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Creating a strong and reliable foundation for such an outbuilding as baths is an urgent issue, since the majority have country houses. In addition, it is precisely such a vacation, away from the bustle of the city, that many citizens like. How to make a foundation for such a building will be discussed below.

The choice of the foundation for the bath

The classic version of the bath includes a dressing room and a washing room, but there can be more rooms at will and possibilities. The choice of base for the bath partly depends on the washing room, where water is constantly consumed, which runs directly under the floor.

Floors on the ground inside a shallow tape suggest the creation of a certain slope to drain water. A septic tank is also dug in, which collects the used water. If the foundation is hinged, then a grillage-slab is poured directly under the washing room or a sheet of metal is mounted, which acts as a drain for the sewage system.

Many owners of country houses are not limited to only one steam room, they additionally make a pool in such an outbuilding. For such purposes, it is best to fill in a monolithic slab.

If there is a pond or any other body of water on the territory of a country house, then a bathhouse can be built next to it. For this, a columnar type of foundation (piles) is ideal. On a completely flat and solid ground, you can lay down a bathhouse on a lightweight version of the foundation, for example, made of bricks.

The bath is a durable building that requires a reliable and strong foundation. This is the tape "sole".

Allocate its varieties:

• Brick tape. It is made up of bricks. Masonry is a complex process, as it must be done carefully and as accurately as possible.
• Team tape. It is made of reinforced concrete blocks, which are laid around the perimeter of the future building. Greater precision is also needed.
• Monolithic reinforced concrete tape. This is a strip foundation with a frame inside. There are two bookmark options that differ in depth: shallowly recessed and recessed.
• Concrete base. It involves pouring concrete, which includes stone, crushed stone and other fractions of a fairly large size.

This type of base is also great for a bath. Column bases can be made from:

• Brick;
• Tree;
• Reinforced concrete pipes ready or by pouring;
• Stone.

Preparatory work

In order to start building the foundation, you need to find out two main points regarding the calculations:

• The weight of the future building;
• Soil type.

As for the first, it is important to calculate the weight of the bath, taking into account the following characteristics of the structure:

1. wall type. They can be log, paving or frame.
2. Cover type. This is an attic version with insulation of different densities.
Here, mainly, the material with which the roof will be covered is taken into account.

The second point concerns the type of soil. To find out, you need to drill a hole and carefully examine the soil. Different types of soils are able to withstand different loads.

Here are some examples:

• Soil with a high content of crushed stone or gravel - stony soil - can withstand about 6 kgf per cm2.
• Sands of coarse fraction - up to about 4.5 kgf per cm2.
• Sandy loams are hard, loams are hard, fine sands can withstand up to 3 kgf per cm2.
• Sands of medium density, as well as plastic clays, have the smallest indicators - about 2 kgf per cm2.

Based on the allowable load on the ground, the allowable area of ​​​​the bath is determined.

Also, any preparatory work on construction involves clearing the territory. It is important to remove grass, branches, and other objects that interfere with work from the construction site.

The top layer of soil must be removed. In any case, a perfectly flat surface must be achieved in order for the construction of the foundation to be as successful as possible.

Material selection

As for the choice of material, there are two options:

• Or it is bought ready-made. Reinforced concrete, wooden poles - for a columnar base. Concrete blocks - for the tape.
• Or purchase of individual components, the concrete solution is mixed and poured.

When choosing a particular material or components, you should pay attention to quality. For example, if it is concrete, then it must be at least grade M200.

Calculations

The correct functioning of the bath will depend on how well the calculations of the base are made. This building is specific, it should concentrate heat and heat as much as possible, and also have a drain for used water.

Calculations depend on factors such as:

• The weight of the future building. It is influenced by the materials used for construction, as well as the weight of the furnace and other heavy elements provided.
• Soil type. Whether the soil is mobile or not - this affects the final choice of the "sole" of the structure.
• Ground water level. This indicator determines the depth of the foundation.
• soil freezing level.
• Terrain relief. It also needs to be taken into account, since, for example, a strip foundation will not work near a reservoir, and it is quite possible to build a bathhouse on supports.

Approximate indicators of the depth of laying the foundation for baths from different materials:

• Heavy buildings (stone, brick and others) should be built on foundations laid up to one and a half meters deep.
• Light structures (beams) can be built on the "sole" up to a meter deep.

A lot also depends on the height of the outbuilding. For example, if this is a two-story bath, then, of course, the foundation should be deepened. One-story buildings in two rooms are built on shallow foundations.

Marking the site for the foundation

The marking of the territory for construction involves the transfer of the foundation scheme to the ground. If you plan to build a strip foundation, then do not forget about drawing the inner contour.

The width of the tape monolith should be at least 10 cm more than the planned one. Also, if as a result of examining the soil it turned out that it is heaving (movable), then it is better to dig a trench under the “sole” wider so that later it will be possible to sprinkle it with sand.

Under the columnar view of the foundation, it is necessary to make markings for the pillars. They must be installed at the corners of the bath, as well as at the junction points of the internal walls. In general, the distance between the pillars is made no more than 2 meters.

Any bath involves laying a stove, installing a boiler, so do not forget about the foundation for them. It is made monolithic, solid in size of the base of the stove with ledges. The latter are needed in order to ensure the fire safety of the premises, because coals can fall out of the stove, sparks can fly out.

Stages of erection of a strip foundation

Creating a tape "sole" involves several stages:

1. Terrain preparation(it was mentioned above).
2. Digging a trench. She digs to a depth equal to the height of the foundation, and even a little deeper, so to speak, with a margin. This is necessary in order to have a place to backfill the sand and gravel cushion. When the pillow is formed, it must be covered with polyethylene or roofing material for waterproofing.
3. Formwork creation. The wooden frame is made from smoothly sanded boards, then the dismantling process is simplified. Boards must be strong, at least a centimeter thick. On the outside of the formwork, vertical supports are placed that keep the wooden structure from deformation, because under the pressure of the concrete solution, the boards can “disperse”.
4. Reinforcement. It is most convenient to make a metal structure outside the formwork. The reinforcement cage is assembled in two vertical rows and several horizontal rows. The latter are depth dependent. The rods are fastened together in different ways. The most common: Welding method; Knitting method.
5. Filling the formwork with concrete. Produced in stages. First pour one layer of the solution. He is given time to fill all the voids in the formwork, while knocking on it, or rather on the walls of a wooden structure. Also, in order to achieve an ideal filling of the trench, the fact of preparing the concrete solution itself remains important. It should not be too liquid, it is important to carefully observe all the proportions of the components.
6. Waterproofing. This stage of work can be carried out after a week after pouring. During this time, the "sole" has time to harden. Waterproofing can be done with bituminous mastic and only with it alone. Also additional protection is not forbidden. For example, roofing material can be glued onto this very mastic.

