Modern organizers contain a bunch of all kinds of little things, tools, fixtures and materials. For hundreds of years, women all over the world have been various types needlework. Even then, the girls needed somewhere to store tools, devices used in creative activities. So the first organizer for needlework appeared. With their own hands then they made a lot of things, including organizers. Even if it was called then differently, its essence was the same as in our time.
creative ideas
There are always a lot of pockets in the organizer, often transparent, in which you can see where everything is. The form can be any. It all depends on your imagination and your needs.
If you need to somehow store floss threads, you can wind them on the same clothespins, pencils or wooden sticks, collect them in a glass. To store knitting needles, hooks, scissors, it is convenient to use jars, mugs, glasses, after sheathing them with fabric, providing additional pockets on the outside.
To create a beautiful and convenient organizer, it is not necessary to be able to sew, you can knit a box from threads or glue a box for small things from dense materials and cardboard.
Master class: do-it-yourself wall organizer with pockets
It's not difficult at all. To make this DIY craft organizer, you will need:
- The main fabric is 55 cm wide, the length is as you wish.
- Lining fabric - the same size.
- Fabric for pockets - denim or other dense.
- Fabric for appliqués and organizer decorations - optional.
- Threads for sewing.
- Sewing machine.
- Pencil or remnant for cutting parts.
- Eyelets, clothes hanger or wooden beam - depending on how you will attach the organizer to the wall.
Before you get started, think about how many pockets and what sizes you will need to store your things.
Operating procedure:
- Cut pockets to the size you need to store your tool. Do not forget to add seam allowances to the blanks.
- Arrange the pockets on the main fabric and outline their location in the finished product.
- Measure the required size by adding allowances for the seams on the bottom and sides, as well as for fastening on top.
- Measure exactly the same piece of fabric from the lining material.
- Finish the edges of the pockets with a zigzag stitch, or simply fold and hem the edges to keep the fabric from fraying.
- On organizers, you can often see pockets with pleats on the sides. To do so or not is up to you. If there is a fold, then the blank of the pockets should not be rectangular, but in the form of a trapezoid, expanding upwards.
- Sew the pockets to the main piece.
- Sew the lining on the sides and bottom to our organizer.
- Sew a clothes hanger, a wooden beam or install eyelets on top of the product.
- Attach the organizer to the wall. Decorate as you wish.
Master class: matchbox organizer box
Let's learn how to make boxes-organizers for needlework. With our own hands we will make a box of matchboxes. This box can be used to store sewing needles, buttons and other small items.
We will need:
- Scrapbooking paper.
- PVA glue.
- Ruler.
- Beads for handles.
- Scissors.
- Hot glue gun.
- Decorative flowers, berries, twigs
- Match boxes.
Operating procedure:
1. We remove matches from the boxes. Set aside the insides of the boxes.
2. Glue their outer parts together. We choose the number of boxes depending on the size of the future organizer. Under pressure, the glue dries faster, so figure out in advance how to press the glued parts of the box.
3. You can make one row of boxes or several. Depending on the location of the boxes and the number of boxes, we can create a unique handicraft organizer. The photo below shows simple caskets with three drawers.
4. On scrapbooking paper, draw rectangles with the dimensions of the top and sides of the box. Cut out the blanks. Blanks can be decorated with appliqué as desired.
5. For pasting the outside of the boxes, we need rectangles measuring 1 x 3.5 cm.
6. Cover the box and drawers with decorative paper.
7. Using a thread and a needle, sew on a bead - this will be a handle.
8. Insert the boxes into the box.
9. Decorate the finished organizer box with decorative flowers and berries as you wish.
10. The matchbox organizer box is ready.
Conclusion
The variety of organizers never ceases to amaze us. These are pockets for beads, and a cosmetic bag with knitting needles and hooks, and a needle book, and an organizer bag for needlework. Making such accessories with your own hands is not only cheaper, but also more pleasant. So the thing will turn out to be unique, reflecting the personality of its mistress. Armed with imagination and patience, any novice craftswoman can make an organizer for storing needlework for herself.
Hello everyone) You have no idea how much I love order, and how it interferes with my life. I tried to ignore the little things, but I can't help myself. I never accumulate more than one plate of dishes in the sink, I can’t calmly brush my teeth if the bath doesn’t shine like a copper basin) A perfectionist, damn it, on my own head. Today I will sew useful thing for people like me, and not only) I found such an organizer in the open spaces of Aliexpress, and thought, why not sew the same one. It can be used not only for sewing tools, similar I did for a crib. It is convenient when all things are at hand, no shelves or drawers are needed.
