need to drill a hole for the lock with a feather drill, and recesses for the decorative overlays of the handles with a milling cutter. Of course, it is more accurate to perform such work with a special tool - a milling cutter, which is adapted precisely for such cutouts in a tree, but because of its high cost, it is more often used by professionals who earn their living as a carpentry business.

Making a groove

When installing the lock, it will be necessary to make grooves for the latch base plate on the end side of the door leaf to a depth of 3-5 mm (depending on the model), as well as for the back strip on the door block.

This is done by hand using a chisel and a hammer using the following technology:

1. the strips are applied to the place of their future location, and are traced around the perimeter with a pencil or thin marker;
2. according to the marked dimensions, the platform is carefully cut with a chisel and a hammer to a shallow depth;
3. further work must be continued, monitoring the depth - it must be strictly along the thickness of the plates, since neither excessive deepening nor too shallow groove is desirable;
4. having cut out the grooves, they are cleaned of irregularities and debris.

In case of excessive deepening, you will have to eliminate the error with a layer of plastic or other material, which, of course, will not improve the operational reliability of the device.

Mounting the device

Before you cut in the lock, you need to make a markup. All plunge-in operations, starting from the markup, are easy to carry out on your own. Usually, such hardware is installed right in the middle of the door leaf from one of its edges. Therefore, a small line using a tape measure marks the middle of the canvas (for a standard door from its bottom, this will be a distance of 95 cm or so in either direction). Then, from the edge of the canvas, at which the lock will be cut, with the help of a square, 6 cm is marked until it intersects with the previous mark.

A prominent point is placed at the intersection of the two marks. It is this point that will be the center through which the axis of the handles and the lock will pass, if the lock needs to be assembled with a lock. There will also be a center for drilling a recess for decorating handles.

• Using the same square, we transfer the center point to the side of the door, right in the middle of the thickness of the leaf. Here will be the center of the cylindrical body of the lock (latch, tongue).
• Now you need to take a feather drill, insert it into an electric drill and drill a hole for the lock case. In this case, a strict perpendicular position of the drill axis with respect to the sidewall of the door leaf should be maintained. The hole depth is about 35 mm.
• You need to change the core drill in the drill to the milling cutter. With this tool, a hole is drilled for the handles. Here, too, you need to carefully monitor the position of the tool so that it is perpendicular to the door both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane. In addition, the door must not be drilled through on one side. The milling cutter has a sharp tip protruding along the axis, like the pen of the previous drill, so it will serve as a guide for completing the work. When this tip drills the opposite side of the blade, then they move with the cutter to the other side and drill a hole from there to avoid damage to the blade at the point where the cutter exits.

• The next step is to adjust the size of the exit hole for the latch using a pen drill. It should be within 23 mm (we had a 22 mm drill). To do this, you just need to adjust the hole to the size by inserting and trying on the lock cylinder to the hole.
• After that, it is necessary to clean the resulting two holes, connected to each other perpendicularly along the axes, from dust, sawdust and burrs.
• We insert the lock cylinder into the corresponding hole and perform the selection of the groove for its base plate using a chisel and a hammer in the manner described above. When the seat for the latch is ready, we install it in place, drill the holes for the fastening screws with a thin drill and attach the lock to the door with them.
• Now you can, by inserting one of the handles into the hole in the lock, mark the exact location of the striker. To do this, the tongue is covered with some dye and, holding the tongue in a recessed state with the handle, the door is closed to the end. After making sure that the door is closed tightly, you need to release the handle, the latch rests against the door block and makes a mark. And already at this mark, you can calculate the location of the mounting plate. Make a sample for it with a chisel and a hammer, as described above. At the end of the groove, set the bar in place and secure with self-tapping screws.

Installation of door locks using a submersible router is much better and easier. The milling machine is also supplied with various templates for working with many known types of locks. With the help of the carriage and these templates, all the work is done to install not only various accessories, but also to correctly install the door itself.

Door structures are supplied to the market in different designs - in cheaper models, the curtains are not equipped with locks, and this problem has to be solved independently. Knowing the nuances of such work, having at hand the simplest household tool, installing a lock in an interior door will not create any difficulties.

What to prepare for the master

For interior door panels, handles complete with a locking mechanism are usually used. Therefore, in addition to the tools traditionally used for tapping (drills with a set of drills, chisels, hammers) and materials will not be enough.

Scotch. Doors installed inside the dwelling have a surface finish. Even metal canvases, not to mention wooden counterparts, are finished with veneer, solid wood or laminated. Since any work related to the installation of something always begins with marking, there is a risk of damage to the door surface during the preparation stage for the tie-in. Therefore, the scotch tape will definitely be needed.