Stages of erecting a columnar foundation

It is somewhat similar to a strip base, since the filling is the same only in the formwork on the pillars - a grillage is made.

The stages of erecting a columnar base are as follows:

• Preparation of the construction site.
• Digging holes with a drill under the poles. It is desirable that the depth of the pits exceed the depth of freezing of the soil. By the way, the pillars can be made of completely different materials: reinforced concrete, brick, stone, and so on.
• Backfilling of sand, gravel to the bottom of the pits under the pillars. This will ensure the stability of the supports.
• If the pillars are planned to be made of reinforced concrete, then it is also necessary to mount the formwork and lay the frame into it. With sufficiently stable soil, it is allowed not to install the formwork.
• Pouring concrete pillars
• Creation of a grillage. It can be prefabricated or monolithic, that is, also poured directly into the formwork.
• Ensuring protection from moisture - waterproofing.

Questions often arise during construction, and this is inevitable. Especially for beginners, there are many doubts.

Experienced builders give simple tips that will help you quickly resolve issues:

• How to check the correctness of the planned lines for the foundation of the bath? To do this, stick pegs in the corners of the drawn square. Next, a rope, fishing line, or something else is stretched along the diagonals of the rectangle. The lengths of the diagonals, if properly marked, should match.
• So that the formwork does not absorb the cement mortar, it is necessary to pre-saturate the boards with water.
• To avoid saturation of the concrete solution with air in the lower layers of the foundation, it is necessary to use a special sleeve. It is laid directly into the trench and the concrete mixture is poured through it. Pouring concrete from a height is not permissible, since these same air voids appear for this reason.

Thus, the "sole" for the bath is made according to several of the above technologies. This outbuilding must have a solid, secure, secure base to provide a great outdoor getaway.

Whatever the purpose of the structure, the reliability of the foundation always determines its durability. Correctly figuring out which foundation for a bath is better is not an easy task for any builder. Especially a lot of trouble delivers complex soil (peat or heaving).

What factors influence the choice of foundation?

Even in the process, first of all, an objective assessment is given to the following factors, which can negatively affect the quality of the foundation if it is chosen incorrectly.

1. Depth of ground freezing. It depends on the region and is known to everyone. Soil swelling occurs in winter time when groundwater begins to freeze. These signs of heaving can be seen in the cracks in the nearby asphalt or in the mounds in the soil.
2. Soil characteristics are usually known if houses are being built nearby and you can ask the builders. If it is problematic, the upper layers are cut off until solid layers appear. A reliable remedy for heaving is to deepen the base to the level of freezing with a backfill of gravel and sand. The latter is always used, since it contributes to load balancing. Underestimation of heaving can lead to foundation displacement. Even its slight deformation leads to the appearance of cracks on the walls, displacement of slopes and openings. For normal soil, a laying depth of 0.5 m is sufficient.
3. Ground water level. Water has a destructive effect on concrete, it is necessary to create drainage or install a structure on piles.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: which one is better

To make the right choice of base for a bath, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of each type.

1. Strip foundation

When choosing which foundation for a bath is better, the majority stops at this type. It requires little expense, and you can do everything yourself. Uniform load and simple design create a solid foundation for the construction of small buildings.

For heavy walls, a recessed foundation is made for the bath. Which is better if the house is made of wood? Shallow (50 cm) is more suitable here due to small loads.

The foundation is solid and prefabricated. The first one is preferable, since it does not require additional equipment, and the monolithic design is highly reliable. For a bath, a wide selection of materials is possible:

• reinforced concrete;
• rubble concrete;
• brick.

The prefabricated support is laid out on a cement mortar from blocks. Solid red brick masonry is suitable for the foundation of the bath.

2. Column foundation

If economy and speed of construction are in the first place, then the pillars come to the fore in the question of which foundation for a bath is better. This option is also widely used to create extensions to the house and the construction of outbuildings made of wood and foam concrete. It is best suited for problematic soil.

The piles are lowered to a depth until the occurrence of solid soil. They cost more than poles, but the manufacturing principle is similar. For this, wells are made, reinforcement is installed and concrete is laid.

A reinforced concrete grillage is made from above, but for lightweight structures it can be made from timber. So that the heaving of the upper layers of the soil does not affect the building, a gap is created above ground level. You should also provide reliable protection of wood from moisture.

3. Slab foundation

A monolithic reinforced slab perfectly evens out loads in case of uneven ground displacement. At the same time, the foundation itself and the building are not deformed. A leveling layer of sand backfill is created from below. It is rarely used for a bath, since it is designed for heavy loads and is the most expensive in terms of material consumption.

4. Foundation on screw piles

Recently, screw piles, installed behind a short time. They do not require preliminary preparation of the territory and drilling of wells, which reduces material and labor costs. But at the same time, you will have to spend money on the purchase of piles and installation using special equipment. Manual installation is also possible if they fit well into the ground. In general, screw piles are a good budget option for building a bath. Installation will take only 1-3 days, after which you can immediately begin construction.

What is better to make a foundation for a bath. Foundation erection

Each requires its own construction technology.

1. Site preparation for construction

The site for construction is prepared in all cases, with the exception of the screw foundation, where excavation is not carried out. Chernozem is removed by 15 cm, the base is leveled, and markings are made.

2. The order of installation of the strip foundation

When a construction company inflates the price of work, the customer begins to think about what is better to make the foundation for the bath with his own hands. The tape monolithic base is suitable here due to the ease of manufacture as follows.

1. Digging trenches. Their dimensions depend on the condition of the soil and loads.
2. Foundation preparation. Making a pillow out of sand. The layer thickness for a shallow foundation is 300 mm.
3. at least 50 cm high. It is important to make the upper horizontal level even, so that in the future it will be easier to lay out the walls.
4. Laying a small concrete layer at the bottom and installing a reinforcement crate. Filling the entire volume of the formwork.
5. Foundation waterproofing. The easiest way is to lay it on top with two layers of roofing material.

3. Installation of a column foundation

In order not to think about what is the best foundation for a bath and how to make it, you can immediately stop at the option with pillars as the most famous and simple.

The columnar base is made as follows.

1. Calculation of the number of supports (for an average bath - at least 8 pieces and separately for internal walls).
2. Drilling holes to a depth of at least 1 m.
3. Making a sand cushion 250 mm high.
4. Laying out pillars of brick, buta or casting of concrete.
5. Checking the horizontal level throughout the foundation.

4. Mounting the screw base

To find a foundation for a bathhouse, which is best suited for problematic soil, everyone immediately remembers screw piles. With their use, buildings are erected even in swamps. After screwing into the ground, you can immediately build a building on them as follows.