It is not necessary to specifically buy material for tailoring the organizer. See if you still have pieces and scraps of fabric that are lying around.
In order to sew an organizer for needlework with my own hands, I needed:
- fabric teak pillowcase 70 cm. You can take any dense fabric - gabardine, cotton, calico.
- quilted synthetic winterizer 45 cm.
- oblique inlay - 2 m.
- rep tape - 30 cm.
- cord - 50 cm.
- wooden stick, branch - 34 cm.
- threads in color
- tailor's tools: scissors, pins, measuring tape, water-based marker, ruler, sewing needle
MK sew an organizer for needlework with your own hands step by step
- I cut out two rectangles from the pillowcase teak with dimensions
2. With exactly the same dimensions, I cut out one rectangle from a quilted padding polyester. It will serve as a substrate, and will give a rigid shape to the base of the organizer.
3. Putting a synthetic winterizer between the pillowcase teak. Layers: teak - synthetic winterizer - teak.
4. I fasten all three fabrics together with pins. Now you need to stitch them. I draw with a marker (pencil) a pattern for quilting.
5. I sew on a typewriter along the lines. Be sure to back-tack at the beginning and end of the lines so that the line does not bloom later.
6. I take a slanting inlay, I smooth one of its edges with an iron.
8. Go around the corners, rounding the bias a little
9. I sew the edges of the oblique inlay with an overlap.
10. Trim excess fabric
11. I bend the oblique inlay to the front side. I sew the free edge of the inlay to the base of the organizer with hand running stitches.
12. I sew a slanting inlay. Notice how I laid the fabric in relation to the foot of the machine. The line should run 1 mm. from the edge of the bias tape.
13. I cut out two pockets - a rectangle with sides 32 * 13 cm. I sheathe the upper edges with an oblique trim. I overcast the remaining open sections with an overlock (zigzag).
14. I fold the edges of the pockets 1 cm inward. I sew on a machine.
15. I measure 5.5 cm from the bottom of the organizer base and draw a line with a marker across
16. I apply the bottom pocket to the drawn line, as shown in the photo. I make a fold on both sides.
17. I sew the bottom pocket on a typewriter, stepping back from the edge to the width of the foot.
18. I measure from the top of the base 19 cm. I draw a line with a marker. I sew the top pocket on a typewriter along this line.
19. Turn over the details of the pockets face up. I attach the details of the pockets to the base of the organizer on the sides over the existing line.
20. I got three pockets on the top and two on the bottom. You can do the same. And you can come up with your own version.
21. I cut 3 pieces of rep tape. I burn the ends with matches so that they do not bloom.
22. I pin pieces of tape to the base, fasten with pins.
23. I sew ribbons on a typewriter on the front side.
24. I insert a wooden pipe into the holes obtained. This is all that I have at hand for now, a pipe from Bethlehem came in handy) I tie a cord to the pipe. Ready!
It was not difficult to sew an organizer for needlework with Aliexpress with your own hands. For a beginner, this creative process will be interesting, because here you can give free rein to your imagination. And the thing is very useful, in the same way you can sew an organizer for shoes for the closet; can be used for masks, gels, shampoos and other things in the bathroom or on the dressing table.
In our review - a lot of ideas plus three detailed master classes.
Textile organizer with pockets
Based on the step-by-step tutorial on making the simplest basic model of a wall organizer, you can make any organizer - with more or less compartments, a wider or longer organizer, a water-resistant bathroom organizer.
You will need:
- A large piece of fabric for a double-sided organizer base;
- Smaller cuts - for pockets;
- Thin durable plastic material to strengthen the base and pockets (if you wish, you can use dublerin by gluing it to the fabric with an iron);
- Ribbon or ready-made bias binding of sufficient length to process pockets and the base of the organizer;
- Eyelets
Step 1
First, decide on the size of the organizer and pockets. For example, in this case, we start from the size of a standard A4 sheet - you can use it as a template. Cut plastic into rectangles of the appropriate size, and from fabric - pieces twice as large, not forgetting a few centimeters for the volume of each pocket and good seam allowances.Step 2
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Fold each pocket piece in half inside out, insert a piece of plastic inside and topstitch.