Pen drill set. When inserting, the through passage of the blade cannot be avoided, and one cannot do without such a cutting tool. A conventional drill will definitely not work here. You can also use a crown, but it is impractical to purchase it for one-time work; it costs much more. Moreover, it is not a universal device, since it has a fixed diameter. But a set of feather drills will always come in handy in the house.

If the sash thickness is significant, then it is better to work with a crown. This will greatly facilitate the drilling process, while the accuracy of the passage and the purity of the "channel" will be maximized. But it should be purchased only after purchasing the lock, choosing a tool "for it".

Procedure

All stages of inserting the lock into the interior door with your own hands are performed in a specific sequence.

Canvas markup

At the level of the handle installation (which is, as a rule, 100 ± 10 cm from the floor covering) strips of adhesive tape are glued to the door; from the end part and from the sides. That is, in those areas where drilling will be carried out.

A template is attached to locks from well-known manufacturers. It is much easier to markup using it. Even when buying a product, it is advisable to check its availability.

If there is no factory template, you will have to use a lock. It is partially disassembled, applied to the canvas, and outlined along the contour. Drilling points for fasteners are also marked with a sharp object.

Making holes

Under the handle. So that the "feather" does not go to the side, in the place of the through passage, you need to outline a shallow hole with a minimum diameter, under the tip of the cutting tool. The peculiarity is that at the interior doors the canvas is decorated, so the work is carried out in 2 stages. Drill from one side first, but not completely. As soon as the central tip of the "feather" appears from the back, it is reinstalled on it. Passage of material on both sides avoids chips on the veneer or damage to the laminate.

In this regard, magnetic locks are much easier. After marking, it is enough to drill the “channels” for the fasteners, and you can install the elements fixing the canvas.

For fasteners. To keep them securely, the drill diameter is chosen smaller than the thickness of the self-tapping screws.

Under the latch. The work is not difficult; the main thing here is to maintain the direction of the passage. The drill is selected according to the size of the "tongue", and the hole is made before exiting the "channel" for the handle with the opening mechanism.

Installing the lock

Cleaning of drilling sites. This applies to the holes in which the elements of the lock will be placed. Otherwise, during operation, the mechanism will jam.

Installing the "tongue". After aligning the latch, a frame is superimposed on it, and both its contour and attachment points are marked.

Sampling of wood. If the decorative strip is not drowned, then the interior door will not close completely. An incision is made along the contour (with a knife) so that the lamination or veneer of the canvas is completely cut off from the working area. After that, a small layer of wood is removed with a sharply sharpened chisel with a narrow sting. It is important not to overdo it here. Better to make a shallow notch; subsequently, the frame will simply press into the wood with self-tapping screws.

Reinstalling the "tongue". After that, a decorative strip is applied and slightly attracted by the fasteners.

Installing the handle. The order of work is stipulated in the instructions for the product. Each manufacturer has its own characteristics. Therefore, even at the stage of preparation, it should be clarified how to embed the lock into the interior door. Although usually everything is limited to placing the cylinder mechanisms (on both sides) into the drilled hole and fixing them securely in place. At the last stage, they are closed with decorative rims.

• It should be noted that in the normal position of the door handle, the latch must be extended. Accordingly, when the handle is pressed, the "tongue" is retracted and the web is released.
• The cylindrical elements of the lock should not be overtightened with fasteners. Otherwise, their work will be difficult, and there will be problems with turning the key and free travel of the latch.

Installation of the "mating" part

This is the name of the bar that is attached to the frame of the door block. The "tongue" of the lock extends, and the door closes until it touches the opening. Next, a pencil marks its location in height. It remains only to correctly determine the centering of the bar.

You can focus on the position of the latch at the end of the door. It (after the "tongue" is retracted) closes tightly. It is not difficult to outline the cutting line of the canvas on the block. The rest is simple. The distance of the latch from the outside of the door is measured, and the same is marked on the jamb.

Having lines in height and width, you can outline the contour of the "mating" part on the frame. Everything else is the same as for the overlaid tongue strip (markings + a small sample of wood). With a significant gap between the block and the canvas, the latter will not be needed.

It remains only to check the tightness of the door and the coincidence of the slot in the "mating" part with the latch. It is not difficult to level the mistakes made.

All indicated technological operations are typical. Depending on the model of the castle, their list may increase, but basically such work is standard, and any man can do it.

Gone are the days when curtains were used as interior doors. Now everyone is trying to retire, feel protected and comfortable. For this, the door is used, it would be nice if it also has a lock. But, unfortunately, not all interior doors are sold with locks. Or thrifty owners do not want to change old reliable doors for new ones with latches. What should be done in this case?