1. Choice of screw piles. Their length should be greater than the freezing depth, but not less than 1.5 m.
2. Piles, the length of which does not exceed 2.5 m, can be screwed in manually. 2 people cope with this, you must ensure that there is no skew.
3. After all the supports are screwed into the ground, the horizontal level is checked with a rangefinder.
4. Concrete mortar is poured inside the metal pillars of the piles.
5. When the concrete hardens, heads and a horizontal grillage from a channel should be welded to the piles, connecting the base into a monolithic structure with a uniform distribution of loads.

5. Manufacture of a grillage for columnar and screw foundations

When deciding which is the best foundation for a bath to choose, one must not forget about the grillage, which is its important part. It is also selected based on the characteristics of the structure, costs and professional skills.

Reinforced concrete grillage is the most reliable and profitable building foundation. Materials required for its installation:

• fittings;
• wire for strapping;
• concrete mortar;
• shield formwork.

A metal reinforcing mesh is knitted onto the installed piles in increments of 15-30 cm around the entire perimeter of the building. It is attached to mortgages inserted into holes drilled in the upper part of the piles, if they are screwed. Also, reinforcement is inserted into the poles and tied with longitudinal whips. With concrete piles, whips are tied up with reinforcement protruding at the ends.

The formwork is installed completely and aligned along the upper edge. Then concrete is poured: first inside the pillars, and then into the formwork. The ends of the piles are inside the monolith.

A grillage made of timber is often used for wooden buildings. The material is pre-dried, corner elements are selected and cuts are made for connection with a lock. Then they outline the corners of the future grillage and start tying from one of them. The beam is attached with brackets or corners, and to the pile heads with bolts.

A grillage from a channel is made for stone houses, as it withstands the load well. It is well welded to the heads of screw piles.

When a foundation is being built for a bathhouse, expert advice is needed here to avoid mistakes.

Conclusion

The foundation for a bath is easy to choose due to the wide variety of designs. But at the same time, there is no unambiguous answer to the question of which foundation for a bath is better. The choice of a suitable type is determined by the features of the structure, the properties of the soil and the capabilities of the developer.

The correct calculation and laying of the foundation is one of the most crucial moments at the construction stage. But if the average layman can still figure out the materials and type of foundation, then how to determine the depth of the foundation for a particular area is another question.

The depth of the foundation depends on many factors - these are climatic features, and groundwater, and the type of soil. The foundation of any building must be dug into the ground to avoid destruction of the structure from the gravity of the building, the movement of soils invisible to the eye and washing away precipitation.

Deeper is not always better

Some experienced architects believe that the deeper the foundation is buried, the stronger it is. However, many customers want to save on materials, and foremen are sure that a shallow foundation is not always a suitable option.

In order to determine the correct level of penetration, you will need the help of specialists to make geological and engineering surveys, measure the depth of freezing and the presence of groundwater height, and also examine the type of soil. An important role in the depth of the foundation is played by the design feature of the building, its superstructures, the number of storeys and the materials used.

If your site has “restless” soil, then it makes no sense to dig deep into the foundation, it is best to create a strong, compacted, finely ruined sole. For the construction of a non-massive structure, such as a bathhouse, it is generally not worth deepening the foundation too much and thereby “digging funds into the ground”.

The depth of the foundation depends on how much you have studied the problem of your site, for example, if water is often visible on the surface, then it is imperative to create a proper drainage system. If necessary, the foundation can be strengthened with supports.

Regions where landslides often occur, and the foundation is regularly washed away, it is necessary to strengthen the soil. For sandy soil, silicification is required - this is the introduction into the soil liquid glass mixed with water 1:1. After watering, the sand must be carefully compacted and the foundation can be laid further.

Determining the depth of the foundation - important points

First determine the average temperature of the region. You can, of course, proceed from average calculations, but if you live in the northern region, then it is better to play it safe and lay the foundation to a depth of 110 cm.

You also need to consider whether your basement will be heated, if this part of the building is unheated, then the laying is done 10% deeper than the freezing level. With a heated basement, the laying depth is 20% above the freezing level. The foundation for a bath or garage can be laid to a depth of 40 cm, but no less.

The depth of the foundation in all regions is different. If it is difficult for you to determine this moment yourself, then you can ask your neighbors for such characteristics. However, you need to consider whether there is a reservoir near your building, which can cause soil heaving.

Groundwater and soil heaving

Seasonal heaving is when water freezes in winter and increases in volume, pushing out everything that is in the ground. During the spring thaw, the water melts and lowers the soil into place. If you plan to lay a strip foundation, then you need to find out the water saturation of your region. If the soil is loam, then the depth should be significant.

Feature of a shallow foundation

When determining the laying of the foundation, you also need to pay attention to the materials that you will use for construction. For example, logs and timber are considered to be flexible building materials that easily endure all ground disturbances. For a log cabin bath, it will be quite enough to lay the foundation to a depth of 50 cm.

Most often, shallow foundations are used to save money: easy excavation and the use of coarse sand, which helps to reduce the level of deformation. But stone and brick are "fragile" material, unable to withstand all the fluctuations and stretching of the soil.

We hope our article helped you, and now you know how the depth of the foundation is determined. We wish you successful and proper construction.

How is the depth of the foundation under the bath determined?

The correct calculation and laying of the foundation is one of the most crucial moments at the construction stage. But if with materials and type of foundation it can still

We determine the depth of laying the foundation of the tape type

The strip foundation is a monolithic reinforced structure with a rectangular cross section, which easily takes the weight of the load-bearing walls of low-rise buildings with a specific density of materials in the range of 1000-1300 kg/m 3 . The demand for this type of foundation in private construction is explained by the relative simplicity of its construction, good bearing capacity and average costs. The main criterion for reliability is the amount of penetration into the ground, its calculation, taking into account the parameters of the soil and the type of building, is mandatory.

Influencing factors

The tape is laid under all the load-bearing walls of a residential building or outbuildings, absorbing and redistributing both all weight loads from above and the forces of frost heaving of the soil from below and on the sides of the monolith. With its insufficient depth, soil movements during freezing and thawing can displace or destroy the foundation, which leads to distortion and cracking of the walls or fence, which is unacceptable. In the correct reinforced concrete tape, the sole is located on stable layers that are not subject to frost heaving, ideally not heated. In general, the following factors influence its depth:

1. The type of soil, depending on the type of rocks and the degree of their mobility and water saturation, they are divided into heaving and non-heaving. In the first case, the expediency of erecting a tape is in doubt, its depth must be at least the level of freezing (and sometimes this is not enough). It is recommended to abandon the tape base when building on silty soils, artificial embankments, peat bogs and wetlands.