Step 3
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Iron the fabric on the sides inward with an “accordion” so that allowances remain on the side.
Step 4
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Stitch the folds of the edge of the pocket. So process each of the pockets.
Step 5
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Now let's get to work on the basic organizer. Place the plastic part between the layers of the double fabric part.
Step 6
photo blog.spoonflower.com
Attach the details of the pockets to the base and pin them with pins.
Step 7
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Sew the pockets to the base.
Step 8
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Using a round object as a template, round off the corners of the base.
Step 9
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Work the organizer in a circle with bias tape or tape.
Step 10
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Mark the location of the eyelets and install them. Ready.
Variants of textile organizers with pockets
photo: apartmenttherapy.com
photo: handmadepride.tumblr.com
photo: imperfecthomemaking.com
photo: livesimplybiannie.com
A similar organizer can be adapted for a bed.
photo: static1.squarespace.com
do it yourself
Organizer "shoulders" in the closet
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
If your closet lacks compartments with shelves, you can add them by sewing a similar organizer. It will come in handy in the bathroom, for example, for towels, and in the nursery - for toys, and in the hallway - for hats and scarves.
You will need:
- The same amount of fabric for the outer and inner sides (take a dense, strong fabric);
- A piece of Velcro tape (Velcro) 10+ cm long;
- Thick cardboard or plastic to strengthen the organizer;
- Hanger
Step 1
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Cut out the fabric and cardboard according to the diagram in the picture (the number is the number of parts).
12 parts 23x23 cm (lining fabric);
2 parts 23x32 cm (main fabric);
2 parts 20x23 cm (main fabric);
2 parts 32x69 cm (main fabric).
Remember to add 0.5 cm allowances.
Step 2
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Sew, as shown in the picture, the details of 20x23 cm. Turn it inside out, iron it, sew on the Velcro.
Step 3
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Mark the middle of this part and sew with two lines to the middle of one of the parts of the main fabric 23x32 cm.
Step 4
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Connect this piece to one of the lining pieces. Sew the details as shown in the photo. Insert cardboard between the shelves.
Step 5
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Lay out the finished wrong side of the organizer on the table and baste, and then attach the details from the outer fabric 32x69 cm. On one side, leave a piece for eversion unstitched.
Step 6
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
Turn it right side out and sew up the open section.
Step 7
photo: blog.spoonflower.com
It remains to attach the hanger with Velcro.
do it yourself
Wardrobe organizer options
photo: ebootcamp.org
photo: ebootcamp.org
photo: diyjoy.com
Closet storage options with homemade organizers
Storing shoes and bags:
photo: s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com
Shoe storage plus a variant of the "shelves" organizer, supplemented by boxes:
photo: simplesdecoracao.com
Bag storage:
photo: cheapbuynsave.com
Shoe storage:
photo: casatemperada.blogspot.com
Homemade covers for clothes:
photo: amazinginterior-design.com
Bag Organizer
Such an organizer will help, on the one hand, make a large bag with no pockets more convenient, and on the other hand, it will facilitate the transfer of everything you need from one bag to another. It is very convenient for those who pick up a new handbag for each outfit.This organizer is sewn from thin felt. We recommend this particular material: it holds its shape well and does not require edge processing.
You will need felt, sewing machine, thread, scissors.
To sew the organizer, follow the instructions in the video:
Small organizer options:
photo: 1.bp.blogspot.com
photo: coupons.com
photo: craftbnb.com
photo: pdc2011.org
TOTAL
This master class will teach you how to quickly and cost-effectively make an organizer for sewing supplies. Even for beginners, this project will be very easy. V this project used a ready-made quilted fabric, you can prepare a quilted fabric yourself.
What you need to sew a sewing organizer:
- 92 cm pre-quilted fabric(for the base and for pockets). You can make your own quilted fabric, in this project we used a ready-made one.
- Bias binding for processing the edge of the pocket and the edges of the organizer itself(size depends on the size of your car)
Measure the length of your car. This machine is approximately 46 cm long, and we add 2.5 cm just in case so that the width of the future organizer is sufficient.
Now sit down at your machine where you usually sew. Use a measuring tape to measure from the back of the machine to your knees. This way you will determine where the base of the pockets will be so that they don't get in the way when they hang off the table. Mark where the bottom of the pockets will be with tape or something.