The answer is extremely simple: to install the lock in the interior door with your own hands. This process is not complicated, it is enough to purchase the desired lock, make all measurements and carefully work with the tool. After reading the detailed guide below, it will be quite simple to do this.

Things to Consider

Having decided to take up the craft, you first need to check if it is possible to put a lock into your door. For this, the width of the vertical bar is measured. If it is more than 40 mm, be calm and get to work.

Further, the material from which the door is made is studied. Each has its own characteristics. For example, in wooden door you can embed the lock anywhere, and into the MDF door - strictly at the level of 1 m from the floor. It is there that the wooden partition is located.

It is worth choosing a castle based on personal tastes. Devices with a knob are very popular. But you can buy a lock separately, and separately - a handle. All kinds of design, each buyer will find his own model. Make sure you need just such a mechanism, specify how it closes.

Required tools

Do-it-yourself installation of locks in interior doors is impossible without the use of a special tool. So, for this work you will need:

Stages of work

The steps for installing a lock in an interior door can be roughly divided into 5 stages:

1. Measurements and markings.
2. Drilling the required holes.
3. Installation of the latch.
4. Fastening the structure.

Measurements and markings

The purchased lock must be attached to the intended installation site, circle the outline with a pencil. The optimum height is 965 mm. from the floor. But if you have a wooden door, you can choose any height, the main thing is that you and your family members feel comfortable.

Using a marking square, you need to draw lines at the end of the door. To cut the lock straight, it is necessary to connect the centers of the marking with a line. The resulting vertical line will serve as the basis for the markup. From it, in both directions, you should step back at a distance equal to half the width and make marks. It is necessary to make notches along the perimeter of the resulting rectangle.

Drilling the required holes

The holes are drilled with a drill. For each, a crown of the required diameter is selected, taking into account the size of the mechanism. To ensure that the lock fits securely into the hole, carefully select the diameter of the crown. For a handle, you don't need to drill a through hole right away. It is best to stop working on one side as soon as the drill appears on the other. Go to the back side of the door and continue working, otherwise, the structure of the wood may be damaged. Or drill down to the middle of each side.

To make a hole for the lock mechanism, it is necessary to position the drill exactly in the center of the marking of the end part and drill a through hole.

And then, insert the latch and circle the visible part around the perimeter. This is necessary in order to cut a recess in which the lock will "sink". This can be done with a chisel. The main thing is not to rush, but to coordinate every movement.

Installing the latch

When all the preparatory work is done, you can safely put the latch in the opening. Having fixed its exact position, you need to make markings for the screws for fastening. Now the lock is pulled out again and holes are made with a drill for tightening the screws. The latch is inserted again and securely fixed with self-tapping screws.

To install the knob, it is necessary to fix the rod, close the door and mark the exact location of the locking tongue on the jamb. Measure it with a ruler and transfer the measurements to the door jamb. Drill a hole to the desired depth.

Despite the widest range of doors, almost all of them are sold without door hinges and locks. We will tell you how to embed a lock into an interior door from DIY MDF... In our case, the lever handles with a lock and a latch lock were cut.

To drive a lock into a door, you will need the following materials:

The work begins with the fact that the markings are made on the door.

Marking the position of the lock on the interior door

The distance from the floor to the doorknob will be about a meter. A lock is applied to the door from the outside and the place where the lock mechanism will be installed is marked - there will be appropriate groove. Along its borders, 2 horizontal lines are marked with a pencil and one axial between horizontal... Also mark the groove width. This value is equal to the thickness of the locking mechanism.

The next step is to sample the hole for the lock.

The drawn rectangle is removed using a hand router or chisel. You can also take advantage of drill.
Having tried on the lock, the hole must be brought to the required size so that the groove matches the size of the lock.

The next step is to install the lock on the door and fix it.

Insert the lock, check the verticality of its position and mark the places for the self-tapping screws on which the front plate will be attached. Carefully drill the required holes and tighten the self-tapping screws. Make sure the lock is secure and does not wobble.

Then flush the lock faceplate with the door edge. With a knife, you need to make an incision along the line of the bar, so that a trace remains from it. After that, we remove the self-tapping screws, then the lock and select the canvas with a chisel along this track to the depth of the plank. At the same time, fitting the lock, keeping an eye on the position of the level of the bar relative to the canvas - it should not go deep into the canvas, but it should not protrude either.

By the way, you can learn not only how to insert a lock into an interior door with your own hands, but also how and how to hang it correctly. All these points are very important for the door to open and close well.

Installing the handles and latch retainer

We mark the holes for the sockets of the handles and the latch retainer using an awl.

After that, it is necessary to drill through holes in the door with a No. 5 drill. We begin to drill first from one side, and then from the other, avoiding the formation of chips. Then, drill holes with a larger diameter drill. The drilled holes must be cleaned of sawdust.