2. The degree of freezing is a factor depending on the climatic conditions of the region.

3. The level of groundwater is a criterion inextricably linked with the previous one. When they flow below the freezing line, there are no problems at all during the construction of the foundation: on moving soils, the laying depth is chosen equal to half, on stable soils - the minimum allowable.

4. Massiveness and durability of the future building. When erecting low-rise buildings, the factors listed above are determined by taking soil samples and studying the behavior of water at a depth of 3.5 to 5 m (the higher the mass of the building, the lower the sample is taken), for multi-storey buildings - at least 8-9 m.

5. Design features: the presence of a basement or heating in the house. According to the rules, unheated structures are placed 10% below the standard freezing line, heated structures are 20-30% higher.

Foundation depth calculation

The relationship between the above factors and the height of the strip base to zero is shown in the table:

When building on inhomogeneous soils or in the presence of moving and water-saturated layers, the height of the tape is increased until a solid foundation with stable characteristics is reached. The upper limit is limited by considerations of economic feasibility; if necessary, bookmarks below 2.5 m should choose another type of construction.

All tapes are divided into shallow and deep. Without taking additional measures, the first type is possible only when laying the foundation for a wooden house with a floor number of no more than 2, an aerated concrete or frame structure, a bathhouse or a garage on stable soils and with groundwater flowing below the freezing level by 2 m. In other cases, it is considered more reliable deep-seated option. The calculated value of the tape height directly depends on the freezing line and is determined by the formula:

k - coefficient of influence of the heat of the building itself on the degree of soil freezing from the side of the outer walls, for houses without heating it is taken equal to 1.1, for strip foundations of residential buildings with heating - from 0.4 to 1, depending on the type of floor arrangement, the presence of a basement or heated subfloor and the average daily temperature in the rooms inside. This is a tabular parameter determined by the rules of heat engineering calculation;

Df is the standard freezing depth. Its value can be taken from tables with the results of long-term observations or calculated based on the soil parameters on the site and average monthly negative temperatures using the formula Df=do·M; do is taken equal to 0.23 for clays and loams, 0.28 for sandy loams, silty and fine sands, 0.3 is the same for gravel and medium size, 0.34 for coarse clastics.

The easiest way is to take Df from the tables, they are indicated in many building and climatic codes of rules, for example, in SNiP 23-01-99. When calculating the foundation in the Moscow region on stony soils, it is 2.0, coarse and medium sands - 1.76, clay and loam - 1.35, fine sands - 1.64. When conducting work on heterogeneous soils, a weighted average value is selected to determine the minimum allowable depth of laying the foundation of a building. It is important to make sure that its sole rests on stable layers.

The resulting parameter will be minimal, depending on the complexity of the actual soil, the level of occurrence of the lower edge is 10-20% higher than the calculated one. When building relatively light houses from gas blocks with a height of up to 3 on stable soils with a groundwater level above the freezing line, the strip foundation should be deepened by 10-20 cm, when using heavier building materials for the construction of load-bearing walls - up to 30-35.

Despite the direct relationship between the depth of the tape and its reliability, it is important to understand the principle: with intense exposure to frost heaving, the risk of structural failure is invariably high. Increasing the height of the part submerged into the ground does not solve all the problems, but leads to an increase in costs. In order to avoid such a situation and reduce the effect of frost heaving, a number of measures are taken:

1. The tape base is placed on a drainage cushion made of crushed stone and sand, the mandatory minimum of this layer for residential buildings is 20 cm, for a frame structure or a bath - 15, on especially difficult soils it is recommended to fall asleep even under the foundations of heavy fences made of brick, stone or concrete .

2. If there is a risk of waterlogging, a storm sewer or drainage system is provided around the perimeter of the building.

3. The ends of the tape are protected from moisture by building materials with a low coefficient of friction, coating mastics and rolled waterproofing have suitable characteristics.

4. The section of the foundation is not rectangular, but trapezoidal, with a narrowing in the upper part.

5. The walls of the base are covered with denser types of soils, with less ability to accumulate moisture. The most radical and effective measure is a complete soil replacement by digging a pit below the freezing level, followed by backfilling and compacting the sand.

6. Concrete blind areas with a slight slope (up to 10 °) are equipped around the entire perimeter. Their width depends on the type of soil and the length of the roof overhang; in particularly difficult cases, they are laid 1 m around the house. The easiest way to reduce the effect of frost heaving (and the depth of the foundation of the house) is to insulate it with extruded polystyrene foam boards. The laying of such material 5 cm thick significantly reduces the risk of structures freezing.

The above measures are implemented partially or in combination and allow you to choose a more economical and less labor-intensive shallow strip foundation, even when building on flooded and complex soils. When digging a trench, selecting formwork and calculating materials, one should remember the need for a drainage layer and a one-time pouring of the buried and above-ground parts. At a properly laid foundation, the height of the basement area is always less than that filled, otherwise the building will not last long without taking additional action.

Features of a shallow foundation

The best option for a light low-rise cottage, a frame structure, a bathhouse or a garage is a shallow reinforced monolithic tape. Its minimum depth for residential buildings on all types of non-rocky and low-rock soils is 45 cm, on clay - 75. In practice, a tape shallow foundation is laid 50-70 cm below ground level (with a basement height of 40-50 cm). For a one-story bath, a tape of 40 cm is enough; for a heavy and high fence made of metal, concrete or stone, a monolith of 60-80 is required, the same for light ones - 30-40.

During the construction, a number of requirements and recommendations are taken into account:

• Regardless of the purpose of the building, measures are provided for the removal of water. Even fences need a blind area.
• The maximum allowable height of the above-ground section does not exceed 4 times the width of the tape. At the same time, by analogy with deep foundations, it should be less than the part below the ground level.
• If there is a subfloor, it is important to take care of laying the ventilation products even at the pouring stage.
• During the construction of extended buildings and load-bearing structures, the length of one compartment of a reinforced monolith is limited to 30 m on stable and slow-moving soils, 25 - medium, 20 and 15 strongly and excessively heaving, respectively.
• In order to provide maximum protection against freezing, the side walls of the shallow base are recommended to be insulated and waterproofed.

The depth of the strip foundation for the garage, bathhouse and house, calculation

What affects the depth of the strip foundation? Features of the construction of shallow foundations. Helpful Tips from experts.

What is the "bath foundation height" and "laying depth"? What to take into account?

In view of the fact that some confusion is possible when using construction terms by non-professionals, it makes sense to devote an entire article to the definition and disclosure of such concepts as “the height of the foundation for a bath from the ground”, “the depth of the foundation for a bath”, especially when applied to various circumstances, namely : type of soil, type of foundation itself, wall material.