This is an example of a ready-made pre-quilted fabric that you can find in large fabric stores.
Fold your fabric by matching the edge with the folded edge at the base. Trim the edge so you can cut straight later.
Now use a cutting mat or ruler to measure the length of fabric you need and cut carefully.
Turn the fabric over and cut off the hem. Now unfold the fabric.
Cut the width you need. You should get a square, the project turned out to be a square with a side of about 48 cm.
Your base for the organizer is ready.
Determine how high your pockets will be without annoying and getting in the way. In the project, they are approximately 10 cm high, and add another 1.5 cm to secure.
Don't make them too deep or you'll have a hard time getting your tools out later!
From the remnants of the fabric, open a pocket, the height that you marked and the width as the base.
This is what future pockets will look like. You can use the reverse side.
Stitch the edge of the pocket.
Trim the edges carefully when you're done.
Determine the number of organizer pockets.
Now attach your pocket to the base and determine what size you want the individual pockets to be and what you want to store there.
Mark the lines of the pockets with chalk using a ruler to keep the lines straight.
Option 1.
Sewing machine cover
Cover for the sewing machine, made to order. Nothing unusual - the same shape, the same pocket on the side
The letter "H" is the first letter of the customer's name. The idea with the embroidered letter is entirely mine. It was necessary to somehow decorate the cover - so I suggested this option to the customer. At the same time, I finally used the book by Vanessa Ouache "La fabrique poétique de Vanessa".
The cover is made of floral cotton and striped fabric from grandmother's stocks, inside is lined with checkered fabric. Double sealed. Of the decorations - natural lace and wooden decor.
During cutting, I managed to make a mistake in the calculations, so I had to add striped fabric on the back of the cover. So, I think it turned out even more interesting.
The dimensions of the cover are 41 * 28 * 19 cm. As in the previous case, I made a pocket in one of the sides. I sealed it with dublerin, so the cover keeps its shape well - in all the photos it stands on its own without support.
Option 2.
Sewing machine cover
Most recently, I became the owner of a new sewing machine, but not because the previous one had fallen into disrepair, but simply because I wanted a more modern machine with advanced features. Well, my mother agreed to take my previous car.
Once again, assembling the sewing machine after working on it and stuffing the wires with the pedal under the factory soft polyethylene cover, I suddenly remembered how not so long ago Inna (Milady Azazel) showed the bag for the pedal and the wires that she sewed for her sewing machine.
I had a lot of fabrics suitable for the autumn theme (and for some reason I wanted to make the set autumnal), but all of them stubbornly refused to combine with each other. After painful reflections, she settled on checkered linen, and for the lining she chose fabric with roses.
chose the design from the book “Jahreszeiten. Herbst und Winter” by Christiane Dahlbeck (these cute animals have been haunting me since last year), and the pouch was decorated with an appliqué in the form of acorns.
The size of the cover for the typewriter is 38*30*18 cm, the size of the bag is 18*23 cm. The cover has a pocket on the left side. I made it with the hope that a bag with a pedal and wires would fit there, but the pocket turned out to be small, so I'll have to find another purpose for it.
Option 3.
Set of needlewoman for needlework supplies
I have created such a set for the current process or for storing handicraft supplies (this is as the hostess wishes).
The organizer bag on the outside has three pockets: two regular and one with small compartments (for example, for knitting needles / hooks or pens / pencils). Decorated with a tag and a flower brooch on a pin, which, if desired, can be moved to another place or simply removed. Materials: coarse calico, sintepon. The dimensions of the handbag are 19*23*18 cm.
To the purse in the kit I decided to sew a bag for various little things, so that nothing was lost. Well, of course, I wanted to embroider something! Embroidered design "Un air de printemps" by Tralala, embroidered on Britney Lugana 28ct Antique white, DMC threads (I chose the colors myself for the main fabric). Materials: coarse calico, natural lace, satin ribbon for ties, wooden beads, a button for decoration. The dimensions of the bag are 10.5 * 18 * 4 cm. I sewed on this MK, before turning the bag I stitched the corners for volume.
Option 4.
V pink color or Dolce Vita
What happens if you combine the love of needlework, sweets and peas together? .. For example, I got an organizer for needlework supplies.
Option 5.
Organizer. Retro.