Then you need to insert the lock into the door and fix the front plate with self-tapping screws. Then install the handles and clamps and fix them with self-tapping screws.


Next, screw the fastening rosettes of the handle with self-tapping screws.


And install a decorative strip.


According to the same scheme, is established and a latch handle.

Then we check how the mechanism works.

And the last step:

Mounting a striker on the door frame

To the place of the tie-in the strip into which the tongue of the lock will go, stick tape on the door. We close the door and mark the position of the tongue with a pencil. We open the door and, in accordance with the marks, mark the position of the striker.

Using a drill and a chisel, we select the material according to the marked dimensions of the strip.


Then the bar is inserted, lightly fixed with self-tapping screws and the adjustment is made so that the closed door is tightly fixed, with a tongue in the counter bar. For this, the bar is removed, adjusted and put in place. Then the screws are finally tightened.

Now that you know how to cut a lock into an interior door, you can do this work with your own hands, and not invite craftsmen who will have to pay for this work.

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Inserting a lock into an interior door is not a difficult task, which requires training in special courses. We will tell you everything in detail.

It is enough to have the basic skills of carpentry work at home and a baggage of basic knowledge about the lock insert.

Choosing a castle

The inset begins with the acquisition of a lock, which is to be installed in the canvas of the existing door. When choosing, the owner must determine which model will most suit the purpose and design of the room. There are models in which the lock and handles require separate installation. There are also latches and latches with latches, which are intended for bathrooms (the flag indicates whether the room is occupied).

Interior door structure

The “keyed” side of the door leaf must be marked at the factory with a special stamp with a key image.

Instruments

The insert of the lock will require the use of a set of tools: a hammer, a 16 mm chisel (a set of chisels is possible), a drill or a cordless screwdriver with a chuck, a D4 mm drill, a D 20 mm pen drill (a set of drills), if a latch lock is purchased, it is most convenient to use a crown D 50 mm for sampling for handle springs.

Installing a lock in an interior door

It is more convenient to insert a cut-in when the blade is already mounted - it is easier to mark the location of the striker, to drill at the required angle. So we do, and then step by step:

When the lock is inserted, the handles are put on the swivel rod, we begin to secure the lock. It is necessary to drill holes for the screws and tighten them carefully so as not to distort the lock. The fastening of the handle is determined by the lock manufacturer, most often it is a small bolt that pulls the handle to the square bar.

Installation of a latch lock in an interior door

The latch lock is no more difficult to install than others.

By turning the knobs, we check the working order, if it sticks, we check the freedom of the springs, it is possible that the selection for the springs of the knobs is not chosen enough depth.

Fastening decorative strips of the lock

Before installing the handles in some lock designs, it is required to install decorative overlays separately under the handles and under the keyhole. The cover plates are attached with decorative screws that match the color of the cover plates. Sometimes, instead of screws, studs are used, passing through the door leaf and the lock mechanism.

When installing such a structure, special care will be required, you need to drill holes of a certain diameter, hold the nut during installation and at the same time screw in the stud. The decorative linings of the cylindrical lock fit into special stops and are fixed on them.

Installing a strike plate on the box

After installing the lock mechanism in the interior door, it is necessary to install a counter metal strip on the box, which is sometimes called an overlay.

• When closing the door, mark the height of the lock tongue on the door frame.
• With a drill or chisel, a tree is selected so that the tongue or latch freely goes into the hole and keeps the doors closed.
• Then a striker is placed on the hole and a sample is marked for its recess in the door frame. It is not necessary to deepen the bar too much or install it with a ledge, it will look sloppy.
• The cover is fixed with screws, it is advisable to putty the gaps with special sealants.

When it is necessary to embed a lock into a door made of MDF panels, you need to be especially careful not to shift the height of the lock inset, because the wooden beam is located in a strictly defined place - at a height of 95 mm from the bottom of the canvas.

For work, the canvas is placed on its side, with the key side up and securely fixed. The layout of the castle begins with determining the center of its placement. With the help of a square, the boundary lines are marked at the end of the canvas. Masking tape will help you keep the boundaries more accurate.

The hole for the lock mechanism is selected with a cutter that provides a recess (immersion) of 10 cm. The hole extends across the entire width of the lock without crossing the boundaries. For sampling under the lock bar, you will need another cutter, because it is only necessary to deepen by 3-4 mm.

The counter bar is installed in the same way as described earlier, using a chisel, a drill with a drill.

With any installation method, you need to understand that you should finally fix the lock only when you make sure that it is working properly! It happens that the lock has to be removed and the hole adjusted several times. You should not try to hammer in the lock.

We hope your new lock will work smoothly and smoothly!

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