All these factors affect specific height and depth figures.

We'll start with definitions.

Terminology: bath foundation height and depth

The foundation for the building can be conditionally divided into parts: aboveground and underground.

The foundation height is that part of it that is located above the ground surface, and its value is determined by the reference from this surface. Depth that part of it that is located in the soil is determined, and in this case the reference from the ground surface is also implied.

The main purpose of the height of the base is to prevent the bottom of the building from coming into contact with the soil. This is for warning. undesirable consequences of a destructive nature, the causes of which may be: shrinkage of the building, moisture, and more.

The depth of the foundation under the bath depends largely on such factors: the mass of the building, the type of soil on which it is located.

The deepening is also designed to protect the structure from the negative impact caused by some features that appear when the soil freezes.

Useful video

Watch a video that talks about how deep you need to lay the foundation, and explains the reasons for this choice.

Now consider the dependence of height and depth on the factors already mentioned.

What determines the depth and height of the foundation from the ground

We systematize what is already known. The vertical size of the foundation is affected by:

• material;
• priming;
• presence / absence of a basement;
• snow depth;
• precipitation intensity;
• ground water level;
• freezing depth.

The material from which the base of the bath is created is quite diverse: it can be reinforced concrete, steel, wood, brick, stone, asbestos-cement pipes.

Pile supports(from steel or reinforced concrete) are usually made at least 1.5 meters, and if necessary, the length of the pile can reach 9 meters. Most of it, of course, is underground.

Reinforced concrete slab type has a thickness of 10-30 cm, but is often supplemented with stiffeners, with which the total thickness can reach 50 cm or more.

Reinforced concrete belt type deepens either 20 cm deeper than the fertile layer, or 20 deeper than the thickness of the freezing soil - this gives an average difference of 1.5 meters. The main factor is the heaving of the soil.

Column supports, which are made of brick, stone, wood, asbestos-cement pipes or reinforced concrete, are buried in the same way as a strip foundation: either shallow if the soil does not freeze, or deep if it is heaving.

Priming- a much more influential factor, because it is he who determines the type of foundation, and hence for its vertical dimensions.

The bearing capacity of the soil is the most important. Buildings weigh a lot, so weak soil sags under their weight, which leads to deformation and destruction of the structure. The foundation is needed in order to transfer the load from the building to denser soil layers with the highest bearing capacity.

Almost the same meaning the depth of soil freezing in a given area. If the soil is composed of clay, loamy and other heaving soils, this means that the volume of the soil increases when the water in it turns into ice, and decreases when the ice melts, which leads to vertical and horizontal shifts. In addition, the shifts are uneven.

So foundations are buried below the freezing level of the soil- this gives a reliable support on the carrier layer and the ability to resist soil movement. Although the last statement is true for heavy buildings, the lungs still suffer from heaving of the soil, and therefore need additional protection.

All this means that on dense soil with good bearing capacity, composed, for example, of coarse sand and gravel, it is possible to make shallow foundations for a bath of any type, while problematic soil - heaving or weak, requires deepening to the bearing layer. So the soil affects the height and depth of the foundation.

Basement in a building affects this way: the countdown of the foundation starts from its base. In principle, the basement is correctly considered part of the buried foundation.

Another factor is ground water level. According to the rules of construction, it is necessary to lay the sole of the foundation above the level to which water rises in the soil.

But this is not always possible. After all, groundwater can be above the freezing level of the soil, and this creates a contradiction with the rule that the foundation is laid below the level of frozen soil. In such cases, construction becomes more expensive, because it is necessary to solve the problem of draining groundwater and increasing the stability of the foundation.

The last two factors snow depth and precipitation intensity in a given area) affect not so much the depth of the foundation as the height of the foundation.

You remember that that part of the foundation that rises above the ground, one of its functions is to protect the walls from moisture. Therefore, when choosing a height, it is worth relying on statistical data indicating the height of the snow cover in the snowiest winter. The foundation must be 10 cm above this mark.

IMPORTANT! If there is little snow, then you need to start from a minimum height of 30 cm.

As for the intensity of precipitation, the higher it is, the greater the need for a blind area and the organization of storm drains and drainage. In this case, of course, the height of the wetting of the ground part of the building should be less than the height of the foundation.

Now is the time to consider in more detail the dependence of the size of the foundation on its type.

By type of foundation

This type transfers the load to the ground in the form of a tape encircling the perimeter of the building and passing under the partitions inside. The design is more stable if it is made of monolithic reinforced concrete, and less stable when made from prefabricated blocks.

The depth depends on the levels: groundwater, soil freezing, occurrence of the bearing layer. The rules are as follows: the foundation is deepened by 10-20 cm into the bearing layer, while it is desirable that its sole be above the groundwater level and below the frozen ground boundary.

The minimum height of the strip foundation is 20 cm, but it should be higher where there is high snow cover and heavy rainfall.

Shallow

This type has a total vertical size of 50-70 cm, which, minus 20-30 cm of height, gives 20-50 cm of penetration into the ground. Usually a deepening is made 20 cm below the border of the fertile layer. See photo with diagram above.

deep-seated

The determining factor is the depth of the carrier layer, then - the depth of freezing. The rules have already been discussed above. It is clear that if the carrier layer lies 2 meters from the surface, and the freezing depth is 1.5 meters, then it will have to be buried by 2.2 meters, and not by 1.7.

Columnar shallow

There are more than two options for a columnar base, but we will consider only the one in the title. For full deepening, the same tables of soil freezing and the results of geostudies are used as for a strip foundation (and according to the same rules).

For a bath, a shallow foundation is often made, the height of which above the ground is 20-30 cm, and the laying depth is 40-60 cm. Therefore, the vertical size of one pillar is from 60 to 90 cm.

Piles can be steel and reinforced concrete, the latter are divided into bored and finished. Let's talk about screw and bored in more detail.

bored

Drilling a well is not so laborious as to refuse complete deepening, even for a bath, if the soil requires it. So the depth of the bored foundations is usually full- with a penetration of 20 cm into the carrier layer. The exact figures depend on the conditions of a particular site, but the maximum does not exceed 5 meters.

As for the height of the bored foundation, it usually ranges from 20 cm or more.

This type of pile is used as a foundation on permafrost, as well as on the weakest soils, in which the bearing layer is at a considerable depth. So the minimum pile length is 165 cm and the maximum length is 9 meters.

The height to which the pile heads rise above the ground is at least 20 cm, which is stipulated by SNiPs, but in reality it can vary for each pile, because they are often placed on terrain with significant elevation changes.