This is not the first time I have noticed that if I did not manage to immediately show my new job, then it becomes more and more difficult to do this every day. So it was with this needlework organizer. And now I’m looking at the photos of this organizer and I don’t even know what to write about ... But until recently I liked it so much !! Although it turned out a little different than it was originally intended ... It was supposed to be gentle and romantic, mostly blue and just a little bit red, but in the end it turned out so much red that it already ripples in the eyes. And it is because of the abundance of white peas on a red background that the organizer got the name "Retro".
When I was choosing a motif for embroidery, my attention was drawn to a girl in a red dress with white polka dots. After all, I had exactly the same dress with the same white collar as a child. My dress also had a white frill around the edge, but that's not that important, is it? Designed by Veronique Enginger, embroidery chart from Creation Point de Croix #18 (March-April 2012). I did not embroider the entire proposed motif, but only half of it, and, based on the shade of the blue fabric, I replaced the blue colors of the threads with blue ones.
The size of the organizer is 22 cm in diameter, 3 cm thick. It is sealed with two layers of adhesive bulk interlining, closed with a zipper. Inside there are five pockets of different sizes, two of which are closed with a flap with a button. On the back of the organizer is another zippered pocket.
In the kit for the organizer, I sewed a small needle case-pumpkin and sheathed a tape measure with a fabric. They are always at hand, as they are in their place thanks to the buttons located on the inside of the organizer and on the back of the needle bar and tape measure. Embroidery scheme for roulette decoration from the book "Agenda 2011 Latelier de la brodeuse au point de croix".
I made this organizer to order. And despite on my bust with red no matter what, the customer accepted him as he is.
Option 6.
Case for knitting needles and hooks / Knitting Needle Case
Case for knitting needles and hooks "Brown" / Knitting Needle Case
They still turn out different every time! 100% repetitions even with the same set of fabrics have not yet been.
Option 7.
Case for knitting needles and hooks "Green" / Knitting Needle Case
I seal the covers with Vlieseline H 640, I duplicate every detail with adhesive, plus a stitch, due to this they are so nicely plump! Solid tactile pleasure! :)) You can just meditate opening them ... oh-oh-ommm
Option 8.
Case for hooks "August" / Knitting Needle Case "
Option 9.
Cover for sewing machine
You have purchased a sewing machine. Perhaps it is equipped with a plastic case, perhaps not. But in any case, I would advise you to sew a fabric cover for your car:
- The plastic cover is electrified and collects a lot of dust.
- Gets dirty quickly
- It is good only as a protective device against inquisitive juvenile "vandals"
- A fabric cover not only protects your car from dust, but can also be a beautiful and personalized piece.
cutting
- First you need to measure the car.
- To the received measurements, you need to make an increase so that the cover can be easily put on the car (2 cm each), and on the seam reserves (1 cm)
- Make patterns (side part - 2 parts and central part - 1 part)
- Cut out.
Assembly
1. The cover is a three-layer product:
- Top
- pad
- Lining
The top can be done in different ways: you can decorate with an appliqué, you can make the top in a patchwork technique (this is done before stitching), you can simply quilt, etc.
As a gasket, you can use a synthetic winterizer or non-woven cushioning material used in furniture production. The padding after stitching will give the case rigidity.
It is better to use cotton fabric as a lining.
2. The stitch will not only stiffen the product, but also enrich the texture of the fabric and decorate the product. Before quilting the details of the cover, it is necessary to fasten all layers of the “sandwich” with fixing stitches. Locking stitches will prevent layers of materials from moving relative to each other during stitching.
Fixing stitches are sewn with a “forward needle” seam with long stitches - 2-3 cm from the center to the edges with an interval of about 10 cm. Since our product is directly related to the sewing machine, I suggest stitching all the details with the lines available in the arsenal of your sewing machine. This is the easiest option and it is within the power of a novice craftswoman. The stitch also starts from the center, moving towards the edges of the part, this will prevent the product from contracting.
3. After stitching, check the dimensions of the parts using a pattern, cut the edges evenly, leaving a seam margin of 5-8mm + 1-1.5cm for “freedom” (the cover should be somewhat larger than the sewing machine).
- Pin the central part of the cover with the side parts with tailor's pins (Thus, you will also control the size - the length of the central part). Adjust the part size if necessary.
- Split the pieces and hem the short sides of the center section and the undersides of the sides of the cover.