For this foundation, a foundation pit is usually dug, which is partially filled with a sand and gravel pad, after which the turn of the concrete slab itself comes, which is poured immediately into the formwork (sometimes after a rough screed). The slab foundation will be deeply buried only if it serves as the base of the basement. Otherwise, the top of the slab is at ground level.

The value of this thickness depends on the bearing capacity of the soil and the weight of the building. The slab becomes thicker, the greater the weight of the building and the lower the bearing capacity of the soil(It is not necessary for these parameters to match each other).

The minimum thickness is 10 cm. This is enough for the lightest buildings. Heavy construction may require 20-30 cm slab with double reinforcement inside.

So we come to another important factor - the weight of the building. And it, in particular, depends on the material of the walls.

By type of wall materials

Wooden bath: log house, timber

Wood is one of the most sensitive materials to moisture. Therefore, it will be relevant for him to increase the height of the foundation of any type - the higher, the less walls are available for precipitation.

As for the depth of laying, here again the primary will be the bearing capacity of the soil, which is correlated with the total load on it (the weight of the bath - roof, walls, ceilings, equipment, people).

Frame, panel

The same applies to these constructions as was said about the tree. If it is possible to raise the foundation higher above ground level, it is better to do so.

By themselves, the frame and panel baths are lightweight structures, therefore (if the soil allows), under them, you can make shallow foundations of any type.

Foam block

Here's what happens to the foam block from moisture

Cellular concrete, from which blocks are made, are of two types: foam blocks and gas silicate blocks. The former are relatively resistant to moisture, but the latter are simply impregnated with it. But both try to protect from water. Therefore, the increased height of the foundation can help here too.

Foam blocks are a lightweight material, so the load of such walls on the foundation is small. It means that on firm ground better to do under such a bath shallow foundation.

From other blocks, bricks

Other block materials - brick, cinder blocks - weigh much more. Therefore, they require a more solid foundation. The height will be affected by the subsidence of the soil and the weight of the bath. After all, in addition to protecting against precipitation, the height of the foundation is able to cover the gradual shrinkage of the soil. So even for a brick, a high foundation will not hurt.

The depth of laying for such buildings is preferably full.

So, the height of the foundation for the bath is determined primarily by the height of the snow cover, and how deep the foundation for the bath should be - the bearing capacity of the soil. All other factors will either be derivative or have a lesser impact. Don't skimp on the foundation where nature is against you.

The height of the foundation for a bath from the ground, the depth of the foundation - terms, standards, recommendations

What is the height and depth of the bath foundation, how do these parameters depend on the type of soil, foundation, wall material, and what SNiPs say. How deep should be the foundation for the bath, consider the answer to the question in detail.

Determining the depth of the foundation for the bath

Bath foundation depth

The bath is very popular among both the villagers and the townspeople. At the same time, you can build a bath in almost any area. The main attention in the construction of a bath requires a foundation. It is this part that will determine the life of the entire structure. Therefore, the construction of the foundation for the bath should be carried out taking into account the following important points.

Features of arranging the base for the bath

In general, the base for the bath does not have any special differences. However, when building it, some points should be taken into account:

Features of the base for the bath

• In most cases, baths are light buildings, so a shallow depth of tape base with a pillow of sand and gravel can be considered the best option.
• For a stove made of brick or stone, a separate foundation is required, lagging behind the main tape by several centimeters.
• It is obligatory to have holes in the foundation for ventilation.
• Particular attention is paid to the organization of the removal of waste water from the bath.
• In some cases, you need to consider summing up the necessary communications.

Types of foundations for a bath

A bath can be erected on any foundation, it all depends on the desire and material capabilities. The most popular in the construction of baths are two types of foundation:

Variety of bases for a bath

1. The tape base is suitable for the construction of small-sized buildings made of brick and stone on soils of weak heaving. This is a fairly solid foundation, although it requires considerable investment in the device.
2. The columnar base under the bath is used on problematic soils. Does not require large construction costs. More suitable for buildings made of wood or foam blocks.

What affects the depth of laying the strip base

Correctly determined depth of the foundation will help to avoid subsidence of walls and foundations, deformation of the foundation and structure, and prevent cracks. Therefore, the calculation of the depth of the foundation must be carried out before starting work on its installation. The following points are taken into account:

Soil type

Geological studies help determine the exact type of soil. Depending on the result obtained, the depth of the foundation is determined:

• On soil with a predominance of fine or silty sand, there is a possibility of strong shrinkage of the foundation. To compensate for this shortcoming, the depth of the bookmark is increased from 0.5 meters to 1 meter.
• On gravelly and large sandy soils, which are distinguished by reliable bearing qualities, the foundation shrinks slightly. Therefore, here it is possible to equip a shallow foundation, the depth of which lies in the range of 0.2-0.5 m. In addition, on such soil, it is possible to build a foundation on pillars or on piles.
• Rocky soils are characterized by good bearing capacity. There is almost no shrinkage of the foundation, so there is the possibility of erecting large-sized structures. Rocky soil is not subject to heaving, therefore, it is possible to deepen the foundation slightly (within 0.2 m).
• Clay soils have a finely porous structure. In the pores of such soil, accumulation of water can be observed, which leads to swelling at low air temperatures. The calculation of the depth of the foundation on such soils must be carried out, taking into account the depth of freezing. Based on this, we can conclude that the depth of the foundation should be 10-20 cm below the freezing level.

Soil types when choosing a foundation

ground water

The location of the water table also plays a huge role in determining the depth of the foundation.

• If the groundwater lies below the freezing level of the soil for more than 2 meters, then the depth of the foundation for the bath should be more than 50 cm.
• With a close location of groundwater and the level of freezing, it is necessary to dig a trench to a mark located 10 cm below the freezing of the soil.
• With a close location of groundwater, the construction of the foundation for the bath should be below the freezing level of the soil.

wall material

In many ways, the material from which it is planned to make the walls of the building determines the depth of the foundation.

building wall material

• Walls made of stone or brick are quite heavy, so the trench must be dug to a depth of 100-150 centimeters.
• For timber and logs used for the construction of a bathhouse, a large depth of foundation is also required, at least 100 centimeters.
• The cinder block walls of the bath have a mass several times less than brick walls, so the foundation can be arranged at a depth of 50 centimeters.
• Walls made of aerated concrete and foam concrete give an insignificant load to the base. The depth of the foundation for such a structure can begin at the level of 40 centimeters.

What determines the depth of the columnar foundation

The following factors influence the depth of immersion of pillars for a bath:

• Soil type and its bearing capacity.
• Depth of soil freezing.
• proximity to groundwater.
• The material used to build a bath.