- Baste the central part of the cover with the side
- Trim the side seams. As a edging, you can use either an oblique strip of fabric (do not forget to check the width of the oblique facing!) Or a ready-made edging tape (not a ready-made oblique inlay! - it is narrow).
Your cover is ready! - a perfect gift for your assistant.
PS. If your sewing machine is equipped with a “top feed”, or you have purchased an additional foot with a top feed function, be sure to use them when quilting. Do not forget about the foot with a guide ruler when edging the cover. These devices will help you do this job better.
Good luck to everyone who decides on this "labor feat", Tamara Afanasyevna
Here are a couple more samples
Option 10.
Cover with a lining for the sewing machine
It has long been in my mind to sew a cover for a sewing machine, the one that came with it during the sale was some kind of cellophane and was worn out all over (not without the help of a cat, of course). And then I chose fabric for my bag, and eventually bought fabric for a case. And what kind of business, the machine is constantly in sight and such a terrible skinned, offended yet =)
Here it is, my joy =)
I didn’t learn to sew anywhere and I admit that somewhere I could do something wrong or in the wrong order, or maybe everything in general. But! It was sewn so quickly and simply that I did not expect and even surprised myself.
So: A cover with a lining, sealed with adhesive thick interlining (or a thin padding polyester ... I can’t understand what it is). The outer fabric is American cotton, the inner is also cotton, but not American, but domestic.
We measure our machine (length, height and width) I have it 38cm. 31cm and 18 cm respectively. On the sides, I added 1 cm. so that the cover is not stuck in the machine, but lies a little loose. We will need one part of the central part (in the figure under the number 1) and 2 parts of the side parts (in the figure under the number 2). Total 3 details: 1 central and 2 identical sides. The pattern is ready!
We cut out 3 parts from the main fabric, 3 parts from the lining fabric and 3 parts from the sealant. We cut out the outer and lining fabric with allowances, I make 7mm, but then someone is used to it.
Sealant, if it is adhesive , cut without allowance, since it only thickens the seams and complicates the eversion of the part.
We will put the seal aside for now, since we will glue the main fabric after we make a hole for the handle.
So, our parts are cut out, the seal is also cut out, but set aside. The fabric with clouds is my lining, with pictures is the main one.
3. We start with the inner case. (I decided to immediately train on it, because it was scary to take it right away and make it from the main fabric. Yes, and the pattern could be corrected without damage and generally alter it if anything, I have another 2 meters of fabric with clouds, and the main one is very close It was.)
We lay the central part on the typewriter and mark the location of the handle with pins
It turns out such a rectangle, you can lightly draw it on the fabric.
We cut out the part from the fabric, a little more than our rectangle and chop it and the main fabric with the right sides to each other.
We cut out the rectangle, make notches in the corners, so that it looks neat after turning out.
turn inside out
and iron out
It turned out such a neat hole for the handle.
We do the same for the central part of the main fabric, we should get exactly the same hole on the main fabric.
I still had to prepare the main fabric a little, since initially it was just a panel of elements.
I had to cut it, having previously measured it 77 times, and sew it a little differently so that it matches the idea
here I left only the necessary details, turned one of the central pictures so that it was not upside down in the product and stitched the side parts
So, we do the procedure with the valve for the main fabric.
We apply it to the typewriter (you can not apply it, but put a lining on the main part, because there is already a ready-made hole and circle it), mark the cutout, apply a rectangle of fabric, sew, twist, iron
and try on:
We make a pocket on one of the side parts
In the photo there are 2 details of one side, in my case the right one, where I conceived a pocket.
The fabric with clouds is the inner parts of the pocket, I took it from the lack of the main fabric =)
I think it's clear from the pictures
Stitched, ironed
And voila, we have a pocket (I stuffed scissors there for clarity) so far, though it’s not fixed in any way.
Cloth with clouds inside the pocket
and here are both side parts from the main fabric. Here is the pocket where the mouse and the bird are
Now you can glue the main fabric with a sealant. Apply and iron.
I laid out the main fabric, on top of the seal with glue down, on top of a thin diaper and ironed at the maximum.
Here is my seal
in place of the valve, I cut out the seal and tucked it under the fabric, this is important, because otherwise, a piece of fabric around the hole will unsightly excite.
Here I was so carried away that somehow this moment was not captured in the photo. But I don't think there are any issues.