Taking into account the listed criteria, we can say that the columnar base for a bath can be of several types:

• Recessed base. Its depth should be located below the freezing level by 50 cm or more. A recessed version of the foundation can be used on clay soils prone to severe heaving. This is the most stable and reliable option. On such a foundation, you can build a bath from any building materials including stone and brick.
• The pillars of a shallow foundation are lowered into the ground to a depth of 40 cm to 70 cm. It can be used in areas with a predominance of sandy and rocky soils.
• On soils of weak heaving, it is possible to build a bathhouse on a columnar, non-buried foundation. The main condition for this is that the structure has a small area and low weight. When erecting buildings on rocky or coarse-grained soils, you can also use a non-buried foundation. These can be baths made of logs and timber with a fairly large area.

Correctly calculated depth of the foundation under the bath will allow you to determine the appropriate type of foundation. Proper laying of the foundation will protect the structure from deformation and destruction, extending the service life for a long time.

What is the correct depth of the foundation for the bath?

The depth of the foundation for the bath depends on the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, the proximity of groundwater and the material for the construction of the bath.

The indisputable fact is that the reliability of the building depends entirely on the strength and quality of the foundation. It is quite possible to carry out its filling with your own hands. This will make it possible to save significant funds in the family budget.

To be sure of the result, it is necessary to reproduce the correct dimensions of the foundation for the bath. They, in turn, are influenced by the composition of the soil, the type of structure, its part and the thickness of the planned walls. In this article, we will look at various variations.

Factors affecting the height and width of the foundation

So, first of all, you should pay attention to the soil.

Soil influence

The type and composition of the base also affects the size of the foundation for the bath and its appearance, tape or pile.

Great for tape:

• rocky ground;
• sand base;
• dry loams.

Columnar is suitable for:

• wet clay;
• peat soil.

Strong rocks make it possible to deepen the trench by only 50 cm, and a soft unstable base requires twice as much distance, at least one meter. Above the ground in both cases, it is necessary that the concrete rises 30 cm above the soil freezing zone.

Thus, the size of the foundation for a bath in height is about 80 cm with stable dense soil and about 130 cm in soft, loose soil.

The width of the foundation for a bath does not depend on the base, it is significantly influenced by the type of construction and the width of the walls. Let's consider in more detail.

Influence of the type of foundation

In this section, we will talk about what kind of structure you will use: tape or pile. Consider first their advantages and disadvantages:

Tape

It is a monolithic concrete structure around the entire perimeter of the building.

pros

• Very high strength. Easily withstands two-story buildings.
• Additional thermal insulation. It has a higher significance in our case, since an optimally high ability to store heat indoors is necessary for a full-fledged one.
• The possibility of creating a cellar or subfloor in the future.

Minus

• higher price end result due to the use of more building materials.

pile

In this case, concreting is used partially, by creating columns at the same distance from each other.

pros

• Significant savings, since there is no need for a widespread pouring of cement.
• Preferred when building a sauna on a slope or in a valley.

Minus

• Possesses less margin of safety.

Tip: when planning a small foundation.
Such a project will come out much cheaper, but there will still not be much pressure on the foundation.

The width of the foundation for a bath in a tape version should be 10 cm more than the planned walls. At the same time, under the internal partitions, you can make it the same thickness as themselves.

The size of the foundation for the bath in the form of pillars also depends on the size of the building itself. With a small design, you can install piles 20 cm by 20 cm every one and a half meters, and with a large one - 40 cm by 40 cm every three meters. In length, they must be at least a meter for any type of soil.

Features of the base for the oven

Separately, it is necessary to disassemble the manufacture of the foundation for the furnace. In this case, the instruction is slightly different from pouring a common base.

Consider two options that differ in the material used:

metal oven

To deal with the dimensions in this case, consider the entire installation process:

• We dig a half-meter deepening. Width and length in this case depend on the dimensions of this furnace model.
• We fall asleep crushed stone with a layer of 25 cm.
• We carefully tamp.

• Pour a thin layer of thick cement on top.
• We are waiting 24 hours.
• We lay a layer of waterproofing: roofing felt or polyethylene film 3 mm thick.
• Fill the entire hole with concrete. Composition of the mixture: cement sand and gravel in proportions 1:2.5:4.
• If necessary, raise the furnace base to the height of the common foundation, use burnt bricks.

brick oven

The base for a brick structure requires a much stronger base due to the added weight:

• We make a recess in the soil by 70 cm.
• We dig the width and length 10 cm more than the oven itself. This will create a boundary layer to protect the concrete from soil movements.
• We cover the bottom with a fifteen-centimeter layer of sand, moisten and carefully tamp.
• Pour crushed stone on top of the sand and also ram.
• Then once again repeat the creation of the sand layer.
• After the entire pillow has settled, we install a wooden formwork around the perimeter of the pit.
• Inside we place a structure of metal rods connected by soft wire. This will greatly increase the strength of the concrete.

Tip: do not use welding to connect rebar.
This breaks the elasticity of the metal.

• Pouring concrete solution. We use the formula for its manufacture the same as when installing an iron stove.

• After three days, we remove the details of the formwork.
• We process from above with tar.
• We fill the gaps between the mass of concrete and the ground with gravel mixed with sand.

Tip: do not tie the entire building.
Because they can shrink differently and destroy each other.

Conclusion

A strong foundation is very important for the strength of the entire building. Therefore, it must be done with high quality. It is easy to do the work yourself, which will save a lot.

Also, for greater savings, in some cases, you can use the installation of a pile foundation, rather than a strip foundation.

The dimensions depend on the quality and density of the soil, the choice of the type of filling, the thickness of the proposed walls: the foundation for the bath is calculated based on these parameters. It is important to remember here that a deeper and wider design will be more reliable, but more expensive. You should try to find a balance using the recommendations suggested in the article.

It should be noted that the concrete base for the furnace has its own characteristics in laying and should be separate from overall structure. Its width and depth are determined by the material of manufacture: metal or brick.

Good luck with your construction work!

The foundation is the foundation of any building. It is not difficult to pour the foundation for a bath with your own hands, the main thing is to follow all the recommendations and rules for construction. For a room such as a bathhouse, with high humidity and drainage features, it is very important to make the foundation of high quality. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the process of erecting a strip foundation, as the most popular basis for a bath, so that the building serves as long as possible and pleases its owners.

If it is built from blocks or bricks, it is advisable to pour a solid monolithic, tape or tape-column reinforced foundation. For lighter structures made of timber, logs or frame baths, columnar, pile, or strip shallow foundations are applicable. In order to choose the optimal foundation for a future bath, it is recommended to draw up projects and calculate the amount of materials, structural strength, thermal engineering, etc.

Do-it-yourself strip foundation for a bath

This foundation is the most popular. You can fill it with your own hands, while taking care of laying communications. For work you will need:

• earthwork tools;
• stakes, cord and measuring instruments;
• formwork boards;
• metal fittings and knitting wire;
• ready-made concrete, or a concrete mixer, tools, containers and a mixture for preparing a solution;
• pipes for laying sewerage;
• self-tapping screws and a screwdriver or a construction stapler;
• waterproofing - mastic and roofing material.

Training

Where to build a bath? First of all, pay attention to the landscape of your site and the type of sewerage that will be equipped. So, for example, a cesspool and a septic tank should be located away from water intake points, reservoirs, neighboring plots. If the bath drain is connected to the central sewer, then the building can be erected in any convenient place on the site, for example, at a small (from 30 meters) distance from the river, pond, pool.

Advice! Even at the preparation stage, think about how to hide the area in front of the bath from the eyes of strangers. Make markings under or determine places for planting trees and shrubs.

Also, preparation comes down to removing the topsoil and leveling the site. To do this, you should use the services of special equipment.

markup

We will make the markup based on the large-scale project of the future bath. It will be necessary to mark the outer and inner lines of the walls.

To mark the outer perimeter, you need to take a building angle, cord, tape measure, pegs and a plumb line. Checking the verticality with a plumb line, we drive in the first peg in the place where one of the corners of the building will be located.

Next, install 4 more pegs in the same way, checking the angles for accuracy. We carry out control measurements of the diagonals of the perimeter of the bath. If they are equal, then you can start marking the inner perimeter, if not, then we correct the position of the stakes, repeatedly rechecking the lengths of the sides, the accuracy of the angles and the diagonal. We stretch the cord between the stakes. The horizontal position of the cord will mark the height of the foundation. We check the stretched cord with a level and proceed to marking the internal partitions and the perimeter.

We retreat from the outer perimeter to a distance equal to the thickness of the tape base. We drive in stakes and pull the cord using a plumb line, square and tape measure. We mark the location of future partitions with a cord.

Excavation

Carefully, in order not to disturb the markings, it is necessary to dig ditches for pouring the foundation. The depth of the foundation can be determined by specifying the type of soil and referring to the table below.

Soil types	Foundation soils within the estimated freezing depth	Distance from the planning mark to the groundwater level during the period of soil freezing	Foundation depth
Non-porous	Coarse clastic, gravel sands, coarse and medium size	Not standardized
heaving	The sand is fine and dusty	Exceeds the calculated freezing depth by more than 2 meters	Any, regardless of the freezing depth, but not less than 50 cm
heaving	slurry	The same, not less than 2 meters	Not less than 3/4 of the calculated freezing depth, but not less than 0.7 meters
heaving	Loam and clay	Less than the estimated freezing depth	Not less than the estimated freezing depth

The bottom of the trenches must be tamped with a vibrating plate or manual rammer and leveled by checking with a hydraulic level.

Immediately after ramming, we fill the trenches with sand. The thickness of the pillow can be as follows:

• shallow foundation - up to 7 cm;
• deep foundation - up to 15 cm;
• foundation of a "floating" type - up to 40 cm.

It is also important to level the sand horizontally and compact it, soaking it with plenty of water. If the thickness of the sand layer is large, then backfilling, tamping and watering are carried out in layers (5-7 cm each). Further work can be done after 2-3 days, when it dries.

Prices for vibrorammers

Vibrorammer

Can be assembled from shields, slate, fiberboard and other similar materials. By the way, shields made of plastic or metal can be rented, which will greatly simplify the construction process. It is desirable to wrap the formwork materials with a film, then they can be reused in the construction of other objects.

They are installed in trenches, supported from the outside with lumber and stakes. Between the walls of the formwork, wooden cross braces and metal studs are installed with a step of 50 cm so that the shields do not diverge to the sides under the mass of poured concrete. The shields are fastened with the ground with long nails (20 cm), between themselves - with self-tapping screws or a stapler.

The shields must immediately be provided with holes for the output sewer pipes and other communications. Otherwise, after pouring, you will have to drill concrete, which will negatively affect the strength of the foundation.

Advice! If you do not use a film to protect the wooden formwork, then attach the glassine with a stapler. It will prevent the wood from quickly absorbing moisture from the concrete solution and, as a result, cracking the foundation.

Video - Do-it-yourself timber formwork

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Video - Formwork for a strip foundation fixed from XPS

The armored belt is made of thick reinforcement (>12 mm longitudinal and 6-8 mm transverse, vertical reinforcement). For work, you will need a grinder, a wire for tying an armored belt, a welding machine, and a tape measure.

The belt consists of longitudinal (four or more), transverse and vertical reinforcements. In this case, the entire structure must be 5 cm away from the formwork, soil and the upper point of the foundation, and be reinforced in the corners of the building. The cross section of the armored belt is a rectangle or square.

Cut to desired length. Longitudinal and transverse rods are laid out on the ground, which are connected with wire at the points of contact. It is not recommended to weld the frame, since the welded frame may lose its integrity during the compaction of the poured concrete or the operation of the built bath.

The longitudinal bars are laid out and connected to each other with an overlap of about 30 cm.

The distance between the transverse and vertical bars should not exceed 50 cm. In the event that the strip foundation is up to 120 cm wide, then it makes sense to make the frame not from two, but from three longitudinal reinforcements. With a high foundation height, it is also worth increasing the number of longitudinal bars. Also, the frame is reinforced from above with U-shaped clamps, designed to increase the strength of the structure and reduce the risk of cracking of the tape base.

At the corners of the bath, the frame is additionally reinforced with reinforcement located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the horizontal rods.

The finished connected frame is installed on plastic supports. To prevent movement during the pouring process, plastic fasteners are inserted between the formwork and reinforcement.

Video - Hook knitting reinforcement

Pouring a strip foundation for a bath

The main rule is solidity, that is, everything must be poured into the formwork in one day. Therefore, if you do not have a concrete mixer, you should order ready-made concrete M200 or M400 at the factory. Be sure to make sure that the mixer with concrete can drive up to either side of the foundation of your bath.

You can prepare concrete yourself by mixing dry bulk materials in the following proportions:

• cement M400 or M500 - 1 part;
• sifted sand - 3 parts;
• crushed stone is clean without foreign inclusions - 4 or 5 parts.

Water is added to the dry mixture in such an amount that it is not too thick and does not spread.

Concrete is laid out in the formwork in layers of 20 cm, leveled with shovels, a trowel and at the same time either pierced with a reinforcement bar or compacted with a vibrodrill. This is necessary to remove existing voids (air bubbles). For the same purpose, it is important to tap the formwork walls.

The flooded foundation at night and in the rain should be covered with a film, and spilled with water during the day. When the concrete hardens (after 14 days), you can Prices for cement and base mixtures

Cement and mixture bases