As a result, our outer and inner covers look like this.
We put both covers with the wrong sides into each other and sew them together along the contour of the cut for the handle.
Now they can't get away from each other =)
Now only the bottom of the cover remains, I wrapped it inside and carefully hemmed it with a hidden seam, it turned out such a neat bottom
Option 11.
Case from old jeans for a sewing machine
To do this, we need old jeans, a padding lining, small pieces of colored fabric for lining the pocket and an embroidered canvas. 
First you need to build the details of the pattern as in Figure 1. It is better to start building from the sidewalls (details 8,9,10,11). To do this, you need to measure the height of the sewing machine h, the width along the bottom x1 and the width at the level of the middle of the flywheel of the sewing machine x2. Don't forget protruding parts. They also need to be taken into account. And add 0.5 cm to freedom on each side.
First, build a simple rectangle with parameters h and x1. Find the middle of the segment x1 and draw a dotted line dividing the rectangle into two halves. Then, along this line from top to bottom, measure a segment equal to the height from the middle of the flywheel to the very top of the machine, taking into account the protruding parts h1. After that, use a compass to construct a circle with a radius equal to x2/2. Connect the lower points of the rectangle with the circle and adjust the upper half of the circle to the height of the rectangle by hand.
After the part is built, measure the length of the sidewall contour with a centimeter, excluding the bottom. This will be the length of part 1 (d).
Now let's start building part 1. Everything is simple here. The length of the sidewall d and the length of the sewing machine y (do not forget about 0.5 cm for freedom) The first part is cut out from the padding polyester. After that, determine the middle of the rectangle and build a hole for the handle of the sewing machine, not forgetting the allowances for freedom. 
Next, we make a pattern for the instruction pocket. Here, too, the whole construction consists of rectangles, for the construction of which you only need to decide on the depth of the pocket d1. Everything else is calculated using the formulas below. 
Now the details can be transferred to the fabric. It turned out that I cut the sidewalls from one leg, and the rest of the details from the other. Beforehand, I ripped the jeans along the side inner seam, and laid the details so that the outer seam looked harmonious. I had enough pants to the knee. Now let's start assembling. First, we fold the details of the sidewalls from the synthetic winterizer and from the jeans inside out and sew in a zigzag along the edge. After that, we proceed to assemble the outer part of the pocket. We attach details 3,4,5 to each other, where the embroidery is in the middle. To the resulting part we attach on top part 6 of cotton fabric. After that, iron the seam, fold it in half and make a decorative-reinforcing stitch. Attach part 7 of cotton fabric to part 2 from below. Don't forget to iron the seam. We apply part 1 of the synthetic winterizer to the resulting part and attach them to each other along the lines of the rectangular hole for the handle marked in the center. Iron, turn out, iron again and make a decorative stitch. And you can still stitch the sidewalls so that the parts do not crawl. Now you need to sew a kraman to the resulting part, attaching it with a side of cotton fabric and stitching on the side and bottom. I'm not too lazy to make extra lines to make it stronger. And after that, I zigzag along the edge. Optionally, a denim patch pocket can be attached to the back. 
The most difficult process of connecting the side parts to the main one remained. It's almost like sewing on sleeves. Do not be lazy to first bait, turn out and see how it turns out and only then attach. At the very end, I wrapped the edges along the bottom inward and stitched. Everything - your clothes for the typewriter are ready.
So, everything you need has been prepared - for business!
1. Take the lining fabric and cut out two rectangles that match the size of the machine. First of all, you should, of course, measure your sewing machine.
2. Stitch two rectangles. You should end up with a bag that looks like a pillowcase. Put it on your car.
3. The upper corners interfere with us - pin it with pins, remove the cover, stitch and cut off the excess.
4. Repeat all the same with the outside of the cover: cut out, stitch the bag, measure the unnecessary corners and get rid of them.
5. Now turn the inner side inside out and put it inside the outer part of the cover.
6. It's time to sew them, hiding the seams inside. You can sew lace, braid, decorative thread for edging along the edge.
You can additionally make a groove for an elastic band at the bottom of the cover, with the help of which the cover will be pulled together, additionally protecting the sewing machine from dust and various kinds of dirt. But for this it is necessary to initially cut the cover with a small margin at the bottom.
A stylish cover for a sewing machine is ready!
